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Topic: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power] (Read 1506 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #50 –
Quote from: Peter –
I do not know what a .100" jumper is, nor do I know how to instal it.
Suggestions?
Just looking at the somewhat blurry photo in the above linked manual, I would guess that they want you to take a short piece of single conductor wire, strip the insulation off both ends, and stick the bare wire ends in the the two holes on the black connector J1.  The wire will complete a circuit, thus disabling the time delay.  In electrical terminology, this is called a "shunt".  Definition below:

"An electrical conductor joining two points of a circuit, through which more or less of a current may be diverted."
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
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Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #51 –
The model I have is newer than the manual is showing for that.
When I pulled the card it says
"To bypass the delay short H1 or H2.  How do I do that. I have  attached a photo for reference
Peter    Alberta Canada
'98 U320 40'  Build 5359 M11 450 HP, Aqua hot, Blu Ox

Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #52 –
Another pic
Peter    Alberta Canada
'98 U320 40'  Build 5359 M11 450 HP, Aqua hot, Blu Ox

Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #53 –
Guessing drop a blob of solder to join the two solder connection contacts  on h2???
Peter    Alberta Canada
'98 U320 40'  Build 5359 M11 450 HP, Aqua hot, Blu Ox

Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #54 –
Quote from: Peter –
Guessing drop a blob of solder to join the two solder connection contacts  on h2???

It's normally done with a removable shunt/jumper header component (rectangular component that slips over the 2 pins and shorts them).  You just need to double-check the pin pitch (center-to-center spacing), although most breadboard connectors are standardized.

Amazon sells kits.  Here's one  Amazon.com: 620Pcs Jumper Wire Cable Pin Header Connector Housing Kit Male &...

Here's a 2.54mm pitch 2-pin jumper (well, 100 of them) Amazon.com: 2P 2-Pin 2.54mm Pitch Jumper for straight header - Blue - Pack...

This one's 2.0mm pitch Amazon.com: 2P 2-Pin 2.0mm Pitch Jumper for straight header - Pack of 100 :...
As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #55 –
To order them up would take some time Michelle and I don't think I would ever put it back to normal. Would the blob of solder joining the two solder points on H2 work?
Peter    Alberta Canada
'98 U320 40'  Build 5359 M11 450 HP, Aqua hot, Blu Ox

Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #56 –
Anything that shorts them together would work, so yes, a blob of solder should work okay.  Be careful with heat around the board (and excess solder) if you're not familiar with hand reworking PCB boards.  I only suggested the jumpers/shunts because I prefer changes that are easily reversible if you decide you don't like the result.

Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #57 –
It states "short H1 or H2, it appears that H2 already has a jumper plug installed. You could move it to H1 and see what happens. More information on this board would be helpful.

EDIT;
your second photo is much clearer, I couldn't tell what the white plug was on H2, it appears that is where the jumper should be, H1 doesn't look like it was meant to be jumpered by the user. Normally you don't have to get out a soldering iron to jump pins for selecting an option meant for the end user.
Justin & Cathy Byrd
1995 U280 "Old Faithful"
36' Build #4673
C8.3 Cummins
Allison MD3060R 6 speed - retarder
Powertech 10KW  4cyl Kubota

Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #58 –
I really did not have the time to wait for an Amazon order for the jumper and have no intentions of reversing it (if the shore/generator transfer switch fails I will purchase another PD 52) so I dropped a blob of solder on the H2 area and it worked! 
Project finished.  Inverter and plugs etc work great!
Peter    Alberta Canada
'98 U320 40'  Build 5359 M11 450 HP, Aqua hot, Blu Ox

Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #59 –
Quote from: FourTravelers –
It states "short H1 or H2, it appears that H2 already has a jumper plug installed. You could move it to H1 and see what happens. More information on this board would be helpful.

EDIT;
your second photo is much clearer, I couldn't tell what the white plug was on H2, it appears that is where the jumper should be, H1 doesn't look like it was meant to be jumpered by the user. Normally you don't have to get out a soldering iron to jump pins for selecting an option meant for the end user.

The Edit comment is spot on.

Just for completeness for anyone following along:

H1 was not populated.  H2 is populated with a "jumperable" connector.  You can't move the device from H2 to H1 without reflowing the solder pads beneath it (they will be identical to the "no-pop" 2 pads you see in the H1 location).  Reflowing surface mount solder pads is not for the typical user.

Most times when there is user-selectable function, a manufacturer will install a jumper on a "jumperable" connector, but only slide it onto one pin (the other side will be hanging off into the air, essentially).  That gives the user a jumper they can reposition if the manufacturer intended the customer to be able to change selections this way (customer typically being the OEM who contracted for the board to be built, not the "everyday retail person").

Michelle (printed circuit boards and assemblies are part of my past life)
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320
 

Re: Plugs for fridge not working on inverter [diagnosing no inverter power]

Reply #60 –
Agreed
If I had intentions of ever having a delay I would split the solder. I also would have waited for a delivery of the jumper.
Peter    Alberta Canada
'98 U320 40'  Build 5359 M11 450 HP, Aqua hot, Blu Ox