Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Shock replacement dead end. (Read 1309 times) previous topic - next topic

Shock replacement dead end.

Am in LTVA Quartzsite.  After querying the forum for advice, I bit the bullet and bought shocks from FOT.  Price incl. shipping was practically the same as other vendors.  Started the R&R process last week, starting at the rear....raised up the coach and put in frame safety struts (11" long 2" black pipe), and juiced down the bolts with my atf/acetone mix several times.  Easiest access was the rear/rears through the battery door and opposite door on driver side.  Took everything I had with a 2' breaker bar and a 2' pipe extension to bust loose the nuts on the original shock bolts...getting old sux.  So, those 2 shocks are in and road ready and yes the original Koni's were toast.  Had zero luck getting the front/rears to budge, so moved on to the fronts, hoping access would be better.  Not even close there either, so I gave up and started looking for alternatives.

Got an estimate from Everett's in Q to do the R&R labor on the remaining 6.  $900+.  Not in my budget right now, and guessing FOT labor would be about the same.

I'd still like to tackle this myself if possible. 

Questions for the wise:  Anyone removed side wheel panels from a U320 to get access to the shock bolts?  Is it logical or even feasible without breaking a lot of stuff?  Can't find how to's on doing this on a 2001 model.

I did not attempt heating the nuts with a torch due to lack of access.  That is an option I guess.

I also looked into a HF Earthquake XT 20v rattle gun for this task as well as having on hand if needed for wheels.  Anyone think it'll work?

Any other suggestions?  Thanks in advance and Happy New Year!  Woody.
2001 4010 U320 build #5865 "Bluto-d-Bus" since 09/18
2006 Honda Element ESP Toad
Full timing since 2016 in Western MT
Copilot: Sitka
1975 GMC 260 Avion: sold

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #1 –
There have been several here that have pulled the side panels, to replace their shocks and air bags.

I have removed the side cover strip and recaulked in the past.  It is not too hard.
1998 U320 40'
2005 GMC Yukon
MC# 17609

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #2 –
I used earthquake for the ones I could reach  went to Harbor freight and bought the air impact for the others I think it might've been the palm size .Saturate with penetrating oil let it sit overnight before you begin averaged about an hour each one with the helper

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #3 –
I have a mechanic in the Los Angeles area, near Azusa, who did my shocks and air bags for a reasonable price without removing any panels. Just a lot of swearing. PM if you want his info.
Tom Lang K6PG (originally  KC6UEC)
and Diane Lang
2003 38 U295 build 6209
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit Ecodiesel
still have tow-ready 2006 Acura MDX 
Temple City, California
Motorcade 16681 California Chapter President
SKP 16663 member of SKP Park of the Sierra, Coarsegold California
FMCA F071251
Retired electrical and electronic engineer

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #4 –
Don't know what LTVA is ,if your at the place where the other Foretravels are try and borrow a impact for now.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #5 –
Quote from: John44 –
Don't know what LTVA is ,if your at the place where the other Foretravels are try and borrow a impact for now.

LTVA = long term visitor area. 
1998 U320 40'
2005 GMC Yukon
MC# 17609

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #6 –
I did mine 5 or 6 years ago.  I don't think I had to remove the fenders, but may have, poor memory.  I did take off the fenders to replace the air bags.  I have an older coach with the trim strips that must come off first to get to the screws underneath holding on the fenders.  The small part of the fender at the top of the wheel will break you are not careful, helper good to have.  Like others have said let the penetrating fluid work for a few days.  Spray more than once..
Jerry Whiteaker former owner 96 U270  36' #4831 Austin,TX-Owner Mods LCD TV w/front cabinet rebuild - LCD TV bedroom - Dual Central AC, either can cool coach w 30 amp - Skylights at roof AC openings - Drop ceiling for ducting of AC - Shower skylight white gelcoat/wood/epoxy frame - Air Springs/Shocks replaced - 2014 CRV - 8K Home Solar - Chevy Volt

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #7 –
Don't know if you have enough room to reach the bolt or nut with a drill bit & drill but long ago I gave up trying to break hard rusted shock bolts & nuts loose after my wrench slipped off a top nut on my Chrysler New Yorker and I put my other hand down onto the sharp inside edge of a hubcap (6 stitches) as I was falling away.
Went home from the hospital, stopped and got a six pack of Pabst, then home and drank three shorties. Held a center punch on the nut flat while the DW swung the hammer. Drilled progressively larger until same size as the bolt thread. Whacked the nut/bolt with the hammer and down came the rusted part. Simple to drive the rest of the bolt out.
You might have to use a long drill bit--usually called a pulley drill--in order to reach up to the bolt.
Nitehawk,  Demolition Lady, & our NEW master, Zippy the speeding BB cat.
1989 Grand Villa 36' ORED
Oshkosh chassis, 8.2 DD V8
2006 Saturn Vue AWD

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #9 –
I recently replaced all air bags and the front shocks on my FT.  All were held on with steel lock nuts which are always tight until off.
I spent a lot of time wrenching the air bag lock nuts off for that reason, so when I reassembled them I used regular nuts with lock washers that are much easier to get on and off.  I did not remove the fenders to do the job.

As for the shocks I used an pneumatic Earthquake 1/2" drive and it worked fine, but I don't know if there's room for it to do the rear ones.  When I remounted the new Koni FSDs I used nylock nuts as they don't require as much torque to tighten/loosen and I wanted to be sure the Earthquake would tighten the hell out of them, as I had one that wasn't tight and the whole front end of the coach sounded like it was falling apart.  I spent the better part of a year trying to find the cause and finally with a tip from  forum member JCUS I found that one top lock nut was galled and not as tight as it should be.

Break out that Earthquake XT20 and you might be surprised.

Good luck, keep us posted and Happy New Year!

P.S.  None of the bolts/nuts were rusty on mine. 




 

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #10 –
After seeing Stump's M18 recommendation, I went back and looked at all the reviews and youtoob videos I could find of the Dewalt, HF, and Milwaukee battery impact guns.  The Milwaukee 2767-22 ended up as my pick based on Stump's rec., size, battery duration and torque and particularly one video of a guy blasting off 47/48 1-1/4" lug nuts off a rusty old Terex wheel loader before the battery died!!!  The socket was red hot!  Amazon had the -22 combo kit with gun, 2 batteries, charger and case for a good price.  It's on it's way to Q.  Looks like it will fit on all except for the forward 2 rear top shock bolts.  Will give a report next year.  Thanks for all the inputs, guys and now I'll have a wheel lug nut gun JIC.  HNY, Woody.
2001 4010 U320 build #5865 "Bluto-d-Bus" since 09/18
2006 Honda Element ESP Toad
Full timing since 2016 in Western MT
Copilot: Sitka
1975 GMC 260 Avion: sold

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #11 –
This stuff is amazing. Used it on my air bags, among other things:

16 oz Aerosol Can Lubricant 91672972 - MSC
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #12 –
Is that a new and improved PB blaster? Old blaster work awesome.
Old Phart Phred, EIEIO
89 GV ored 36' #3405 300 hp cat 3208 ATAAC side radiator, mountain tamer exhaust brake

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #13 –
Quote from: Old phart phred –
Is that a new and improved PB blaster? Old blaster work awesome.
New
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #14 –
Great Give us a real world test drive on it!. I have not bought one yet but have been researching it for awhile now. Mobile mechanics I know swear by it.
91 GV U300 Unihome 40' Build 3811
6V92TA Detroit

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #15 –
How has the New Impact Wrench performed?
91 GV U300 Unihome 40' Build 3811
6V92TA Detroit
 

Re: Shock replacement dead end.

Reply #16 –
The Milwaukee 2767 is a brute. With a deep socket it fit between the shock nut and frame on the fronts but not the rears.  Had to remove the passenger side fenders to access the bolts (couldn't put a hand on the right front/front shocks bolts due to wiring and plumbing running up between the air bag & the step well. In the rear, put the gun's power to a 12" extension and impact socket on the bolt and combo wrench on the inner nut.  Piece of cake.  Took a couple hours to do all 4 fronts, including fender R&R.

The power of this tool is mind blowing.  Set to level 4, it knocked off all the nuts almost instantly.  Used level 3 to put em back on with a 1 second torque burst each.  Even at the $450 price tag, saved me twice that in labor to have the job done at a shop.    Money well spent as I now have a wheel nut wrench if I ever need it, or to take rusty bolts off a battleship!

The Koni's made a huge difference in the ride on my 300 mile escape drive north outa Quartzsite yesterday.  Much less steering wheel chatter, and almost no road feel in the seat.  Happy camper.  Thanks for all the advice from the forum.  Woody.

Quote from: stump –
How has the New Impact Wrench performed?
2001 4010 U320 build #5865 "Bluto-d-Bus" since 09/18
2006 Honda Element ESP Toad
Full timing since 2016 in Western MT
Copilot: Sitka
1975 GMC 260 Avion: sold