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Topic: alternator not charging (Read 1522 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: alternator not charging

Reply #25
Tnalaskan wrote; "I replaced the alternator and several electrical solenoid."

Oh goody.  Let's change a bunch of stuff at the same time.

Back to basics:  The sense wire goes to the Chassis battery.  If you have a battery isolator, use the chassis battery terminal on the battery isolator.  The excite wire* goes to the ignition terminal on the ignition switch, so you're looking for a wire that has battery voltage when the ignition switch is in the on or run position, and no voltage when ignition off.  Now check and see if there is electricity coming out of the alternator.  At the alternator.

*No excitation, no output.
Yes the parts that were replaced were because they didn't work. They were tested. I still don't have power at the sense or ignition.

Re: alternator not charging

Reply #26
If you want to see your new alternator work, you can temporarily connect the ign terminal to any source of battery voltage.

Same thing goes for the sense wire.

What wires did you have for the old alternator?  There's the big wire for the output terminal.  And a medium sized wire for 12V+, and a skinny wire for sense.  Maybe a ground wire, although alternators generally ground through the mounting points to the engine to the chassis.

Yup, tell us which terminals of the alternator have a wire to them.  That should be an easy start:

B+
Sense
Ign

And, if there are wires, with ignition off and then with it on, what are the voltage readings?
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

 

Re: alternator not charging

Reply #27
Yes the parts that were replaced were because they didn't work. They were tested. I still don't have power at the sense or ignition.
The sense power is the easier one to fix.  A #22 sense wire can be run directly to the battery positive.  The output side of a diode battery isolator is a good practical place to get the necessary voltage.  The sense terminal works the same way as the red lead on your multimeter for DC volts.

The ign power for your alternator usually comes from the "ALT" or "GEN" light, or any other 12vdc that is switched on and off by the ignition switch.  I stay away from switched power to any electronics, but if your fuel cutoff solenoid is switched by the ignition switch and not an engine management computer, that's a good place to tap.

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