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Topic: Front cap insulation (Read 815 times) previous topic - next topic

Front cap insulation

I have removed the OEM black foam insulation from my front cap and will be replacing it soon (and also redoing the audio/video area). From the search I did of the forum, there are several insulation replacements suggested. One includes the original pricy foam that FOT used. For those that ordered from FOT, what was the price and did it come in one long piece? It seems to me that it would be difficult to cut, trim & install such a long piece of foam through/behind our cabinets.

Thanks

Bob

Re: Front cap insulation

Reply #1 –
Quote from: BobW –
I have removed the OEM black foam insulation from my front cap
Bob,
 
Thanks for the picture. I assume we are looking at the back of the front cap and the red is the remnant of the glue FOT used to hold the OEM insulation. I also assume that the 4 of 5 things we see are the front marker lights, right?
 
What did you have for the rear wall of the front cabinets?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent

Re: Front cap insulation

Reply #2 –
Trent:
You do see the marker lights.
The back of the cabinets are just 1/4 inch woodboard.
I still haven't found the best way to remove 100% of the residual adhesive.
Bob

Re: Front cap insulation

Reply #3 –

Bob, I too am in the same un insulated condition. I am going to use fire retardant spray foam and built a bunch of 1 1/2 beads to form a 1 1/2 inch layer of foam. Have used this product in the past with good results. Very cost effective and much lighter than the black stuff. Probably not as good a sound suppressor but fine for me. About R7 per inch but has outstanding reflective values ie you've never burnt you hand with cup of hot coffee in a styrofoam cup.
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Scott

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Re: Front cap insulation

Reply #4 –
Quote from: dsd –
I am going to use fire retardant spray foam and built a bunch of 1 1/2 beads to form a 1 1/2 inch layer of foam. Have used this product in the past with good results.
Scott,
This sounds interesting.  Would you please post some pictures of the process or at least the finished project?
Thanks,
Richard

Re: Front cap insulation

Reply #5 –
Richard it's on the list. Today flex key replacements and slide awning canvas. Need/trying to get our coach roadworthy for a 4200 mile road trip next month, so insulation will have to wait. The spray foam is a great product, I've used for years and even for what it was intended. Low skill level required. But need to practice a little bit before you start. Turn applicator gun down/slower so you can run limited full open. Makes it easier to control. Make a couple of test beads. Keep the end of the applicator tip clean and I actually lube up with DC4 or Vaseline to prevent foam from sticking to it. Also can use 3/16 clear plastic tubing To remote applicator in tight areas. Must secure to end of applicator nozzle or it will pop off. I use tycord. Wax lacing string. Very limited outgassing during curing. Non after. You can also manually shape it after it skins over, but density goes way up. Clean up while wet acetone. I clean applicator can mount with acetone every can change. Just pour a little on and install new can. Once cured acetone no longer works. Latex gloves recommended till you get the hang of it. Smaller beads cure faster and do not sag. Better to have several layers cured in between if you want thicker. Definitely I will post when I get to it on "The List"
Scott
 

Re: Front cap insulation

Reply #6 –
Bob I used Goo Gone to wipe the surface in my engine and generator compartments after I removed the old insulation. It left the surface tacky. The new insulation I used had a sticky adhesive surface.
Very good adhesion.