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Topic: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel (Read 2244 times) previous topic - next topic

tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Today my power cord reel (reelcraft L7000 manual) decided to not latch and hold the extended power cord. Looks like I might need a new latch pawl or latch spring. But instructions on doing this are not on the reelcraft web page. Any one here done this and can advise on the proper steps. Saw nothing on search.

Thanks in advance.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #1 –
A lot of times it just needs lubrication to get the pawl to drop.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #2 –
Quote from: craneman –
A lot of times it just needs lubrication to get the pawl to drop.
I'll try to figure out where to spray some silicon lube. It doesn't seem obvious from looking at it where one should spray.

Went and looked and sure enough. That pawl is forward of where it should be. Sprayed it down and pushed it back with a screw driver and it works. But it is still stiff and might take a while to loosen up.
 
Thanks for the tip Craneman.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #3 –
Quote from: bigdog –
I'll try to figure out where to spray some silicon lube. It doesn't seem obvious from looking at it where one should spray.
If your reel looks like mine, then the yellow arrow indicates the general location of the pawl & spring.  If you shine a bright light into that crack you should be able to see it.  Mine gets sticky sometimes, and a quick squirt of WD-40 seems to free it up.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #4 –
I used WD 40 on mine also.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #5 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
If your reel looks like mine, then the yellow arrow indicates the general location of the pawl & spring.  If you shine a bright light into that crack you should be able to see it.  Mine gets sticky sometimes, and a quick squirt of WD-40 seems to free it up.
Yup! That's the one and that's where that sticky latch is. I'll let it soak over night and see if it works on it's own Monday. I was however lacking a straw to take accurate aim. If it doesn't free up. I'll find a straw.

It's funny how this stuff just stops working as opposed to being finicky but sometimes working. It went from hero to zero in an instant.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #6 –
Big Dog,
Mine would not latch.  I sprayed some PB Blaster and it has been working great.  Attached are pictures of where to spray.  You need to lubricate the latch dog.
John M.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #7 –
Quote from: bigdog –
It's funny how this stuff just stops working as opposed to being finicky but sometimes working.
I like what yours did better than what mine does.  Intermittent problems drive me crazy.

Mine gets to where it will work one time, and not work the next time.  When it gets sticky, if I keep jerking the cord in and out it will eventually catch.  But then, if it does finally catch, I don't get quite irritated enough to do something about it, so I have to deal with it AGAIN the next time it happens.

Better (for me) when it just quits.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #8 –
John has better photos than me, but he's slow on the draw.  8)

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #9 –
The reelcraft power reel was going to be a future problem and my Foretravel service guy had an Glendinning Cablemater power cord reel installed.  No slip rings.  Power in and out. 1/4 turned  and I removed the water hose reel as the Cablemaster fills the bay 3/4.  Enough room to carefully install a Hughes Autoformer behind and to the left of the reel.  Enough room to fit a Hughes wall plug so the Autoformer can be bypassed if needed.

Sorry it's not how to get the latching pawls to work but maybe a heads up that sooner or later the sliding contact ring will fail.

So again I was proactive and replaced the old system with a 100% reliable prepper setup.

Yes it's not cheap.  But most here over the long term are starting to see service/wear issues.

I/We have a not as pretty outside as some but the systems in the coach have all been uodated.

Closer and closer to what the original owner enjoyed but better systems wise.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #10 –
What are you doing with the water hose now?

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #11 –
Just using a separate nice hose.  We dry camp and/or run on the internal tank mostly.  I have the removed hose reel here still.  Would have to be in the adjoining bay.  Been looking at heated hoses for a few years for winter. 

I have a set of fancy  hoses here but unused as of yet,  thick harder to coil, 

The trade offs for removing it were a better choice in my final judgement.  The idea that my buddy had a new cablemaster he had scrounged and was cheap helped sway me.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #12 –
Quote from: John Morales –
Big Dog,
Mine would not latch.  I sprayed some PB Blaster and it has been working great.  Attached are pictures of where to spray.  You need to lubricate the latch dog.
John M.
That's where I sprayed John. Although as I didn't have a spray straw, The lube shot wasn't ultra precise but it might do the trick. But at least I know what gives and that's half the battle.

Chuck, I understand where you are coming from. For me if it's finicky but still 'mostly' works. It gives me time to research and figure out what to do.

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #13 –
Chuck,
 
In your picture of the cable reel, the Fresh Water tank can be seen behind it. The "FULL" line on yours is lower than the one on mine. How did you determine that was the "full" location?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent
(Getting ready to install my SeeLevel system.)

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #14 –
Trent,

That was a old photo taken before I installed my SeeLevel monitors.  The "full" mark was the actual water when my old OEM Audit tank gauge first turned on the top tank level mark.  As you can see, it was not very accurate.

I think I have another photo showing the "revised" full mark that goes with the SeeLevel system.  It ended up about one inch below the top of the tank when the monitor showed 100%, which I think is perfect.  Leaves a little air space in the tank to avoid dumping water out the overflow pipe.

Well, I can't find the photo, but I found this one showing my fresh water tank quick fill pipe.  When my SeeLevel indicates 100% the water level in the tank just comes up to the bottom of the quick fill pipe, which is 1" below the top of the tank.


ReelCraft hose reel for water hose

Reply #15 –
Our water hose broke while we were in Montana from a heavy freeze, so just now replacing it.  I pulled the ReelCraft out and worked on what was left of the old hose.  When I installed a new 1/2 inch water hose, I cut the male end off and installed a 1/2 inch NPT male that had a barb end and screwed it into the ReelCraft.  Then I attached the hose itself and a SS clamp.  Good to go now and a cheap fix compared to the dollars they want for a new hose with the right end.  I did remove the spring from the old hose and installed it on the new.  This helps in keeping the hose from kinking on that sharp bend!
Hope this helps others looking to replace their water hose.
A new ReelCraft is $456 and change!
 

Re: tearing apart reelcraft 7000 reel

Reply #16 –
Quote from: craneman –
I used WD 40 on mine also.
WD 40 works but It gums up and it sticks pretty quickly.  I have started using the spray silicon like you use on a tow bar.  It does not get gummy like WD 40. 

I have used on my tool box locks on my truck.  Six months later it is all gummed up and I have to start over.  I am using Silicone spray and  It appears to be working much better.  It does not get gummy over time and is not tacky attracting dirt.