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Topic: Pump Switch (Read 2807 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #50
..., is there a practical limit to the number of momentary switches that can be used for one latching relay? I know there are two switches for the central light fixture in our coach, but I haven't looked closely at how they are wired.
Don
Don,
I just read this thread, hence the delayed reply. There's no limit to the number of N.O. momentary switches for this, and like, circuits. They're wired in parallel.
Greg & Cathy
2000 U320 4010 DGFE Build #5650
Had: 1999 Tradewinds 7370

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #51
Thanks Greg, that is what I figured but I was confused by the pictures showing two of these relays not realizing that the U320's have a relay for the solenoid fill valve, as well as one for water pump. Ours U270 has a manual water fill valve.
Don
Don,
I just read this thread, hence the delayed reply. There's no limit to the number of N.O. momentary switches for this, and like, circuits. They're wired in parallel.
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Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #52
We have another latching relay in (near) the bathroom.  A switch in the bedroom and one in the bathroom turn on a ceiling light in the bathroom.  You can hear it clunck.  These are a good way to have multiple switches to control one thing. The part that makes these circuits a bit hard to figure out is that the switches close a path to ground.  The power switching is at the relay.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #53
and latching relays consume power themselves 100% of the time they are "latched" - so I tend to avoid the big oight in the main salon and the latched relay light in the bathroom, since there are so many other ligths in the coach.  quick entry and exit, that latched switch by the door gets used, but if not connected to shore power, we don't use the "latched" lights or the microwave counter light (cant find an LED for it, only halogen)
Tim Fiedler    2025 LTV Unity MBL on Order
2000 Chevy Tracker 2 Door Convertible 4WD Now lifted 4.5"
1985 Citroen 2CV6 Charleston
Murphy Rebel on wheels with 175HP Titan
Cessna P337
1980 48' Westport MY (!/4 Share)

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #54

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Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #55
and latching relays consume power themselves 100% of the time they are "latched"...
UNLESS they are magnetic latching relays.  Magnetic latching draws no current in "ON" or "OFF" state, only draws current when changing state of switch.  I'm using a Blue Sea 7701 ML Solenoid in place of the conventional "boost" solenoid on our coach.

Do they make "lighter duty" ML relays for applications like controlling lights or water pumps?  Yes, they do!  See below for one example:

Magnetic Latching Relays
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #56
We have another latching relay in (near) the bathroom.  A switch in the bedroom and one in the bathroom turn on a ceiling light in the bathroom.  You can hear it clunck.  These are a good way to have multiple switches to control one thing. The part that makes these circuits a bit hard to figure out is that the switches close a path to ground.  The power switching is at the relay.
Our coach has, at  least, 4: The 3 mentioned, and one for the 3 lights in the dining/galley/front hallway, operated from stepwell and galley switches. Great to hear these switches are sinking to ground. I hadn't gotten around to checking that, but it will save me from having to pull wires for some LED dimmers that switch, via sinking. Thanks for the info, Roger. ^.^d   
Greg & Cathy
2000 U320 4010 DGFE Build #5650
Had: 1999 Tradewinds 7370

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #57
Getting back to the original topic...
I just received the pump today and will be going out to the coach to install. I have a question, though...
My fresh water tank is full. When I disconnect the existing pump, what do I do at the inlet? Can I shut off supply at the plumbing manifold, or is there another approach? I need a reply very soon, as it is raining, and a perfect day for this project. Thanks
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #58
Glenn, as I recall there is a valve on the forward wall of the pump bay to shut off the water from the tank to the pump.  Get a bunch of towels anyway.  There will be some spillage.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #59
Thanks, Roger
I tried to bypass the pressure switch, hoping THAT was the problem. No go.
Looking at old pump, on the left, looks like corrosion at head of pump. I'll be taking it apart, just for grins, but think the old pump seized up. Will report back later
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #60
Just to make sure, connect the new pump to the electric wiring and run it momentarily without plumbing it in to make sure the breaker does not trip. It can run dry. THEN if it does not, plumb it.
1994 U280, Build 4490
Deming, NM.

 

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #61
It was the pump
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT