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Topic: Dump valve replacement, electric (Read 382 times) previous topic - next topic

Dump valve replacement, electric

2002 U320.  My gray tank dump valve was stuck shut.  I have the electric Drain Master valves. The gray valve has an access door in the wet bay.  These valves have a provision to insert an allen key to manually work the valve if the electric fails. The electric motor couldn't open the valve so I used the manual key.  I think I broke a tooth off of the gate in the valve when I forced the allen key the wrong direction.  So then the motor just runs with no motion.  I couldn't find any help on how to get the electric gate open, only manual valves.  They just cut the top off and pulled the gate out.  Before I did that I called Drain Master, and they had a better solution.  Cutting off the top of the gate slide area on these valves would create a huge leak.  They suggested to only drill a small hold down by the valve and pry the gate up a little with an ice pick or awl until the manual override can engage the next tooth. Then use the allen key to open.  It worked, but I had some liquid trying to come out of the drilled hole.  I used some duct tape but some sort of plug would be better. 
In the photos I show the wet bay with the top panel removed, then with the lower panel removed and the gray valve circled.  The last photo shows about where to drill the hole and pry up the gate. 
Has anyone replaced a valve in this location?  The valve is sitting right on the floor.  How did you reach the inboard lower bolt and nut?  It looks nearly impossible. 
Andy & Sue (and Sofie dog) + Lucy dog
2002 U320 4020
# 5959
TOAD 2014 CRV

Re: Dump valve replacement, electric

Reply #1 –
Our coaches are only 25 units apart and I have the same layout that you have.  Prior to purchasing my coach the selling dealer replaced my black tank valve which is on the curb side.  You are correct that the inboard lower nut is virtually impossible to access.  I know this because mine was leaking and I found that that nut was loose.  The dealer had drilled a hole with a holesaw through the basement floor in line with the nut to gain access and then just covered the hole with foil tape.  Rudimentary yes but it seems to work.  In spite of this they didn't tighten the nut enough so I finished the job for them.  I wonder if your valve was replaced prior because my original grey tank valve uses a flat screwdriver override and the new one uses the hex wrench like yours.  Unfortunately my grey tank valve has now failed and I have to operate it with a screwdriver but that vertical steel channel that's visible in your photo is directly in line with the override so I have to use a mini ratchting screw driver while reaching in through the small access door.  It's a bitch so I'll be installing new black and grey valves over the winter layup.  I'll be using the Drainmaster Pro Series which includes a new switch panel with greatly simplified switch wiring.  The original switch wiring is a nightmare to disconnect and it has to be disconnected to remove the cover panel.  The Pro Series switch is also a one touch momentary that activates the valve until it confirms it's position eliminating the guesswork of how long to hold the switch down.  Holding the switch down too long can also damage the valve so this is a welcome upgrade.  I will post some pictures of my valve swap when I get it done.
George Mann
2002 U320 #5934
2017 Rubicon
2013 BMW GS
Waterford MI

Re: Dump valve replacement, electric

Reply #2 –
I just did mine, a1/4" drive 7/16" chrome swivel socket with a 1/4" x 12" extension from the right hand side under the pipe. Pull the extension toward you under the pipe. Very tedious but can be done. I'm sure Drainmaster told you very loose to tighten only 1 turn past finger tight. Mine had both failed due to overtight. Jim. 
Jim and Dona
2002 U295 36'
Lily, blue healer. Our fury person
Manx mid travel Ecotec turbo
2022 Bronco badlands Sasquatch
Trail 90 and 110cc

Re: Dump valve replacement, electric

Reply #3 –

Here is what I use, a 1/4" flexible extension like this one with a short socket
ARES 42073 4-Piece Flexible Socket Extension Set

Mike

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Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Dump valve replacement, electric

Reply #4 –
You just have to get creative with what wrenches to use. I have several combinations that I use depending on how accessible the valves are. Definitely a challenge.
previous 1984 35 ft ORED 250 HP 3208 Cat       
previous 1998 40 ft U295 CAI 325 hp Cummins
previous 2003 40 Ft u320 build #6140 450 Cummins M11.                                                         
1999 Mazda Miata
Ron, Nancy, Tipper the cat, Max The dog
1997 U 270 36 ft build number 5174 8.3 Cummins

Re: Dump valve replacement, electric

Reply #5 –
I got the valve off and the new one installed.  I used the 1/4" flex and extensions and transitioned to my 3/8" drive. I put it under the pipe and guided it with my other hand. Super tight space there for my hand.  Getting that nut started was a PITA. I may need to borrow the neighbor kid to do it again.  Just need to torque it up to 10 in-lbs.  I'm guessing that it had been replaced at least once before in its lifetime.
Mine has the four wires so the new valve is the Premium one.  Now I wish I also ordered the 4 pin mating connector. The old one was hardwired and it would be nice to have a connector instead.
Andy & Sue (and Sofie dog) + Lucy dog
2002 U320 4020
# 5959
TOAD 2014 CRV

Re: Dump valve replacement, electric

Reply #6 –
Quote from: Pamela & Mike –
Here is what I use, a 1/4" flexible extension like this one with a short socket
ARES 42073 4-Piece Flexible Socket Extension Set

Mike

Ooh, that's going in my basket.  I only have the short 1/4" one.
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Andy & Sue (and Sofie dog) + Lucy dog
2002 U320 4020
# 5959
TOAD 2014 CRV

Re: Dump valve replacement, electric

Reply #7 –
Quote from: Geodmann –
Our coaches are only 25 units apart and I have the same layout that you have.  Prior to purchasing my coach the selling dealer replaced my black tank valve which is on the curb side.  You are correct that the inboard lower nut is virtually impossible to access.  I know this because mine was leaking and I found that that nut was loose.  The dealer had drilled a hole with a holesaw through the basement floor in line with the nut to gain access and then just covered the hole with foil tape.  Rudimentary yes but it seems to work.  In spite of this they didn't tighten the nut enough so I finished the job for them.  I wonder if your valve was replaced prior because my original grey tank valve uses a flat screwdriver override and the new one uses the hex wrench like yours.  Unfortunately my grey tank valve has now failed and I have to operate it with a screwdriver but that vertical steel channel that's visible in your photo is directly in line with the override so I have to use a mini ratchting screw driver while reaching in through the small access door.  It's a bitch so I'll be installing new black and grey valves over the winter layup.  I'll be using the Drainmaster Pro Series which includes a new switch panel with greatly simplified switch wiring.  The original switch wiring is a nightmare to disconnect and it has to be disconnected to remove the cover panel.  The Pro Series switch is also a one touch momentary that activates the valve until it confirms it's position eliminating the guesswork of how long to hold the switch down.  Holding the switch down too long can also damage the valve so this is a welcome upgrade.  I will post some pictures of my valve swap when I get it done.

George. Does that Drainmaster Pro Series have just the one switch panel. I've looked at the one with two panels, just haven't pulled the trigger yet
Robert and Susan
 1995 36' 280 WTBI 8.3 3060r
 1200 watts on the roof, 720 Ah of lithium's
 Build # 4637. Motorcade # 17599
        FMCA  # 451505
        18  Wrangler JLUR

Re: Dump valve replacement, electric

Reply #8 –
This kit has one switch panel which is all i need because I only ever operate the dump valve from the driver side wet bay.  They also offer the kit with two switch panels.  The power feed goes directly to the valves and the valve communicates with the switch with a plug and play ip66 waterproof rj11 phone type jack.  Super slick.  I don't love the price but then again I don't love the price of any of this...  I do love the coach though, especially when I fire up the engine.  In spite of the cost I would still never go with cable operated valves especially since the black valve is on the curb side.

Pro-Series S3VT Kit [2 Valves 6002] | Drain Master RV
George Mann
2002 U320 #5934
2017 Rubicon
2013 BMW GS
Waterford MI

Re: Dump valve replacement, electric

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Geodmann –
I don't love the price but then again I don't love the price of any of this...

At least it has a 5 year warranty.
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago
 

Re: Dump valve replacement, electric

Reply #10 –
I cracked open the old valve.  It is screwed and glued closed. The gate was barely tall enough to engage with the drive gear as shown in the photos.  I probably broke the corner off trying to open the wrong direction. FYI, if you look closely at the outside of one it shows the direction for open and close.  It wasn't obvious peering through the little access door.  I marked the new valve with a silver sharpy pen.  Silver pens are great for marking on dark surfaces.
Andy & Sue (and Sofie dog) + Lucy dog
2002 U320 4020
# 5959
TOAD 2014 CRV