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Topic: Engine Door Repair (Read 643 times) previous topic - next topic

Engine Door Repair

Not sure if this should be in renovations as it is just a repair. 

For about a year now have had a crack in the fiberglass at the lower drivers side support (the metal piece that rests on a rubber covered bolt when closed). After every drive it would jump off the bolt with the upper latch left to support that side.  Removed the bracket, repaired the crack which was at the top of the metal bracket with polyester resin.  Welded on a piece of steel 3/16 x 2 x  4" for more support.  Forgot to take before and after pictures of the bracket.
The pop rivets as installed by FT had some spacer washers between the fiberglass and bracket (2 washers on front rivets and 1 on rear). There was some black rubber caulk to fill the gap edges.  When I replaced the bracket, I used an epoxy mixed with a filler to a stiff mixture to fill the gap.  I reused the washers by hot melt gluing them to the metal bracket.  I put new pop rivets in the original holes for alignment,  but did not pop them until the epoxy had hardened.  Clamped the bracket in place and removed the epoxy that squeezed out before it hardened.  Thinking I should do the same with the passenger side before it develops a crack. 
Edit the 3 middle pictures in reverse order.
Jerry Whiteaker former owner 96 U270  36' #4831 Austin,TX-Owner Mods LCD TV w/front cabinet rebuild - LCD TV bedroom - Dual Central AC, either can cool coach w 30 amp - Skylights at roof AC openings - Drop ceiling for ducting of AC - Shower skylight white gelcoat/wood/epoxy frame - Air Springs/Shocks replaced - 2014 CRV - 8K Home Solar - Chevy Volt

 

Re: Engine Door Repair

Reply #1
Looks good Jerry, nice job. Now the test of time ^.^d
Andy & Eileen
MONTROSE COLORADO
1992 U300  40' 6V92 TA
2016 4 Runner
1998 Jeep Grand cherokee

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee) Build # 4135 Skp# 122921