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Topic: water heater leak...kinda (Read 710 times) previous topic - next topic

water heater leak...kinda

Hi Folks I have searched for the answer but it seems I am not using the right terminology or something, because I can't find what I need.
The nylon nut on the front of my water heater appears to have a small leak (see pic) It leaks with or without being turned on, 24hrs.
My camera can't catch it but I can see it. Before I try to remove/tighten/adjust anything, I wanted to make sure that I have a replacement and an idea about how to address it if it goes south. (I'm imagining it splitting/shearing from age)
Does anyone know where to get one of these? Part number?
Is it common for them to leak? Is this indicative of another problem?
Is there a particular fix I should know about in advance?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.
1998 U295

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #1 –
That looks like the drain plug on the water heater tank.  It is a standard nylon pipe thread plug - should be sold at any RV supply store or general hardware type store.  You need to pull it out occasionally to drain the mineral buildup in the tank - part of routine maintenance.  If you want to remove it, first turn off the water heater (if it has been on), then release pressure on the hot water pipes by opening a hot water faucet (with water pump/shore water turned off of course).  Be prepared for 6-10 gallons of water to come gushing out!

Amazon.com : rv water heater drain plug

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jthABFHF4c&t=2s

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #2 –
Last time I drained our (original factory installed) water heater.  30 years old and still works fine!

Water heater drain

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #3 –
I didn't watch that video I linked all the way through...sorry...it might be a little misleading.

Since your water heater has a nylon drain plug, it is probably a Atwood water heater, and does not require an anode rod like the one shown in the video.  Just reuse the plug you remove as long as it is in good shape.  If it is chewed up, get a new plug.  If the plug leaks, try a little pink teflon plumber's tape (or some pipe dope) on the plug threads.

Don't be tempted to use a steel or brass plug in your aluminum water tank.  The dissimilar metals will not play well together.

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #4 –
Thank you Chuck & Jeannie, I'll have that in my hand tomorrow then.

I will replace it and see if that solves the issue. The water appears to be coming directly around the plug, so I'd guess it's past best condition. I will update soon
Thanks again.

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #5 –
I find that Teflon tape can fail. I prefer pipe dope.

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #6 –
Easily cross treaded when wrapped with Teflon tape, I always have a spare

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #7 –
Replacement plug:
Camco 11630 Water Heater Drain Plug - Pack of 2,1/2 Inch , White:
$10 could be delivered in 2 days, shipped from Amazon inventory for increased product and delivery accuracy.
Use Teflon tape on nylon plug and be VERY careful starting threads to not cross thread nylon plug.  Keep spare and only use nylon drain plugs

Buy washout hose adapter similar to this:
Camco Camper/RV Water Heater Tank Rinser | Improves Water Heater Function by Flushing Out Sediment | Easily Attaches to Standard Garden Hose & Features Convenient Shutoff Valve (11691)
Probably better to find rinser model with copper tube insert instead of plastic insert.
 
ALWAYS turn electric heating element 120v power off before draining, otherwise it will burn out in less than a minute without being immersed in water.  Also turn heater breaker off for extra protection.
 
Good preventative practice is to drain and flush several times a year to help reduce big lime deposit buildup.  Note that a lot of water will remain below drain plug level that can be siphoned out.

Anyone who does not drain & flush hot water tank is not being kind to their hot water tank.

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #8 –
  Note that a lot of water will remain below drain plug level that can be siphoned out.

[/quote]


I could never understand why the drain plug was not put at the lowest point of the water heater so one could completely drain the water, but Barry is spot on...there is still a lot of water in there after you think you've drained it.

I have mine out right now so I can access my fresh water tank to install new see-level strips. While it is out I filled it with 50/50 solution of white vinegar for 24 hours and drained that out with it sitting level, then tipped it over on it's face to drain the remaining solution...this is when you really get the bulk of the dissolved lime/gunk out that has been hiding in the bottom of the tank.

This situation comes into play when you might think you've drained it to winterize also. Perhaps there is a reason they are made that way but it makes no sense to me..........

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #9 –
Barry mentioned the "washout adapter" in his comments up above.  I believe this simple device is the best means of properly cleaning most of the accumulated gunk, unless of course you want to completely remove the tank, which is a LOT more work.  The wand directs a stream of water around the inside of the tank, stirring up the debris on the bottom and providing a good quantity of flowing water to carry the trash out the drain hole.  Works great!

I have an old CAMCO wand with a flexible plastic tube - it seems to work pretty well.  I see they now offer wands with metal tubes.  I don't know if I would want to use a metal tube for poking around inside the old and probably rather fragile aluminum tank, but that's up to each owner to decide.

Google "water heater flush wand" or something like that for many choices.

Amazon.com : rv water heater flush wand

I would also recommend having a new pressure/temperature safety relief valve in your spare parts box - just in case.  The first time I serviced our original factory installed water heater (7 years ago), I tried to open the safety valve manually, using the little lever.  It would not budge regardless of force applied.  I removed it and replaced it with a new valve.  Upon further inspection, I found the old valve completely frozen by corrosion and mineral deposits.  The tank would have blown up long before that valve ever opened.  :o

Part Number Collection

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #10 –
To drain the bottom residual, we use copper pipe that is curved. Insert the pipe with the end touching the bottom and then start a siphon somehow and let the water flow out by keeping the curved pipe end on the bottom in he pool of water.

We also connected a drain hose from TempPress valve so the bottom is below the bay floor. This is to keep any valve flows from putting water inside bay. This valve is smaller than standard valves and maybe mainly used on RVs.

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #11 –
UPDATE:
Ok, so the nylon plug self destructed as I expected (as soon as a tool touched it), as a result of thermal decay I'm sure.
Getting out the other half was fun but manageable with a bit of patience.
Draining the tank and replacing this plug have now been added to the annual maintenance plan.
Does anyone have any idea how long the relief valve lasts? It looks like this should be next. It works but is clearly showing signs of being gunked up like the tank. So I'll be ordering a new one of those today.
Thanks to all who contributed to my knowledge growth, what a great group this is!
 

Re: water heater leak...kinda

Reply #12 –
Quote from: Kiwitex –
UPDATE:
Ok, so the nylon plug self destructed as I expected (as soon as a tool touched it), as a result of thermal decay I'm sure.
Getting out the other half was fun but manageable with a bit of patience.

A sprinkler head removal tool is a quick and easy way to remove a broken Atwood nylon drain plug.