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Topic: Battery Isolator or auto combiner? (Read 3224 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #20 –
Barry thanks for the post info about the blue seas not auto combining when the btms lowers the gel batteries to below 13 volts.

My magnum me arc panel is showing 13.0- 13.1.  Was warm in Terlingua, to today.  92

Checked the magnum panel and it shows the Bts temp at 104.  So the charger went to 13.0-13.1. 

The engine batteries and the house batteries showed 13.09 and 13.14 respectively so they were not combined.

Used the manual switch for a minute to combine the banks and the engine side started to flicker between 13.09 and 13.10 and the charger showed 10amps output. 

Interesting.  If not gels but flooded or AGM the .2 volts higher settings would have the combiner still working at 104 on the bts as it would be at 13.2 or so.

I suppose I could change the settings to AGM and fool the combiner. 

I did not understand your next to last line about the isolation?

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #21 –
The combiner isolates when the starter is engaged is what he is talking about.

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #22 –
Maybe craneman,  the sentence does not make sense as written.

Also you may not to use Blue Sea ACR start isolation feature.

I do have the start isolation hooked up.

I think he maybe talking about using the manual connect mode on the combiner to connect the banks in hot weather.

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #23 –
Hi Barry,
I assume you plug in to a 50 A outlet if you run 4 lasko heaters, right?
Before plugging in my 1 or maybe 2 Lasko heaters I am going to have to get draw information about my Heart freedom 25 inverter (which will be on and set to charge)
because I am plugging into 15 A.  UNLESS anyone has that info out there and would care to share.
Peter

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #24 –
We hardly use Lasko anymore as we stay out of cold temps.  4 Lasko 200 watt heaters draw about 8 amps total, so 15, 20, 30, or 50 amp would work, as long as other loads don't exceed breaker pedestal limit.

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #25 –
Bob,

We have an LED in the kitchen in our 12v monitor panel that lights up when BlueSea is combining. Also have separate volt meters for house & start bank, all to keep us informed on our 12-volt world.

In addition, we power Blue Sea start isolation feature with ignition (not start) so we don't combine when engine alternator is charging.

As far as our previous discussion, Blue Sea will stop combining (it will open its relay) when battery voltage drops below its specified set point. Which in our coach, based upon the charger's profile, when house battery bank gets too warm (about 90 degrees) charger's float voltage lowers to about 13 volts to prevent damaging batteries.

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #26 –
As stated before, I am tossing around getting a auto combiner instead of replacing the isolator I have.
In viewing it again today (see pics) the right side of the isolator is actually coming apart!
So I guess I should get to it.. but another question arises. The unit below confuses me as to what it is. I presume I will have to replace it as well, but do not know what it is. Any help would be great!
I think the cables are ok  (with a little brushing)
Peter

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #27 –
That is the boost solenoid and if it works not necessary to change.

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #28 –
Barry I talked with my guru and he mentioned that the blue seas does not disconnect until 12.75 or 12.6 volts.

The location of the combiner at a distance from the batteries induces a voltage drop.  The combiner is seeing the lower voltages hence the disconnect.  I am thinking the cabling from the batteries to the combiner is not 4.0 marine fine strand cabling?  We may need to see what's actually used.  If we want our combiners to work in hot weather we may need to run better cabling to the combiner.

Stands to reason as blue seas is a marine unit and long cable runs to the combiner would be unusual.

Can you see for us what size cabling did Foretravel use from the battery area to the isolator/combiner?
 

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #29 –
Bob, you could be correct. After being combined, specs show it will disconnect after falling to 12.75v.

Specs for our Blue Sea SI-ACr:

Combine 30 sec 13.6V @ 12 V

Combine 90 sec 13.0V @ 12 V

Open 10 sec      12.35V @ 12 V

Open 30 sec      12.75V @ 12 V

I installed our Blue Sea combiner to heavy battery direct cables at the top of our bay wall 12-volt panel. Combiner is mountedright next to the bay wall panel under the white cover.

My observations are when battery temp is about 90 degrees, the combine LED light is off and house voltage shows about 12.9 volts. I don't think much about the disconnection as we also have a Trik-L-Start to keep start bank under some charge.

Our house are two 8D GELL, start three red-top AGM and both banks seem to last over 10 years. Our Xantrex inverter charger has a custom setting to adjust voltages and temp-voltage coefficient, which I changed. Most chargers do not allow this adjustment and have pre-set coefficients for each profile.

BTW, my previous mention about having ignition tied to Blue Sea Start-Isolation terminal to prevent combining does flash the inside LED lamp.