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Rerouting Front Heating Ducts

October 25, 2017, 03:50:40 am

When I removed my sofa, it left formally hidden wiring and heater ducts to deal with. I am using a cable run similar to the passenger side to handle the wires. That leaves me with the heater ducts.
 
Originally, there were three heater ducts. The shortest one went to the heater outlet, closest to the drawer. The two long ducts went all the way to the other side of the sofa. One exited in at the opposite end, matching the first one. The third one exited the side of the sofa, directly behind the driver seat, where it would have been mostly blocked by the seat.
 
The original ducts ran through the bottom of the end table and into the sofa. The picture shows them coming through the middle level of the end table to get them off the floor and out of the way. Since heat rises, I planned to remove one of them and shorten the others to have two heater outlets, exiting the lower and middle area in the rear of the end table.
 
We are replacing the sofa with two recliners in the area between the end table and the driver seat. To avoid the possibility of a recliner blocking both outlets, I have come up with a better idea. One of the outlets will be at the bottom area at the rear of the end table. The second one will exit the side of the kitchen counter cabinet, behind the drawers and above the electrical outlet.
 
I think two will be sufficient, since the original installation had one of its three blocked by the driver seat. If a third one was needed, the only reasonable alternative I see is to box in a duct that runs along the wall and exits behind the driver seat, facing across the room. I do not like this alternative since the recliners are already big for that area. (Although, since they are not wall huggers, some of that space would be needed to let them recline.)
 
The front furnace has two outlets in the kitchen. I am proposing another two for the living room. Will two be enough to warm the living room? Since we have the recliners, the cockpit seats will only be used while driving, when the dash heater can also provide heat.
 
I have some questions about the mechanics of closing off one of the long ducts at the air chamber box (whatever it is called - hey guys, its three in the morning as I type this). So if any of you have rerouted any of your heater ducts I would appreciate any guidance you can provide. I know others have removed their sofas; how did you handle the ducts?
 
Thanks for any and all help,
 
Trent

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Re: Rerouting Front Heating Ducts

Reply #1 – October 25, 2017, 04:54:56 am

I would box in that third duct up half way or all the way up to the front drivers seat, so that you have the same amount of heat going to the front of your rv from the front furnace.  Since this system is balanced now, as is, with the cold air return, the size, btu output of the furnace, etc, you really do not want to reduce the amount of output from this furnace.  If you shorten these 3 lines equal distance, I see no problem.  I think your plan is fine. Eliminating one, I would not.  Nice update, you'll get it done.  You will find by shortening the two other lines you will have less heat coming out the longer line going up to your front drivers area as the heat will take the path of least resistance.  Thus you might have more heat in the front area by just going along the wall half way with that 3rd line.

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Reply #2 – October 25, 2017, 08:52:02 am

The round ducting gives the most square inches in the smallest most efficient space. BUT, what about just building a rectangular ductway to the front that uses the outside wall for one side? Terminate the end with a rectangular floor duct. Maybe another somewhere along the way?
Possibilities include building in cup holders along the way, or magazine rack, or remote control, or electrical wiring for lighting or heating pad?

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Reply #3 – October 25, 2017, 09:30:39 am

I have wondered about replacing the flexible ducting with PVC piping. My thinking is that the reduced air flow resistance would result in more air flow, mixing the warm air with cool more efficiently.
We don't have a drawer under our couch, so I will be putting one in when I have a shop again, and the PVC was part of that plan.

Len

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Reply #4 – October 25, 2017, 10:40:17 pm

Clothes dryer ductwork is available that is wide and shallow. Flow matches the round output from the dryer. Might be an option to use and be able to hide.

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Reply #5 – October 26, 2017, 04:20:09 pm

I am thinking about adding a duct to the other side of the bedroom and also heat my bathroom.  Plan to use insulated flex below the floor to get to the other side. You may be able to form your own shallow duct at the top of your bays with foil covered foam board.

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Reply #6 – October 26, 2017, 08:42:03 pm

That reminds me:
 
I was just working on winterizing my RV today and noticed (again) that round  tube that holds the sewer hose for storage. Most of us do not use it. Since it goes most of the way to the other side already, you might be able to use that location to run a heater duct to the other side of the bedroom. (If it is close to the right location..)
 
Good luck,
 
Trent

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Reply #7 – October 27, 2017, 11:29:17 am

are any of those ducts cold air returns going back to the furnace? 





wantabe

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Reply #8 – October 27, 2017, 11:51:07 am

No, all three of them went to standard heater output grills. There is a very large air return grill under the stove (which is just above the furnace) in the kitchen.
 
Trent

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Reply #9 – October 27, 2017, 05:27:11 pm

This picture is from a coach for sale at FT.  Looks like they removed the driver side sofa and terminated the vents at the cabinet.
John

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Reply #10 – October 27, 2017, 06:55:22 pm

Thanks for the picture -- might be the way we go, too.
 
It is amazing how much room is in that double galley RV with the sofas removed!
 
Trent

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