Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 11, 2025 ...

If not installing Starlink router in rear of coach, why not run antenna cable along top of roof into fridge vent instead of running it forward inside coach which can be more work and make it harder if new cable is required in future. Hole size ¾" could be large enough to make a great weather seal a challenge. If drilling roof, use electronic stud finder to keep away from metal studs. After that it is just thin materials, like fiberglass, foam, wood, etc. Slobber cable and hole with sealant. Would be better to use smaller hole for cable and later add cable terminal. Another alternative is to feed cable into coach via the engine/rear camera air intake which is accessible from inside coach behind wood panel in top of bed cabinet. If Starlink antenna is permanent mounted so it can be used mobile, how is it attached, or if planning to use rear ladder, know it could make the dangerous climb onto roof more dangerous. Starlink seems to be a moving target when it comes up with new better equipment and more flexible mobile plans. Plan for upgrades as you may find their internet addictive.

Right next to where the aftermarket Air Con condensation drain line penetrates the roof then drains down to rear of coach.

I'm curious about the "Air Con" condensation drain lines.  Are these used with the Dometic Duo Therms?  If so how do they connect to the rooftop units?

Roof Air condensation pan on the roof has a place where water drains out the side and flows over the roof usually flowing over the side of the coach. Some experimentation was to add a plastic pipe on top of roof with a hose that connects to the place where the water leaves the condensation pan. Then drill a hole into the top of the end cap and connect another hose or elbow from the plastic pipe into the end cap, with the idea to let condensation water empty into the open end-cap space which is open to the ground. Problems can occur with clogs in the plastic pipe and the hoses connected to the plastic pipe which is just lying on the roof. Water also does not necessarily drain well as the plastic pipe is not slanted enough for gravity to do a good job. Coach level may also contribute to lack of good water flow. Assume that dumping water into the space around the roof air vent vertical pipe could make a mess. Condensation drain pan can overflow out the curbside or streetside, and using the plastic pipe to divert water to the rear cap seems to require closing off the drain overflow on the 'other' side so it all goes to the plastic pipe. Also, condensation water that does not easily leave the drain pan may backup and flow into interior of coach. Be interesting to hear success stories of using the end cap drain and wonder if some roof air conditioners are designed for improved controlling the flow of condensate water. Not familiar how much Foretravel built coaches with end cap drains.

We bought the coach in 2016 with the drain lines already installed. Zero issues other than replacing the long drain hoses from the AC units to the rear (due to weather degradation of the hoses).

2. I have only used the electric block heater twice in 8 years, and was planning to unplug it then use the outlet for the starlink power.  Just realized that outlet is not on the inverter. Instead of modifying main power/inveter wiring I can run a 4 to 5' extension cord from headboard area of bed around to foot to power the starlink. It will be up and attached to the side of bed platform out of the way, not a trip hazard.

There should be another a/c outlet, in the bed puka, drinker's side, for the Bose remote speakers.  It's powered by the inverter.

The starlink is second fiddle compared to how clean that roof is!