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Topic: power to dash but no crank 1995 u300 (Read 319 times) previous topic - next topic

power to dash but no crank 1995 u300

I am trying to track down a problem with starting. Bought used coach over a year ago. From time to time coach would have dash power but no crank. could flip boost switch and would start fine. Seemed like it took a long time for solenoid to pop in. So started my investigation.

1.Changed batteries- tested old one first, tested out fine but 10 years old. So changed it out anyways

2.after battery changes doing same thing power to dash but no crank- turn on boost switch relay under dash sounded like it was trying to click in. starts with boost switch.

3. So changed solenoid under dash- sometimes power to dash, sometimes not. flip boost switch- new solenoid switch still clicks for a little bit and then starts just fine.

4. thought maybe i just possibly got a bad new battery. Tested with battery load tester and tested perfect.

Is there somthing between battery and dash power that i should check?

Looking for advice on where to go next. I know there are two solenoids behind driver rear tire. What does these do?

I dont mind changing them if needed but trying to avoid just throwing money at the problem without knowing.

Re: power to dash but no crank 1995 u300

Reply #1
When this occurs, check voltage on both IN and OUT sides of the IGNITION SOLENOID.

Also, voltage on the small terminal (hot) from the ignition switch.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: power to dash but no crank 1995 u300

Reply #2
Ignition lock assembly may be bad. The ignition solenoid should have full voltage on both sides as soon as you turn the key. In the rear, one is the boost solenoid, the other may be the starter solenoid or remote solenoid on a CAT or Cummins.
Put a voltmeter on the ignition solenoid and compare it to the voltage at the rear solenoid and starter motor.

You should hear the boost solenoid click with flipping the boost switch. No delay. Have someone flip the switch when you are back at the solenoid so you can identify it. You should be easily to hear it click with your head out the window.

Do you have the 12V schematic? The wires are coded and pretty easy to compare to the schematic but may have faded with time under the coach. Think our 1993 U300 schematic is a little different than yours. The 1993 schematic is in in the "media" at this site.

I'm assuming the cables leading from the engine batteries have be removed, cleaned until bright copper color and replaced. Same with the posts with a post and terminal cleaner. You might check cranking voltage at the cables as someone cranks the engine.

See boost and aux solenoid at bottom of this page: https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=194;nw;start=35

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: power to dash but no crank 1995 u300

Reply #3
I would replace ALL start battery post connectors. Not clean them. Replace. They are cheap and fixed my same problem.

In the back one solenoid is your boost, the other is for aux (rear) start.
1994 U280, Build 4490
Deming, NM.

 

Re: power to dash but no crank 1995 u300

Reply #4
In this summer weather, the engine should start in a half revolution without the boost solenoid. Failure to do so indicates a starting system fault.

I ran an extra ground cable from the engine battery negative a short distance to a chassis metal location.

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)