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Topic: Atwood Water Heater (Read 835 times) previous topic - next topic

Atwood Water Heater

So, I have owned My Foretravel for just about, 20 years. The Three way, water heater only worked on L.P. Gas, or when the engine was running from the heat exchanger built in the unit. I could never get it to work on the 110 volt circuit supplied by the switch at the foot of the bed. I assumed that the heating element had gotten burn out from being turned on with No Water in the Tank. I have decided to upgrade the system, by installing a "Tankless" Instant Hot L.P. water Heater. I am in the process of removing the old water heater, and while checking for all of the connections I observed, through a little round access hole, in the pass through bay, all of the various connections; Water in, Water out, L.P.Gas Supply, 110 volt supply,  :o  Wow!!  Here is where I found a Little Black Togel Switch, on top of the electrical junction box, in the "off" position...  I don't remember seeing it mentioned it the instalation manual, and it cannot be seen without a mirror looking from the access hole.....    I am Posting this incase someone else has the same problem I had, It's Not Necessarily the Electrical element...
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Gerry & Brenda
CHARLOTTE HARBOR, FL
1994 Grand Villa - # 4466
U300 Unihome - 6V92 Detroit
4 speed Allison - Jake Brake

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #1 –
Gerry,

Let us know if turning it on (a) showed 120 VAC on the water heater side of the switch (b) made the 120 VAC heating element work/heat water.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #2 –
Hi Brett, Too late, I have the tank drained, but I will Check for Continuity through the element, once I have it removed...  ^.^d
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Gerry & Brenda
CHARLOTTE HARBOR, FL
1994 Grand Villa - # 4466
U300 Unihome - 6V92 Detroit
4 speed Allison - Jake Brake

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #3 –
Thanks.

Yes check the element, and also see if you have 120 VAC on the wire that went to the water heater when that switch is on.

That may help others with the hidden mystery switch.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #4 –
Please don't immediately dispose of the water heater if it's working - someone may need it!

Atwood Water Heater
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #5 –
Quote from: Michelle –
Please don't immediately dispose of the water heater if it's working - someone may need it!

Atwood Water Heater
It will Be available Here in Southwest Florida. When I complete the project. I will post with picture, it does have quite a bit calcium corrosion around the fittings. (Free to good home)
The selected media item is not currently available.
Gerry & Brenda
CHARLOTTE HARBOR, FL
1994 Grand Villa - # 4466
U300 Unihome - 6V92 Detroit
4 speed Allison - Jake Brake

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #6 –
Gerry,
99% chance that was your issue with the 120v element not working. Ours has the same switch, also there should be a thermostat and high limit cutout on the backside of the heater. I believe they are preset at 120 degrees and the high temp has a resetable button if it opens the circuit. Unfortunately the 120 volt side of things are located in a not so easy to access area unless the tank is completely removed. It can be done tho.  :headwall:

Justin
Justin & Cathy Byrd
1995 U280 "Old Faithful"
36' Build #4673
C8.3 Cummins
Allison MD3060R 6 speed - retarder
Powertech 10KW  4cyl Kubota

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #7 –
Quote from: Gerry Vicha –
So, I have owned My Foretravel for just about, 20 years. The Three way, water heater only worked on L.P. Gas, or when the engine was running from the heat exchanger built in the unit. I could never get it to work on the 110 volt circuit supplied by the switch at the foot of the bed. I assumed that the heating element had gotten burn out from being turned on with No Water in the Tank. I have decided to upgrade the system, by installing a "Tankless" Instant Hot L.P. water Heater. I am in the process of removing the old water heater, and while checking for all of the connections I observed, through a little round access hole, in the pass through bay, all of the various connections; Water in, Water out, L.P.Gas Supply, 110 volt supply,  :o  Wow!!  Here is where I found a Little Black Togel Switch, on top of the electrical junction box, in the "off" position...  I don't remember seeing it mentioned it the instalation manual, and it cannot be seen without a mirror looking from the access hole.....    I am Posting this incase someone else has the same problem I had, It's Not Necessarily the Electrical element...

I wonder id someone added that as an "upgrade" to avoid accidentally flipping it on.  Our switch is at the foot of the bed and we've accidently kicked it on a couple times and put a steady drain on the house batteries until we caught it.  So, when dry camping, I flip it off in the breaker box.
Joe Phebus and Jaime Trujillo
2002 U270 3410  Build: 5953 Motorcader # 18595
2100 W Solar, 600 AH Battleborn Batteries,  Victron Multi-Plus II 3000 Inverter, Cerbo GX, & MPPT Chargers
1992 Geo Tracker

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #8 –
Quote from: Joe Phebus –
Our switch is at the foot of the bed and we've accidently kicked it on a couple times and put a steady drain

We have the standard OEM switch at the foot of the bed also, ours is not powered by the inverter tho. It would drain the house batteries rather quickly as the 120v element is 1000 watts. The toggle switch on the back of the water heater should be there as a "service disconnect" for a repair technician.

To clarify, it feeds from the breaker to the illuminated switch at the foot of the bed then to the toggle switch on the back of the water heater. Then to the high limit cutout, thermostat and finally the heating element.


Justin & Cathy Byrd
1995 U280 "Old Faithful"
36' Build #4673
C8.3 Cummins
Allison MD3060R 6 speed - retarder
Powertech 10KW  4cyl Kubota

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #9 –
In 2003 Atwood eliminated the quarter sized sensors on the back of the unit for 110V and used a relay with a switch. I moved my relay/switch to the side bulkhead wall to make it easier to turn off and on. The 110 heating element is most likely fine.
1994 U280, Build 4490
Deming, NM.

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #10 –
Quote from: Gerry Vicha –
It will Be available Here in Southwest Florida. When I complete the project. I will post with picture, it does have quite a bit calcium corrosion around the fittings. (Free to good home)
This water heater is out and available here in southwest Florida, FREE to anyone that would like it. 30 years old has about 80,000 miles on it, Was working on L.P. gas and Heat exchanger when removed, I believe the 120 Volt System is also working now that I found the secondary switch that was located on the Heater itself.  I don't think it is worth the cost to ship it, but if you want it let me know... 
The selected media item is not currently available.
Gerry & Brenda
CHARLOTTE HARBOR, FL
1994 Grand Villa - # 4466
U300 Unihome - 6V92 Detroit
4 speed Allison - Jake Brake
 

Re: Atwood Water Heater

Reply #11 –
Hi Twig, good to see your posting. Moving the relay from the back side, moves the heating element power source to where it can be reached, allowing the ability to meter the heating element to be sure it is working. Keeping the relay on the back side prevents access to the heating element. Happy travels Twig, Barry & Cindy