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Topic: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting  (Read 579 times) previous topic - next topic

Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

On my '99, the isolator and solenoids are mounted to steel plates. The inboard ends of the plates are bolted to a 1/4" by 1" steel strap. The strap is bolted at the bottom to a steel cross beam and screwed at the top to the firewall. The strap is fabricated to provide (I think) a 2" clearance for the insulation. However, the outboard (driver's side) ends of the two plates are angled forward and screwed directly to the firewall with no standoff. I expected there would be standoffs at the outboard ends to avoid crushing the insulation. I have attached a photo of the assembly temporarily held in place by the standoff and with the insulation removed.

Could you look at your late 90/early 2000 coach to see if that is the way Foretravel originally mounted these plates? I can't find any witness marks to indicated where any outboard standoffs would have been mounted.
 
Thanks,

Bob

Re: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

Reply #1 –
Not sure if this helps you?
Chuck Wiggy
Coloma, Wisconsin
Sold my 1999 U 320 40 Ft. M11 450 hp
Build # 5468
2009 Silverado

Re: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

Reply #2 –
That looks like mine,assume you are in the process of re-insulation,when we did ours we took the electrical parts off and repainted the plates and cleaned all the wires and repainted all the rust we could get to.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

Reply #3 –
What did you use for your new insulation?
Chuck Wiggy
Coloma, Wisconsin
Sold my 1999 U 320 40 Ft. M11 450 hp
Build # 5468
2009 Silverado

Re: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

Reply #4 –
We cleaned all the old glue off the inside panels,we used Easy-Cool and a product called Noico,the noico can be found on ebay,it is sticky rubber on one side and thick foil on the other,the easy cool comes in rolls and is on Amazon,used 2 layers of the easy cool
with spray glue and used some of the old plastic washers.When you redo the electric panel for the price get all new solenoids and relays,it looks like your isolator has been upgraded already.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

Reply #5 –
This is what I did after I re insulated the engine compartment.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

Reply #6 –
Wow, I like that. Looks good!
Chuck Wiggy
Coloma, Wisconsin
Sold my 1999 U 320 40 Ft. M11 450 hp
Build # 5468
2009 Silverado

Re: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

Reply #7 –
Thanks for the pictures and information. They helped. Little did I know when I decided to replace the insulation that the electrical connection cleanup would take so long especially working upside down with sweat dripping in your eyes. I have found considerable corrosion on the terminals so it was definitely overdue.  The good news is that the spare Cole Hersee solenoid I have been carting around for 10 years will finally be put to use.

Re: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

Reply #8 –
Quote from: Bob McGee –
The good news is that the spare Cole Hersee solenoid I have been carting around for 10 years will finally be put to use.

Be sure it is a CONSTANT DUTY solenoid. Cole Hersee makes both.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

Reply #9 –
Thanks it is a 200 amp continuous duty Cole Hersee 24143.
 

Re: Isolator/Solenoid Mounting

Reply #10 –
especially working upside down with sweat dripping in your eyes.
It was 114 degrees here today, I feel your pain. Last week I installed my ECM and thought it was going to hurt me. No fun upside down in the engine compartment.
Scott