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Topic: alternator removal & reinstall (Read 282 times) previous topic - next topic

alternator removal & reinstall

I have to take my alternator to get it checked out and possibly rebuilt, It looks fairly straight forward to remove and reinstall.  I remember watching the guys at FOT wrestle this alternator to put it on and thinking I'm glad they're doing this and not me. Is this a two man job or something I can do myself? I'm not super mechanical, but I certainly am willing to try. Any help with the proper steps is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Michael & Roxene, Aussie the wonder dog & his daughter Luna the lunatic.
1993 Grand Villa Unihome 280 build #4203
36' 8.3 Cummins 300 hp- 2001 Chevrolet Tracker toad

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #1 –
So why do you think you need to remove? Not putting out voltage? There are a handful of things to check before you remove.

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #2 –
Charge sense wire? Alternator cable? Isolator operation, batteries, grounds? What is your specific problem?

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #3 –
Yup, what are the symptoms that led you to conclude that the alternator needs to be removed/overhauled/replace??
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #4 –
Do what Scott said first, make sure it is the alternator. Yes it is straight forward to remove it. The sense
wire will be hot so take care with that and if you have a diode isolator the battery cable will be dead
but make sure with a voltmeter or a test light. I have removed the alternator from the 8.3 and the M11
and the M11 IS easier. Also when doing your testing I have missed getting a voltage reading because
of corrosion so scratch had to get a reading.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #5 –
This was my original post a month ago:
the topic was - Isolator
Having alternator charging issues, had mine replaced @ FOT 2 years ago, but now output is only 2.9V. I have had conversations w/ Red Tractor for diagnosis and it points to the alternator. The isolator and corresponding solenoids look pretty rough, I'm thinking they are original. Going to take the alternator to a local shop for testing and repair if neccessary. Looking @ Victron isolators- I have 2 AGM Deka house batteries and 2 start batteries. I have @ '93 280 with the 8.3. My boost solenoid appears to be bad so I ordered a new one. The whole isolator area looks weathered and worn so it's overdue for replacement components. Looking for advice for the isolator replacement- the ones I looked at say 2 batteries? do I need 4 battery isolator? I've been studying the forum to educate myself plus the invaluable help from Red Tractor, but it can be a little overwhelming! TIA
Michael & Roxene, Aussie the wonder dog & his daughter Luna the lunatic.
1993 Grand Villa Unihome 280 build #4203
36' 8.3 Cummins 300 hp- 2001 Chevrolet Tracker toad

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #6 –
if you can tell me how to create a link to the post, I'll do that so you can see everything that was given to me and some of the answers
Michael & Roxene, Aussie the wonder dog & his daughter Luna the lunatic.
1993 Grand Villa Unihome 280 build #4203
36' 8.3 Cummins 300 hp- 2001 Chevrolet Tracker toad

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #7 –
Mike;  I removed mine a couple of years ago and brought it into an electric company that rebuilds all types.  Looked like a new Alternator when I picked it up.  New brushes, bearings, etc.  Just wanted to have it refreshed so no issues on the road.  I was 75 when I did that repair and easy to do.  Just make sure you tape the hot wire to keep from sparks, etc.  Oh, cost was $75 with VA discount!  Happy Camper!
Joe & Dottie Allen
Sold!  December 2023.      2000 U320; build # 5645
Our coach " Maxine"
Motorcade #  15922;  Escapee 150950; FMCA F330833; Boondockers Welcome;  Harvest Hosts;  Thousand Trails
'98 U320 from 2000-'06
USAF '62-'66

"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." ―Epicurus

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #8 –
The link to my original post
isolator
Michael & Roxene, Aussie the wonder dog & his daughter Luna the lunatic.
1993 Grand Villa Unihome 280 build #4203
36' 8.3 Cummins 300 hp- 2001 Chevrolet Tracker toad

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #9 –
The isolator needs to be sized for the alternator. I changed out my diode 200 amp isolator for a
Blue Sea isolator and they have a 120 amp isolator which wasn't heavy enough as my alternator
is 160 amps so I installed there 500 amp isolator.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #10 –
Many of us have gone to the Delco remy 280i,in my opinion a better alternator,you can have yours rebuilt but it's only as good as
the parts they don't replace.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.
 

Re: alternator removal & reinstall

Reply #12 –
Another vote for the Delco. They are very common and so future alt problems aren't going to leave you waiting for parts for the old leece nevile. Just be sure and size the alternator amperage output to your existing cables. The 320 came with the 160 amp alt but cables are good to 180 amp. So that's what I did. Also installed a new relay based 'sterling' water proof isolator. This was in 2016 or so.  But most are opting for the victron stuff these days. The Sterlings are good though.
Jerry & Nona and Kimeru the cat that thinks she's a dog
1998 36' WTFE U320  #5314 Motorcade #17711
USAF 1975-1995
2019 Subaru Crosstrek 'toad'
2003 Subaru Legacy touring car
jerry Fincher | Flickr