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Pedestal Tester

Several weeks ago we posted a link to a pedestal tester that shows several pics. of a home made tester. http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/tester_50amp.htm  Several members have ask  about a written "How To" build one of these and if we had a wiring diagram. We have been it contact with these members by P/M and have come up with "some how to notes" , a rough wiring diagram, and a shopping list.  Now this is not by any means the "bible" on how this can be done nor made to NEC codes but it is the basic stuff you will need to accomplish a product that will function at a reasonable cost. If you feel that you need to produce a tester that is to NEC standards go for it as that info is out there. Also this is the first draft and we may need to add to this after the roll out so this will be a work in progress.

Most of the needed parts can be got at a home improvement store and harbor freight type store except for the indicator light and the AC volt meters.

The "Shopping list"
1- Camco 55255-  50 amp plug or if you want to save a $ 1-Utilitech 50amp plug #4506 (which may take some modifying)
18"- #12 or #10  4 conductor THHN
1- Gampak 3/4" connector #49660
1- double gang metal box  Racor # 683 or 8192
1- double gang plug cover Racor # 907C
2- 15 amp plugs  Eaton # 5270-w
2- Harbor Freight Receptacle  tester  # 32906
2- AC voltage line meters  #12-4055  If you want to get fancy they make these in digital
1-220V indicator/pilot light with leads  #NL276WL3A-VDE  or #134581

"The Notes"
These are not in any order of importance just info that you need to accomplish this DIY project.

1.  If you buy the 50amp male plug from the home improvement store (like the one listed) you may have to take a die grinder, file, or sand paper to the top of the "U" shaped ground leg and make the top portion more rounded. Doing this will make it so the male plug will go into the female plug easier.
If you use the Camco it will save you from having to worry about the fit of the ground post. (this route will cost you a few $ more)
    1a. The ground is the round or "U"  shaped blade. (depending on your plug selection) Wire color is Green.
    1b. The neutral is the lower center blade. Wire color is White.
    1c. Line #1 is Red (one of the outside straight blades)
    1d. Line #2 is Black (the other outside straight blade)
2. Red wire goes to the positive side of 1 of the 15 amp plugs this is line #1
3. Black wire goes to the positive side of 1 of the 15 amp plugs this is line #2
4. The white wire will have to be tied to both 15 amp plugs on the neutral side.
5. The green wire will have to be tied to both 15 amp plugs on the ground screw.
6. The positive side of the 15 amp plugs are the small blade.
    6a. On the back of the 15 amp plug the positive side will be brass colored screws.
7. The neutral side of the 15 amp plugs are the large blade.
    7a. On the back of the 15 amp plug the neutral side will be silver colored screws.
8. The ground side of the 15 amp plug is the round hole.
    8a. On the back of the 15 amp plug the ground will be the green colored screw (1).
9. The 220v indicator light has to be tied to the positive side of both plug #1 and plug #2.
    9a. Hook one wire from indicator light to one of the brass colored screws on one of the 15 amp plugs.
    9b. Hook the other wire from the indicator light to one of the brass colored screws on the other 15 amp plug.
10. The indicator light can be mounted in one of the knock outs. Ours is mounted in the knock out next to where the cable comes    into the box.
11. # 12 wire will work better for your 15 amp plugs if you can find it in a 4 wire cable. I used #10- 4conductor because it is what I had at home.  If #10 is all you can find you may have to make some jumper wires that come off the 15 amp plugs and tie these wires  to your main cable with wire nuts.
12.  When you are plugged into a properly wired 50 amp pedestal receptacle you should have the indicator light shining. If you take a meter and measure between the 2 hot  15 amp plugs (small blades) you should have ~230 volts.
      12a. If you are hooked up to a "false 50 amp" the indicator light will not be on. If you measure the same 2 blades you will have 0 volts, but if you measure between a hot blade and neutral (large blades) you should have ~120 volts.
      12b. Even with a false 50 the 2 receptacle testers will be lit.
      12c. Even with a false 50 the 2 volt meters will show voltage.
13. Due to space we have to plug our meters in crisscrossed, that is one side is up side down to the other.

"The wiring diagrams"
We can't draw on the computer so Mike sketched out some wiring schematics and took some pictures of them. Best as we can do as of right now.




Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Pedestal Tester

Reply #1
Good job Mike.
For those with an interest, here's another plan and set of photos:
50 Amp RV Shore Power Tester - Google Photos
I built one of these (15 or more years ago) and I have used it faithfully ever since.  It has saved a lot of grief although it only gives you "momentary" status, whereas a PI EMS gives ongoing status and protection. 
I don't like to take the chance of plugging into a bad power situation and relying upon the PI to protect me, so I use this pedestal tester to forewarn me or prove good power before plugging in.
The first one or two that I built provided some lessons, so this one incorporates all of those lessons.  I split the duplex plugs by removing the bridge link on the side of the duplex (just as you would do on a switched plus powered outlet in a single duplex in a house), to allow the voltage and receptacle test devices to sit side by side.  If you look carefully at the linked photos, there are two wiring schematics; one for a non-separated duplex and one for a separated duplex.
HTH,
Neal

EDIT: THERE WAS AN ERROR IN THE ORIGINAL DRAWING. Thank you Mike Maynard for finding and pointing out the schematic drawing error to me (L2 shorted to Ground). The DRAWING HAS BEEN CORRECTED.  One gets a proper schematic when one downloads using the above Google Photos link.
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Neal (& Brenda) Pillsbury
'02 U320 SPEC, 4200, DGFE, Build #5984
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Re: Pedestal Tester

Reply #2
And Another
91 GV U300 Unihome 40' Build 3811
6V92TA Detroit

Re: Pedestal Tester

Reply #3
I never worried about it, had no problems with our early analog coaches. One time, which almost fried this coach, and costalotta, I went to a pedestal EMS. During the monsoons, lately, we've had power surges and outages. Either build it youself, or get a EMS.
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Re: Pedestal Tester

Reply #4
Mike & Pamela, thanks for the how-to write-up.  Always nice to make our own testers.  Clever how you found a way to fit both volt meters in a normal spaced dual outlet box.

Here is a pic of ours.

We decided to not use the stiffer #6 cable 50-amp cable between our tester and a 50-amp male plug.  Since the duplex outlets are 15/20 amp, #12 (or #14) 4-wire cables are easier to wrap and store.

Our neon light also only turn on when there is 220v at campground pedestal.


 

Re: Pedestal Tester

Reply #5
I just made Mike's tester. I was at Lowe's for other purposes, so got what I could there. They had some rather pricey testers, so I left them on the rack. My 220V light will have to go on the side. I didn't measure, so just poked out one of the small knockouts and it was too small. I lucked out yesterday and got the 50A plug for free. I got a pair of outlets for a buck from the ReStore, but had to get the rest of it new. So far I have about $5 in it. I may keep it cheap and just add the light. I already have one three-light tester and I have several VOMs. We'll see.