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Topic: Storage of coach (Read 1438 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Storage of coach

Reply #21 –
Quote from: Lt403 –
Why do you have to run the gen with at least 1/2 it's rated capacity?
Not just evaporating the motor end water off of the oil, but heating up the gen end to keep the windings moisture free. Most standy gens have heater on the gen end to do this.

Re: Storage of coach

Reply #22 –
I keep my coach in an unheated barn, with 50 amp service.  I do not winterize, keep a full load of water and treated fuel, and keep basement heat on with the 110 AH heating element on, along with diesel burner engaged, if needed.  When you say not to run the engine unless I plan to drive it, why wouldn't idling at 1200 rpm for a good period of time suffice in bringing the engine up to operating temperature?
Mike

Re: Storage of coach

Reply #23 –
Quote from: Yetch –
I keep my coach in an unheated barn, with 50 amp service.  I do not winterize, keep a full load of water and treated fuel, and keep basement heat on with the 110 AH heating element on, along with diesel burner engaged, if needed.  When you say not to run the engine unless I plan to drive it, why wouldn't idling at 1200 rpm for a good period of time suffice in bringing the engine up to operating temperature?
Mike

I found this attached answer from Cummins.

I believe the problem with idling at 1,200, is that the engine is still not under load.  I remember the retail company I worked for use to have a policy (over ten years ago) to idle all the used and new rv inventory on Fridays to insure all would start on the weekend.  That ended when a few expensive repairs were attributed to this policy.

As pointed out running generator once a month is recommended under load of AC or such.

Re: Storage of coach

Reply #24 –
Quote from: Yetch –
When you say not to run the engine unless I plan to drive it, why wouldn't idling at 1200 rpm for a good period of time suffice in bringing the engine up to operating temperature?
Mike

Mike,

No way to get the OIL, not just coolant up to operating temperature except under load.  So running it without load will just add moisture to the crankcase/engine.

Re: Storage of coach

Reply #25 –
There is no reason to start the engine while in storage. 1200 RPM is fine and won't cause any ring deposits but you need almost 190 degrees of coolant AND oil temperature over a longer period of time as condensation will occur and only when the coolant and oil temperature are above this, will evaporation take place. Condensation mixed with products of combustion will form acids and other forms of contamination. Oils have additives to combat this but not if the engine is fast idled too many times.

In other words, you would have to fast idle the engine for a very long period of time to evaporate the moisture formed while the engine was warming to operating temperature.

Diesel engines and their fuel can sit for a very long time and not suffer any ill effects. I have a 500 gallon diesel tank for our tractor and generator. It's been sitting with only a little used each year for over 20 years. For a motorhome or car, diesel may go out of emission requirements after a while but the power and mileage will be the same years later.

I never run the U300's generator but with California's blackouts during our fires, I just hit glow for a few seconds and it ran nicely for 10 days.

Pierce

Re: Storage of coach

Reply #26 –
OK, well thanks for the info.  Just went out to refuel for the winter, and ran around for 40 miles or so.  So I guess I will not run the engine, and keep heat in the coach and basement, along with a battery conditioner on the coach batteries.
Mike

Re: Storage of coach

Reply #27 –
Quote from: Yetch –
OK, well thanks for the info.  Just went out to refuel for the winter, and ran around for 40 miles or so.  So I guess I will not run the engine, and keep heat in the coach and basement, along with a battery conditioner on the coach batteries.
Mike

Always check your battery conditioner with a volt meter.  I have the following NOCO 7200, which I do like, as it will charge both my lifepo4 200ah batteries as well as my agm batteries,  including my 200 AH rv starting battery pair.

I just had to request a rma as it is floating at 14.6 after saying it's charge is full, two days after charging my start batteries.  I was not happy with that, however,  I appreciate the other features, such as the 23.6 supply mode, and the $100 price.  I will give them a second chance.

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Charges 12V & 24V lead-acid batteries (including AGM and more) and 12V Lithium. Repairs desulfated batteries, charges in cold conditions, and has a 13.6V Supply mode.

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Re: Storage of coach

Reply #28 –
Quote from: Yetch –
OK, well thanks for the info.  Just went out to refuel for the winter, and ran around for 40 miles or so.  So I guess I will not run the engine, and keep heat in the coach and basement, along with a battery conditioner on the coach batteries.
Mike
Good idea to wash the total undercarriage down before storing it for the winter if if has been driven in the snow or roads that have been treated. Heating can cause high humidity in areas where moisture may be trapped and accelerate the corrosion process.  Our car business had a year contract with a car wash in Germany. Every night, we would drive any car that had be driven that day though the car wash where a special spray would clean the bottom as well as the rest of the car. I remember the salt trucks feeding a spinning wheel that threw it all over each lane on the Autobahn.

At about 25 nighttime degrees is when I stick light bulbs or lizard pads in a couple of spots in the U300. Good to drain the lines but a bulb by the water pump is a good idea if it's really cold.

Good article about heated garages here: How to prevent your car from becoming a hot mess - The Globe and Mail

Pierce