RV frig replacement

Topic: RV frig replacement (Read 1912 times) previous topic - next topic

RV frig replacement

March 22, 2017, 05:33:25 pm

Hi,

Replacing my old rv fridge (electric/gas) in my U280 with a residential. What can I expect when taking the old one out? Will there be a gas line to cap, etc? Not looking for cabinet modifications- just the mechanical issues that may get overlooked and any "must do's" from those that BTDT

Thanks in advance.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #1 – March 22, 2017, 05:47:30 pm

Yes, you will certainly have propane line and 12 VDC to disconnect and cap off. But, there is more to a residential installation than just that. Decisions on what to do with lower access vent door, roof vent, all three dimension of the residential refrig, inverter (whether pure sine wave is needed or MSW is adequate), battery bank size, etc.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #2 – March 22, 2017, 07:00:34 pm

We used a flare plug to cap off our gas line and left gas line in place (no sealant with cap). Fridge required a way to fasten it down in place, a way to keep doors closed while traveling, and a way to air-seal the edge of the fridge to the cabinet. Our 10 cu ft Whirlpool has been in place for 5 years of trouble-free use and frost-free living. Just be careful, as ice cream can now be kept frozen. The propane fridge rear cooling unit can be removed from cold box to make it easier to remove old fridge through narrow openings.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #3 – March 22, 2017, 07:29:29 pm

Are you a full timer or an occasional user? Full timers seem to prefer a residential refrig. If not, a replacement RV refrig would be less of a problem.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #4 – March 22, 2017, 07:31:38 pm

More a matter of how much you dry camp.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #5 – March 22, 2017, 09:19:27 pm

Rarely dry camp. Will be living in it about 40% May-Sept.

RV fridge lots of $$$ also compared to a residential.

Thanks for all the replies!!

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #6 – March 22, 2017, 11:15:54 pm

Being partially a closet prepped the absorption refer is a necessary item. No it does not work as well as a home unit.

My guru buddy mentioned venting the house refer into the inside of the coach is a problem for high temp desert users.

He vents them if possible into the bays.

Our dometic has a compressor with an on off switch.

And a chest refer/freezer underneath.

We do have an option on electric use and volume.

Both on seems roughly what a house refer consumes.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #7 – March 22, 2017, 11:48:16 pm

We put in a Samsung. Great choice.

Another Samsung installed

I spent time making sure I had the maximum possible depth available, well worth the effort.

I vented it out the original roof vent. The side wall vent is sealed up but can be opened for access. The refrigerator is not sealed at the bottom or at the sides. My roof vent opening can be mostly closed in the winter and mostly open in the summer. The Samsumg has good feet under the front edge. These are adequate to hold the refrigerator in place if they fit into pockets. The correct sized metric bolt can be used to physically lock it in place. Ours has never moved in more than three years. Our Samsung has a five year warranty.

Do not drill into the case or doors anywhere, it could void your warranty. Use VHB tap for the freezer lock. Keep,the door locks as simple as possible.

It is a great upgrade. If you are not a hardcore boondocker it will work well. You may want to add an extra battery for more overnight duration. See how it works for you first.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #8 – March 23, 2017, 01:57:05 am

Yes, the RV (gas/electric) replacement fridges are costly,
We are going to replace our Dometic 1492 with a similar-sized Norcold. we are looking at somewhere around 5 coach bucks including cabinetry mods.
It was difficult finding one that is 36" wide, but we have room for the 70" height
We plan on 80 to 90% of the usage as camping in the puckerbrush.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #9 – March 23, 2017, 11:06:14 am

I and my guru buddy are not notcold fans. Keep looking IMO

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #10 – March 23, 2017, 12:29:02 pm

Replacing the fridge was one of the easiest project I had done on my former FT-U225.
It can be difficult to move in the new one to install. It depends on the fridge you chose.
To take out the old one just slowly and carefully start disconnecting, capping and removing, part by part as much as possible.
Where i took my time most was the researching and choosing the fridge. It had to meet our needs (hard ice cream and it also had to be easy to install and if and when something went wrong it could be replaced easily. The way I had done it that it could be replaced in home depot parking lot under 45 min. I had instated a dedicated small inverter for the residential fridge Xantrex 806-1210 PROwatt 1000 SW Inverter

All worked great without any issues for 2 years ( I sold the FT) I predict it will work for many more years.

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Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #11 – March 23, 2017, 01:10:29 pm

Quote from: Caflashbob – March 23, 2017, 11:06:14 am

I and my guru buddy are not notcold fans. Keep looking IMO

True, they as well as any RV fridge have issues, but Dometic no longer makes a 36" wide model.(1492)
We have Crosley's straight propane fridges @ the ranch,they are over 50 year old and work good with a minimal maintenance required. Unfortunately they no longer make LP units, just residential ones.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #12 – March 23, 2017, 06:13:43 pm

We replaced our refer with the same model Roger used. We milled wider trim to cover the opening. Installed the refer in the middle of the opening. Did have to remove the lower cabinet doors and frame and rearrange the stuff that was in there, but consider the upgrade GOOD. A fofum member installed a side by side 36" samsung with water and ice in the door - fit width wise but also had to remove the lower cabinet stile and rail. He has not looked back either. If someone is installing this for you, make sure it is installed low enough that the door opens under the sliding door frame.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #13 – March 23, 2017, 08:36:37 pm

We replaced our dead rv refrigerator with a residential shortly after we got our coach. I removed everything that was in the way (table, table base, chairs, grab handle, etc.) before starting on the refrigerator. Removed the doors, shelves, etc. first, disconnected the power, then turned off the propane, disconnected and capped the propane line. Another guy helped me haul the old unit out. The residential unit we put in was slightly taller than what we took out, so I had to cut out the floor of the refrigerator space. I put in some blocks to cover up the holes in the floor and raise up the new refrigerator a bit. A couple of screws held the new refrigerator in place.

One of our requirements was that the new refrigerator had to come in through the door. I know that others have removed the windshield or a window in order to bring one in, but I didn't want to go through that. We ended up with an apartment-sized one that was able to come through the door with the refrigerator door removed. Again, one other guy and I put it in.

A year ago we finally decided exactly what we wanted for cabinets around the refrigerator, then had Larry at Foretravel build custom cabinets around the refrigerator. We suggested that the refrigerator sit on the floor of the coach with a cabinet above it, but he talked us into a bottom cabinet, very much like what we originally had. The difference is that the new refrigerator has more interior space, but is narrower than the original, so we were able to have some cupboards on the left side of the refrigerator.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #14 – March 23, 2017, 09:17:04 pm

David, Your install is really attractive. (I got a peek at it!) Others on the Forum might benefit from your project. How about a pic? Thanks. P

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #15 – March 23, 2017, 09:50:30 pm

David,

Good details about removing the old 'fridge.

Carter-

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #16 – March 24, 2017, 01:06:38 am

Quote from: Carol & Scott – March 23, 2017, 06:13:43 pm

. If someone is installing this for you, make sure it is installed low enough that the door opens under the sliding door frame.

I didn't know quite what you were referring to.... so went out to the coach and looked.... Thankyou for the hint!
btw, MOT will be doing the install and cabinet rework.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #17 – March 24, 2017, 01:40:41 am

Some times when the lower cabinet doors are removed and the style and rail of the cabinet removed a support floor is often built. In our case I placed 2 x 4s on edge and put a 3/4" piece of plywood on top of the 2 x 4s. The refer sits on this floor. If you have a pocket door close to the refer the refer door may hit the ceiling trim piece that covers the pocket door sliding mechanism. Try to get full swing of the refer doors so you can get the drawers and shelves out for cleaning.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #18 – March 24, 2017, 02:12:36 am

Under Media I have a "Res Fridge" album with few pictures of my install in to our previous FT U-225

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #19 – March 24, 2017, 08:25:59 am

Every install will be a little different. One thing to consider - leave some way to access the fridge power cord and wall socket, so you can unplug the fridge if necessary. Larry (FOT remod shop) installed a (inside) sliding door over the outside vent opening. Down - it seals off the opening, preventing air and water intrusion. Up (held by magnetic catch) - we can reach the plug. Came in handy when we had our PV system installed. For safety, the techs had to disconnect all AC and DC power on the coach for several days, but we were able to plug the fridge directly into a shop extension cord, thereby keeping our beer and frozen pizza cold.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #20 – March 24, 2017, 09:39:06 am

Quote from: WC7610 – March 22, 2017, 05:33:25 pm

Hi,

Replacing my old rv fridge (electric/gas) in my U280 with a residential. What can I expect when taking the old one out? Will there be a gas line to cap, etc? Not looking for cabinet modifications- just the mechanical issues that may get overlooked and any "must do's" from those that BTDT

Thanks in advance.

In response to the question of mechanical issues, be aware that the Samsung that many of us have chosen is a great choice but it does have an extra "hump" on the top. In order to make sure it fits, this has to be accounted for in your cabinet dimensions.

The solution for me was to build small ramps into the bottom deck so that that the fridge rolled back and then, once the hump passed the front of the cabinet, the rear wheels rolled up the ramp. The front is supported with small blocks that are added after the fridge is in place. This raises the fridge to fill the gap between it and the cabinet face, without the need for additional trim work. The fridge is then secured into the new deck with brackets at the front bottom and into the ceiling with angle iron brackets at the top. The angle iron is secured to the top of the fridge with VHB tape before rolling it into the cabinet, then screwed into wood blocks that have been bolted into the aluminum ceiling frame. This requires a couple of dry fits to place the blocks/brackets in exactly the right place, and a very long socket extension for the final installation, but it works very well.

A temporary platform in front of the opening, so that you can roll the fridge in and out easily, makes the whole operation much easier. We were lucky that we did not have the interference problem with the nearby pocket door, as others have mentioned. If you have that, then raising your fridge may not be an option.

You can see most of this in the following post:

Yet another Samsung conversion

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #21 – March 24, 2017, 11:41:55 am

The top of the Samsung we installed (19 cu ft French Door) had no hump on the top. Sitting on a level floor the refrigerator leans back slightly to help with keeping doors closed, I suppose. I made two wheel tracks (measure carefully, the front and rear wheels were not the same distance apart) that rose towards the back so that the refrigerator face was parallel to the cabinet face when it was installed. The front feet should sit on something, they are what adjusts the door fit and hold the refrigerator in place. I had these feet go into recesses in the front trim piece to allow for the adjustment and to lock the refrigerator in place. Those plus a strap on the back side holds ours in place. I made an insulated sliding door for the side access cover hole.

I moved the 110v outlet for the refrigerator (landline or inverter powered) under the kitchen cabinets behind the drawers which make unplugging it and left more room behind the refrigerator. I also added a switch to that outlet to turn off the refrigerator. They have no on/off switch.

If you are doing it yourself, measure and plan carefully. It is best to have the new refrigerator on hand to make actual measurements. It is something you can do yourself as many of us have done. Every coach and every model of refrigerator is different as will be your installation.

Re: RV frig replacement

Reply #22 – October 26, 2017, 07:42:01 pm

Will the Dometic NDA 1402 go out the dude window of my u-320?

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