Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Moving Generator control components (Read 771 times) previous topic - next topic

Moving Generator control components

I'm planning to move the ES-52 controller, relays, latching relay, and on/off & run/stop switches to a new box in the front driver side basement next to the generator radiator.  It's almost impossible to see into the box and work on anything even with the generator pulled out.  Moving these will also eliminate the vibrations from sitting on top of the generator.  I've been having an intermittent problem where the dash switch and indicators don't work. 
I've been collecting all of the parts that I'll need to do this. 
I'll tag each wire then run new wires from the generator over to the new box.  These are the engine speed sensor, start, crank, etc.  Then I'll run new wires for the dash start/stop switch and run/fault indicator lights.
The only thing I'm unsure of is how the remote start/stop switch connects to the switch on the control box.  Does the dash switch go through the BCM-12 auto start module?
 I think it hooks up to the latching relay.  I just plan to duplicate the wiring when I move all of this.
Am I overlooking anything?

Re: Moving Generator control components

Reply #1 –
I made the same change to my "99 ten years ago.  My primary reason for moving these electronics was because of a couple of vibration-caused failures.  I drew up this wiring diagram when I moved the boxes.  Because of space constraints I had to mount the system indicator lights at 90 degrees to the compartment opening.  Therefore I added the list of failure modes on the white label. 

I made the effort to run the high voltage AC lines in a separate conduit from the low voltage DC lines to eliminate the possibility of interference. 

I did leave the two main circuit breakers in the box on top of the generator. 

It has worked well for me and I have had no more failures of the control board since I moved it. 

Richard

Re: Moving Generator control components

Reply #2 –
Here is the wiring diagram. 

Re: Moving Generator control components

Reply #3 –
Thanks for the tips.  I'm not planning to move the 120 VAC stuff, just the 12 VDC components. 
 

Re: Moving Generator control components

Reply #4 –
Almost finished.  Drove up to a buddy's shop last week where I could work inside.  Got everything done over 2 days.  Had a great visit, neither of us had seen anyone other than family since March.  More work and more difficult than I expected.  But maybe I'm just getting older and the old bones don't like crawling around under the coach.
Still want to mount a new small box on top of the new box to mount the latching relay inside.  I'll finish that later this week when I can get a couple more conduit nuts.
Got the inside switch and run and fault lights working again.  Found some broken wires on a second modular plug behind the generator. 
Also went under the coach to find an air leak that I could hear when I got back home and in storage.  Raised and blocked the coach and found one of the tank drains was partially open.  Must have bumped it when I was under there before.  But both drain valves are leaking around the stems so I ordered a couple remote pull tank drains to replace those with.  Also found a fitting and gauge with small leaks.  Ordered those and I'll replace all of that later this week.