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Topic: Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment.. (Read 583 times) previous topic - next topic

Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment..

When our front Penguins I guess domestics comes on noisy & stays noisy ?  13,5 a little light but the pos. Keeps going. Am looking into a "invention"
                        (RV air flow). See what u think?
am willing to go through the measurement (upside down with bi/trifocals) see if I can improve our situation  front.  The back little quieter.  We run the front at night the back  during  the day.  Noise being the problem. My hearing is failing. But not that far.

When u have a investment always buy the best, as I looked at this the front is a 13,5  been changed. A 15. Would possibly be better?
Bill, Tricia, Sassy  Mostly poodle. Maybe
It,s. 5 o clock somewhere,  ?
MoHo has 3 happy days,  Buy, everything works, sell.
  Hopefully the rest are pleasant days.

Pull 05 Jeep Liberty.

Re: Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment..

Reply #1 –
My air conditioners were noisy and I found the motor mounts were worn out I think it
was the rear ones. It was the easy ones to replace that were worn. I replaced them and
now ACs are quiet.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment..

Reply #2 –
Quote from: Billbag –
When our front Penguins I guess domestics comes on noisy & stays noisy ?  13,5 a little light but the pos. Keeps going. Am looking into a "invention"
                        (RV air flow). See what u think?
am willing to go through the measurement (upside down with bi/trifocals) see if I can improve our situation  front.  The back little quieter.  We run the front at night the back  during  the day.  Noise being the problem. My hearing is failing. But not that far.

When u have a investment always buy the best, as I looked at this the front is a 13,5  been changed. A 15. Would possibly be better?

That's what I did last year. Still have the working 13.5 in the box the 15K came in. Definitely more cooling.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment..

Reply #3 –
We have the "opportunity" to change A/C from the original Penguin 1 if I cannot fix the front A/C (issue posted yesterday).  We live in Killeen Texas (in a covered site) and next week 103f is predicted.  We will make it on 1 A/C but just.  With the 4 button Dometric thermostat it looks like our options are very limited if we need to replace the front unit as the new Penguin II wont talk to it.  What to do?  We can afford to replace both units and the Tstat with new but even that seems like an overwhelming job.  We could get a Penguin II and run it off its own new thermostat....and when the old rear A/C dies add in another new unit ....at that point both could run , along with the furnace, off of 1 Tstat someday.  Maybe someone has been down this road - is there a free standing A/C with it's own remote (wireless?) that in just drop in where the Penquin 1 was if new capacitors dont fix it (ordered).
U270 with ducted ceiling (1997).....this situation is why I dont like "integrated" hardware....everything ideally should be seperate and have its own control for reliability.  Thats how we set up our sailboat for a circumnavigation and it paid with exponentially less hassles than the high end systems available.
Carl and Kathleen
Killeen Texas
1997 U270

Re: Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment..

Reply #4 –
My front AC/heat pump was changed out before we bought the coach and the control board was changed out to the same old board as the rear AC/HP, I had the 5 button thermostat.
I replaced the back AC/HP with a 15000BTU AC/HP last summer. WE changed out the control board on the front AC/HR to the new board ( same as in new unit) and put in a new Thermostat.  The thermostat is the 10 button one. Every thing is working great. The 15000BTU unit was only about $100 more.
I hope this will help.
Ron
Ron Clark
Sherwood,Arkansas
1999 U 295 40 foot Build # 5550
2020 Jeep Gladiator
Motorcade # 18173
FMCA # F485593

Re: Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment..

Reply #5 –
I just replaced 3 13.5k 20 yr old Coleman Mach a/c with 2 Houghton 15k a/c heat pump units and a maxxair fan. 

The Coleman's would roar.  The Houghton is much quieter but I don't have anything to compare it with otherwise. 

Keep in mind the rating is going to give you the temperature drop/rise estimate.  Low fan speed is going to give you better dehumidification and greater temperature differential between entering air and exiting air. 

So if you are on the edge of cooling and turn the fan on high it will circulate more air but won't give you the most temperature drop, so there is kind of a gray area in there where you turn the fan speed down for cooler air but less circulation or turn it up for more circulation but less temperature differential. 

Always go with the biggest btu -estimate-, and that is what it is, with an ideally assembled a/c unit, no air gaps, etc.  And run it on low fan speed:).
Freightliner MT55 w 24 ft box
All aluminum.

Re: Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment..

Reply #6 –
OK, a couple of questions for all you A/C techs/gurus.

I recently replaced my original Colemans with 14.5 Furrions. The Furrions evaporator coils frost over/ice up if the compressor has to run any great length of time. The root cause of this is air flow. My 96 U270 is a non vented ceiling, thus the cold air goes directly into Furrions air distribution box which is of poor design. Cold air comes out of the upper unit and into the air box through a 3" X 6" opening (18 cu in) - the air box "duct" openings are only 1/2" X 6" (3 cu in) which squeezes the air flow way down. I can take the air box off, let it run blowing air straight down, and with the increased air flow through the evaporator coils, they will not offer to frost over. Of course this does not look very good, does not distribute the air real well, but it will run all day with no frost over. I intend to "modify" the air boxes to rectify this air flow problem.

Now back to the questions at hand...when I encounter this problem I turn on "fan only" until the frost/ice is melted and am good to go again....shouldn't the freeze sensor be doing this same thing for me? It is placed in Furrions recommended position.

What should the ohms reading be on a freeze sensor at room temperature?  and at freezing temp? (like if I put it in the freezer for a few minutes)  Might it be faulty?

 



Ralph
96 U270

Re: Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment..

Reply #7 –
Blocking off the louver that allows direct air dump from the A/C made a huge difference for us.  There's a rather pricey product to do this: Dometic or GE RV A/C Silencer DA100 - WackOProducts.    However, while not as tidy I was able to accomplish the same with a roll of aluminum tape and some insulating foam. 

I blocked off the opening with the aluminum tape (as seen in video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r80BbAsr7cA), sealed other areas that air could leak into the intake area, added a thin layer of high density foam under the louver and replaced the existing cover.  Much quieter than before and the vents in the rooms are more efficient.  Not a solution if you actually use the louvers, but we never did so this works for us.

Other than a slight bulge under the louver in the cover, it looks the same and the external vent output is much improved.

 



 
Joe Phebus and Jaime Trujillo
2002 U270 3410  Build: 5953 Motorcader # 18595
2100 W Solar, 600 AH Battleborn Batteries,  Victron Multi-Plus II 3000 Inverter, Cerbo GX, & MPPT Chargers
1992 Geo Tracker

Re: Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment..

Reply #8 –
Isnt there a thermometer on the coil that you move around to accommodate it freezing? Not sure on Furion but have seen on others and it usually just needs moved so the Compressor knows its cold and to shut off for a few minutes. Wondering
2002 U320 36' Single axle  MOST MODED IN HISTORY SO MUCH ITS ALMOST ILLIGAL
2 slides ( living room and bedroom)
undisclosed
male
female
genderless
nonbinary
transgendered
 

Re: Domestic or whoever noisy , I am willing to experiment..

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Joe Phebus –
Blocking off the louver that allows direct air dump from the A/C made a huge difference for us.  There's a rather pricey product to do this: Dometic or GE RV A/C Silencer DA100 - WackOProducts.    However, while not as tidy I was able to accomplish the same with a roll of aluminum tape and some insulating foam. 

I blocked off the opening with the aluminum tape (as seen in video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r80BbAsr7cA), sealed other areas that air could leak into the intake area, added a thin layer of high density foam under the louver and replaced the existing cover.  Much quieter than before and the vents in the rooms are more efficient.  Not a solution if you actually use the louvers, but we never did so this works for us.

Other than a slight bulge under the louver in the cover, it looks the same and the external vent output is much improved.

 



 
Yeah, that would work in your case but remember I have a non ducted ceiling...and not an option for me

Quote from: NevadaBornRvR –
Isnt there a thermometer on the coil that you move around to accommodate it freezing? Not sure on Furion but have seen on others and it usually just needs moved so the Compressor knows its cold and to shut off for a few minutes. Wondering

Yes there is, it being the freeze sensor I was asking about. I need to know the ohms it would read if checked with a meter

Ralph
96 U270