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Topic: Drag Link (Read 625 times) previous topic - next topic

Drag Link

I have an 08' Foretravel Nimbus. I had it in for fluid service at Cummins Coach Care in Spokane. The tech showed me where the rubber boots were just about gone on the greasable joints on both ends. He said the drag link has been discontinued. Can you just replace the greaseable joints? The rest is just a steel bar. Has anyone done this before? Is it a big job that requires special tools? I would think you could just keep putting grease in to keep the dirt out.
2008 Nimbus 342
Build# 6464
ISM 500
Allison 4000 w/retarder
2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Re: Drag Link

Reply #1 –
If the ends are still good (no slop) you can just instill new boots. 
Here is there part number L24VC0109
If you want to install new ends they are readily available

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Drag Link

Reply #2 –
The boots have been gone on mine for years. Just keep them greased good.
Bruce, Linda, and Macy
Zoey RIP 1/20/19
1999 U295 40' build #5400
2017 silver Jeep Wrangler, 1260 watts of solar on top
Moving around the country

Re: Drag Link

Reply #3 –
I would like to replace my grease boots on the drag link and the tie rod.  Anyone done this that can speak to how difficult it is to get the joints separated and what tie rod separator tool works for these joints?
George Mann
2002 U320 #5934
2017 Rubicon
2013 BMW GS
Waterford MI

Re: Drag Link

Reply #4 –
Quote from: Geodmann –
1. Anyone done this that can speak to how difficult it is to get the joints separated
2.  what tie rod separator tool works for these joints?

1. Done several and it isn't too bad. You don't need a pit but you will need to raise coach up and block.
2. Now I'm not joking or pulling your leg but the tool of choice is a #4 hammer and small pry bar. Once you remove the cotter pin and loosen castle nut almost off (don't remove the nut yet as if you do you may need a dentist appointment) take a small pry bar and put between the 2 bars. Take your hammer and give the joint a good solid whack on the female joint side. Done right one whack and the taper will release. Now take off the castle nut off and you still have all your teeth.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Drag Link

Reply #5 –
So this is the boot y'all are talking about, right?  If so, do you know the torque spec for the castle nut upon replacement?

Keith
2003 U320 38' #6197

Re: Drag Link

Reply #6 –
I just replaced both ends on my drag link  ( front one had some slop) both boots were horrible). I used a 2 jaw puller to get the one on off the pitman arm. The back one I used a bottle jack to apply pressure and whacked it with a hammer. I believe the torque is 160 ft lbs. I would trust what Mike says. I got the parts from find it parts about $55.00 each for the ends.  And yes that picture is the drag link connected to the pitman arm.
Tom and Michelle 2004 U270 36WTFS

Re: Drag Link

Reply #7 –
I got the part numbers on this old thread here on the forum. The parts were right for my 2004.
Tom and Michelle 2004 U270 36WTFS

Re: Drag Link

Reply #8 –
I verified that mine are 1.25", but do you remember if the front one (on the pitman arm) is the RH or LH thread?  I only need the one.
Keith
2003 U320 38' #6197

Re: Drag Link

Reply #9 –
I'm sorry I don't remember.
Tom
Tom and Michelle 2004 U270 36WTFS

Re: Drag Link

Reply #10 –
Why not change both ends,the one your not changing can't be too far from failing,it's been on there as long as the bad one.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.
 

Re: Drag Link

Reply #11 –
Both of my boots were bad. But I had some slop in the front one. So I changed them both.  You can just change the rubber boot.
Tom
Tom and Michelle 2004 U270 36WTFS