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Topic: Water pump “cycling” (Read 1278 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Water pump “cycling”

Reply #20 –
Glen,

That fill valve is different than the brass Parker valve that is on earlier coaches. The thread that I posted long ago won't help you a lot as the 2 valves are built differently. The thing is though you can take that one you have apart and give it a good cleaning. With it being made of some tyle of plastic you won't have as bad of a calcium build up as those of us that have the old style brass one. You are more than likely to find a bolder/sand grain or a cracked diaphragm than any thin else once you remove the bonnet. With out isolation valves you will need to drain the fresh water tank so you don't flood the village when you remove the valve.  You will need to remove the nut you see on the top of the valve coil to remove the coil.  Just lift it off and lay it to the side then you can take the valve out to service.

Mike

Re: Water pump “cycling”

Reply #21 –
OK. Getting closer.
The sensor for the Javalina system has been replaced by a Sensa Tank system so is a non issue.
Looking at my picture of the fill valve, walk me through how I should proceed to open it up to see if there is an internal problem. Or should I wait til I return to the states?

I just read the above after I posted this
Thanks

Re: Water pump “cycling”

Reply #22 –
Quote from: GleamB –
Long term...???
I asked if I can tackle trying to repair the solenoid without emptying the fresh water tank.
We turn the pump off, as mentioned.
Funny that you mention the pump.  A leaky check valve in the pump will cause the same symptom as will a leaky check valve at the city water connection.  At the latter you'll see the leak, the former not so much so.

Re: Water pump “cycling”

Reply #23 –
Ya, several potential "points of failure":

Pump check valve-- no external leak. Pressure just bleeds off as water flows back to tank.

Fill valve-- no external leak.

Shore water inlet check valve-- drips/leaks water (leak only, no "recycle" of water back to the tank).

Yes, a fourth would be any other leak in the system would cause pump to cycle, but would not "recycle" water back to tank.

Re: Water pump “cycling”

Reply #24 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
Shore water inlet check valve-- drips/leaks water (leak only, no "recycle" of water back to the tank).

Does GleamB have one the Shur-Flo 3-chamber wobble pumps?  If the answer is yes, it might be time to place an order for a new one.

Ever since we moved in our shore water inlet has had a 1/4 turn ball valve shut off backstopping the check valve.  It's on my list of things to do, but I'm old enough and knowledgeable enough to know that once I touch that check valve I'm in it to the end.

Re: Water pump “cycling”

Reply #25 –
It's a new pump. I agree. If I open it up here, Murphy is waiting around the corner. I'll wait.

Re: Water pump “cycling”

Reply #26 –
Quote from: GleamB –
It's a new pump. I agree. If I open it up here, Murphy is waiting around the corner. I'll wait.
I like that "It's a new pump" as if that weren't the first thing that I'd go back and check.  The best time to introduce contaminants or dislodge existing problems waiting to happen  is during all that goes into breaking the system open and installing something new.

Off to the cath lab.  Better than food and coffee.
 

Re: Water pump “cycling”

Reply #27 –
Quote from: Old Toolmaker –
I like that "It's a new pump" as if that weren't the first thing that I'd go back and check.  The best time to introduce contaminants or dislodge existing problems waiting to happen  is during all that goes into breaking the system open and installing something new.

Off to the cath lab.  Better than food and coffee.
Cath lab? Diagnostic or ?