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Topic: Need to prime fuel to start (Read 1258 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #20 –
As I have mentioned in other threads, the original Winn filter system on our 1995 U320 became problematic--particularly in colder weather. Despite my best efforts at maintaining it, I still had problems (due to fuel starvation) starting the engine in cold weather.

A few years ago I replaced the Winn system with the Parker 790R30 system and haven't had those issues again. I highly recommend it!

The Racor 700 Series Fuel Filter Water Separator is a two-stage filtration and re-priming system that's designed for use in heavy-duty diesel applications. The assembly comes equipped with a state-of-the-art integrated fuel pump, which allows for easy priming and simplified service by eliminating messy filter pre-filling and engine hard starting.

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #21 –
George there is a Schroeder valve on mine at about the top left of your photo just out of view. I bleed the excess air out with the purge pump. Mine runs at about half full of fuel. Was low when I had air leaks in the system. David I originally thought I would go to the filter Racor 700 series but have since decided I want the benefits of the FASS  pump system because of the lift pump and positive air removal. I do know for a fact our main fuel pump runs and draws a vacuum while operating. My fuel minder indicator I added always shows half scale-goes higher if filter is plugged. Vacuum actuated. The 700 only has a purge pump.
Scott

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #23 –
I planning to put a Fass system in my coach soon. One of my concerns is the return
line as I have phoned Fass and they say it needs its own entrance back into the
tank. If I had of know about the Fass system when I did my fuel lines I would have
welded  a bung into the tank. They have a system where I could cut the fuel fill
neck and put it in there but I'm not sure I want to do that.

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #24 –
Quote from: oldguy –
I planning to put a Fass system in my coach soon. One of my concerns is the return
line as I have phoned Fass and they say it needs its own entrance back into the
tank. If I had of know about the Fass system when I did my fuel lines I would have
welded  a bung into the tank. They have a system where I could cut the fuel fill
neck and put it in there but I'm not sure I want to do that.
Yes I agree about adding another bung. So in pondering about this for a month I think one could add the return in one of the other return fittings. Generator returns very little fuel. Generator line on my coach is 3/16 line and steps up to 3/8 return line at tank. Should be sufficient for return of air and generator return demands.
Scott

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #25 –
Scott I think they want a 1/2 fitting for the return line. I will call them again. I could
weld a bung on that angled piece off the top of the tank so I will check with Fass
to find out if the return could be in the diesel when the tank is full. I would also like
to pull the return line without dropping line cover in the main storage area.

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #26 –
My turn with the 300200 it appears.  I changed the spin on filter next to this and purposely didn't touch this guy, and now it's leaking.  Ordered a new one online.  I read somewhere about removing the thumb screw to remove this...does someone have the link?

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #27 –
If you reused the old fittings, that may be the issue...I reused mine and it was a stupid mistake. If you score (even in the slightest) the old fittings and reuse them they WILL allow air in the lines. I had to replace them after so I got new fittings and added clamps to boot. Sorry you are having an issue and I know it is the last thing you want to do over but I have had no issues since I did the fix. Good luck.

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #28 –
I didn't touch the 300200 plastic see-thru assembly, but it is leaking now, so I've ordered a replacement.  Just need to figure out how to remove and replace it properly.

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #29 –
Keith,

You may just need to replace the O rings in the filter you have.

Mike

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #30 –
As I have written before I believe if you replace that old system with a Parker/Racor 790R30 your problems will be solved. That's what I did and it solved mine.

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #31 –
Thanks Mike...didn't want to take the chance of taking it apart and having an issue, so a new one is on the way.  I've not had issues until I replaced the spin on filter next to it last night.

DJ, I've seen your info as well but I'm hoping this $65 fix works.  I've not had an issue with this previously and would rather not spend another $400 on the coach right now. 

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #32 –
Quote from: WS6_Keith –
DJ, I've seen your info as well but I'm hoping this $65 fix works.  I've not had an issue with this previously and would rather not spend another $400 on the coach right now. 

I understand your reluctance to spend additional money on this but (for me at least) it was worth it to resolve a recurring problem and to avoid (once again) being stranded in a remote location. Good luck!

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #33 –
Quote from: WS6_Keith –
Thanks Mike...didn't want to take the chance of taking it apart and having an issue, so a new one is on the way.  I've not had issues until I replaced the spin on filter next to it last night.

DJ, I've seen your info as well but I'm hoping this $65 fix works.  I've not had an issue with this previously and would rather not spend another $400 on the coach right now.

Take the wingnut off the top and lift the housing up to get to the filter. It is cleanable but if cracked has to be replaced.

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #34 –
There are O rings on both ends of the plastic filter, easy to replace.
 

Re: Need to prime fuel to start

Reply #35 –
There are 2 o rings for each end of the plastic filter. One on each end is visible but the other ones are inside the housing.