Re: 24v on 12v system how?
Reply #10 –
Al,
There are quite a number of acceptable places for the sense wire (with inline fuse). Basically, any large-gauge wire directly connected to the chassis battery. Yes, this ASSUMES that connection are clean and tight. But, that is pretty easy to verify. Check voltage that the chassis battery and then at any other location that you are considering, such as the isolator (but if in OE position behind the driver's wheel, a TERRIBLE location IMO), the battery boost solenoid, etc. And certainly directly to the battery is just fine. But, I have even seen where they were on a chassis battery terminal, but the terminal to battery was in bad shape, so reading did NOT reflect actual battery voltage.
In most cases, just making sure the connections are clean and tight takes care of it. And, yes, I am a firm believer in moving all the electricals behind the drivers wheel "indoors". On our 1993 U240, there was room in the "electrical area" at the foot of the bed. Did not even have to cut any wires. On others high and on the forward wall of the engine compartment is a lot cleaner/dryer location.
On the last coach I inspected absolutely everything on that panel behind the driver's wheel was rusted/corroded and every single component and many of the wire terminals needed to be replaced. And, yes, voltage on the Javelina monitor was 17+. Poster child for "don't even start trouble shooting until everything is clean, tight and components functioning.
Starting by automatically condemning the alternator can be both expensive and frustrating! That does not mean that alternators don't fail. But make sure they are properly wired and receiving the correct "signal" before condemning them.