Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 09, 2025 ...

Finally done with utility bay renovations for now... This is going to be a lengthy fairly detailed post in multiple parts with lots of pictures and links. Utterly boring to anyone not contemplating doing something similar so feel free to skip altogether or just browse the pictures. Me, I just love looking at pictures of other's coach projects or repairs... it is a sickness, LOL. This project was actually comprised of several projects grouped by proximity that have been on my list for sometime, along with relocating the Progressive Industries hard wired EMS from underneath the bed into the utility compartment. This last one was added recently when the noise  (60 cycle hum) interfered with the sleep patterns of my better half. My tinnitus actually masked the sound pretty well... Anyway, other projects came online as in "while you are there, you may as well..." Famous last words!
So the projects included;
1. Relocating the third valve behind the utility panel and WasteMaster (Polychute) Camlock Sewer Hose installation.
Products | Drain Master
2. Installing Glendinning HoseMaster Model M freshwater hose reel
Model M - Glendinning Products, LLC.
3. Sewer hose storage, shelf for Powercord reel.
4. The aforementioned EMS relocation.
5. Installing Glendinning CableMaster CRR-50 & new Furrion Stainless Steel shore power inlet fixture
CRR-50 - Glendinning Products, LLC.
F52INS-SS - Power Inlets - Marine Shore Power - Electrical
6. Install New T&S Brass faucet (wall mount with 4" centers) & Re-plumb fresh water filter behind Utility Panel, Teed into city water fill line T&S 5F-4WLX06 Equip 6 1/8" Wall Mount Swivel Faucet with 4" Centers

First was step was take out the five screws holding the utility bay shelf, which acts as a cover for the waste pipes. Accessing my waste plumbing was so easy, I almost twisted my arm patting myself on the back for designing it that way. I had secured the third valve by way of a three inch rubber coupling which made that quite easy as well. Of course I dumped the tanks and flushed the pipes before starting any of this because I didn't know how long it might take to finish the project. I closed the two main valves which I replaced back when finishing my bulkhead repair project, so no leaking there.
 
I replaced the third valve even though it was fairly new and not leaking because they are cheap and I needed to use a slip joint hub to join it to the waste piping because there just wasn't enough room to use the rubber coupling. So I bought the valve, and two female 3" slip hubs from local sources but I will include links to show the parts I used where appropriate.
Amazon.com: Valterra T1003VPM Bladex 3" Waste Valve Body with Metal Handle:
Amazon.com: Valterra T1005 3" Slip Hub Flange: Automotive
Next, I had to cut the black 3" sewer pipe stub coming out of the 90 degree coupling that is joined to tank waste valves. This part was a little nerve wracking because if I cut it to short, I would have to remove the entire waste valve assembly and rebuild it out of the coach. Pretty difficult to do while you are living in the coach! If I didn't cut it quite enough, I would have to try cutting a very short section of 3" pipe in very tight quarters. As it turned out, that is what I ended up doing.... One tip for doing this sort of thing is to use a hose clamp as a cutting guide. Not great for the saw blade, but at least you can be sure not to cut more than you plan for. It also makes for a squarer cut which is even more crucial when you are solvent welding pipe with less than the optimum overlap. I had to shorten the slip hub by half an inch to make this work in this confined space. I managed to get the slip hub solvent welded to the short stub coming from the valve assembly and then had to get the valve body bolted together. It was quite a pain to get the nut started on the lower corner next to the compartment wall, but applying some double stick tape to the end of my finger and then sticking the nut to it let me get that bolt started.

I also had to shorten the other slip hub on the outside of the valve so it would end up flush with the utility panel outside face so that the sewer hose camlock female fitting would sit right against the panel. This was the only result that would allow the sewer hose to make the bend through the hatch and still close the compartment door. I also had to shorten the slip hub of the female camlock fitting. Also a bit nerve wracking because it took about two weeks for me to get the first one from Wastemaster.

Still, cutting the slip hubs was much easier than the waste valve assembly stub because I could hold it in a vice and use my hose clamp as a guide. There were numerous test fittings before applying the ABS glue to the inner most slip hub and welding it to the waste valve assembly stub. Next up is bolt the valve assembly together behind the panel and then finally glue a 3" stub into the Camlock coupling slip hub.

I then cut the end of that stub so that there is just enough left to seat into the outer slip hub of the third valve assembly so that the camlock can be tight to the panel. Once that is done, I let it set up and check for leaks. By this time a couple of days have passed and there is waste in the tanks. I did the grey partially first when check for leaks (for obvious reasons:)), then the black. Success, all is good! This concludes the Wastemaster Camlock sewer hose system install. The storage part of it is part of the Power Cord reel install and detailed there.
More to come in Part two...
Don