Re: Add me to the ODD battery voltage issue
Reply #37 –
Good info pierce.
On startup I see around 13.85 volts max. Probably because the auto combiner has both banks together as soon as the alternator is energized by exceeding normal idle.
I notice the new LN has a updated solid state internal voltage regulator that supposedly energizes the alternator to start at lower levels.
A sensing alternator that adjusts it output to always be 14 at the engines battery bank would seem to need optima red tops which were made to handle the high battery heat and higher voltage.
If the no loss isolator and the Delco end up putting out 14 volts always to both banks the house side at minimum in summer is being at least .75 volts overcharged.
In a non sense system you could add load to reduce the volts. In a sense system if hooked up the alternator turns itself up.
The LN has large heat sinks and a large external fan to cool it at high under hood temps and low rpms as far as I know.
Hence the use by Gillig as they built the Gillig Phantom intracity transit busses for many years.
I would test this and after the batteries are fully charged the Delco is still putting out 14volts I would disconnect the sense wire.
Their Delco site shows 13.5 without the sense. As 13.6 was the voltage for long drives that would slow the overcharging damage.
Factory used the LN and mk gels and redtops as this combo lasted longer. Lots of 10-12 lives reported here for this exact setup.
House side charging on inverter for the last 20 years has been temp controlled.
But not the alternator unless you had a link 2000R panel on a old freedom 25 for the engine side.
Too much work and parts when redtops handle the overcharge and heat when they moved the batteries into the engine bay when the unicoach was built in 95.
Temp controlled engine battery charging had the alternator down to almost 13 volts. Buddy had to disconnect the engine batteries temp sensor