Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Remove engine A/C? (Read 757 times) previous topic - next topic

Remove engine A/C?

If the engine A/C pump doesn't work, and the A/C on the dash isn't up to the task, why not remove the A/C pump?
Doesn't leaving it on (on our 8.2L DD turbo-charged V8) just let it be a problem waiting to happen?
If the fan belt breaks then it could go into the radiator or tangle with the alternator belts creating even more problems.
I don't know if the A/C belt also drives the water pump or if it does nothing else.
I imagine that, since the pump is just idling, that it doesn't draw much horsepower, but just thinking about the damage that could occur.

Re: Remove engine A/C?

Reply #1 –
Easier to cut the belt if the ac compressor is all that it pulls.

Re: Remove engine A/C?

Reply #2 –
 I took mine off and added a 1 wire GM alternator. 

Re: Remove engine A/C?

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Protech Racing –
I took mine off and added a 1 wire GM alternator. 
That is the next project. I want to supply the engine batteries with the additional alternator and put a bank of four fans in front of the side radiator. In case of a belt/pump/motor failure, you are normally stuck. With electric fans, you could drive to safety where you could work on it or if driving a bit slower, drive most anywhere. With a GV,  you could also put a couple of aluminum radiators up front that might get a coach up to normal speed without the hydraulic system. Since we don't use the dash air, there is lots of room up front for radiators.

Getting rid of the AC compressor on a 2 cycle Detroit means you can easily install the block heater where it is supposed to go and where Wanderlodge/Bluebird puts theirs.

The Lucas alternator quickly failed on our sailboat in Japan. I purchased three single wire alternators to replace the Lucas. It had so many wires, it took me hours to snip off all the unneeded wires without cutting oil/temp senders. The Lucas came with the boat and only was a couple of months old.

Pierce

Re: Remove engine A/C?

Reply #4 –
Ah Lucas the "Prince of Darkness"

Re: Remove engine A/C?

Reply #5 –
Quote from: Olde English –
Ah Lucas the "Prince of Darkness"
Imagine a voltage regulator with 6 or more terminals, a wire clip holding the top on and a monthly failure rate. All the wires were covered in fabric and after a couple of years, they faded so you could no longer identify them. My AH Sprite had a fire under the dash and I had to replace the entire wiring harness. SU fuel pumps best mounted where you could hit them with a stick when they stopped. Honda bikes always had to ride up front  at night as the Lucas lights were dim with the bad ground look.

Foretravel did a nice job under the dash with all the 12V wiring. Too bad they didn't make a diagram where all the switches are and what they do. Different guy must have done the Romex as it's not in the same league.

Pierce

Re: Remove engine A/C?

Reply #6 –
I pulled it off and love the open look.  Can't wait to remove the useless condenser coil and AC lines to the front.  Good riddance to finicky junk.

Re: Remove engine A/C?

Reply #7 –
We drive west bound in the afternoons at summer desert temps and the additional dash cooling on top of the rearward mounted ducted roof airs on our 97 really works well. 

Without the roof airs the dash is good for 90 or a little more.

With the airs on I can cut back the dash air quite a bit,  plus have the option to cool the front exactly as needed.

Non desert. Non westbound into the sun driving not as important
 

Re: Remove engine A/C?

Reply #8 –
Dash A/C vents on the driver side in GVs blows right on yer knees.  Knees freeze while the rest of you sweats.  Worthless.  :thumbsdown:

That's why I don't care that ours don't work.