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Fuel transfer pump

I have a mechanical 8.3 on my 98FT
The fuel transfer pump it's leaking and causes the requirement to prime every time I start the engine and recently the engine start dying after less than one minute
Anyway, I do have a comments Pump purchased my question is is it easier to be replaced from inside the RV under the mattress or I have to crawl under the engine?
Edmond
1998 U295
Edmond
1998 Foretravel U295
Turlock Ca

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #1 –
Sorry, I was using speech typing, and there is a print of comments instead of Cummins
Sorry




[ quote author=rvquestion link=msg=498255 date=1751494444]
I have a mechanical 8.3 on my 98FT
The fuel transfer pump it's leaking and causes the requirement to prime every time I start the engine and recently the engine start dying after less than one minute
Anyway, I do have a comments Pump purchased my question is is it easier to be replaced from inside the RV under the mattress or I have to crawl under the engine?
Edmond
1998 U295
[/quote]
Edmond
1998 Foretravel U295
Turlock Ca

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #2 –
On top, you have to remove a banjo bolt on the line anyway.
1994 U280
Build #4451
"If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking"

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #3 –
Quote from: rvquestion –
...is is it easier to be replaced from inside the RV under the mattress or I have to crawl under the engine?
It might be easier for some to reach the lift pump from the top, but I did ours from the bottom.  Put the coach up on safety stands, of course, then I crawled under and half sat up to reach the pump.  It's not a totally pleasant job either way, but entirely doable.

Fuel System Science Project

One thing that will make your job much easier is to use studs, rather than the stock bolts, to mount the new pump.

If you use the stock bolts, you have to hold the pump in place against a fairly strong spring tension to get the bolts started.  Way too easy to get them cross threaded.

In contrast, you can screw studs into the holes very easily and snug them up.  Then the lift pump simply rests on the studs while you start the mounting nuts.  The spring is compressed as you run the nuts down evenly, and the pump secured.  EASY!

LarryB's EASY Stud Mounting Kit for Lift Transfer pump for 12 valve Cu
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #4 –
Have your fuel lines been replaced?  It's more likely that the fuel lines are the problem, not the fuel supply pump. I know. I have a 1998 and changing the pump didn't fix the problem. Right around 20-24 years the fuel lines start leaking and letting air in.

Here is my temporary solution. A high pressure cheap fuel injection pump I valve in for priming and start.


1998 U270 34'

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #5 –
the fuel transfer pump is leaking fuel that is why i am replacing it
hoping that is the source , if not , i may end up replacing the hose
edmond
1998 u295
Edmond
1998 Foretravel U295
Turlock Ca

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #6 –
I can go under and figure it out. What kind of wrenches do I need , but I like to know by disconnecting the fuel lines do I have some kind of buckets to collect a few coming out of the lines?
I took a picture from my lift pump. It has been mounted with studs already.
I read from one member to be careful not to drop something while installing the new pump
I don't recall what he meant
Do I have to be careful removing it something may drop off?
Chuck , by the way, I like to ask you how do I attach pictures in my posting?
When I click on the  ADD FILES  it does not give me the link to open my photo gallery


Edmond
1998 U295


Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
It might be easier for some to reach the lift pump from the top, but I did ours from the bottom.  Put the coach up on safety stands, of course, then I crawled under and half sat up to reach the pump.  It's not a totally pleasant job either way, but entirely doable.

Fuel System Science Project

One thing that will make your job much easier is to use studs, rather than the stock bolts, to mount the new pump.

If you use the stock bolts, you have to hold the pump in place against a fairly strong spring tension to get the bolts started.  Way too easy to get them cross threaded.

In contrast, you can screw studs into the holes very easily and snug them up.  Then the lift pump simply rests on the studs while you start the mounting nuts.  The spring is compressed as you run the nuts down evenly, and the pump secured.  EASY!

LarryB's EASY Stud Mounting Kit for Lift Transfer pump for 12 valve Cu
Edmond
1998 Foretravel U295
Turlock Ca

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #7 –
Edmond, I think you need to touch on the words " selecting them". At least that's what I do on my iPad.
Richard & Betty Bark & Keiko our Golden Doodle
2003 U320T 3820 PBDS
Build # 6215
MC # 16926
2016 Chevrolet Colorado 4X4 diesel

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #8 –
Quote from: rvquestion –
1.  disconnecting the fuel lines do I have some kind of buckets to collect...

2.  I took a picture from my lift pump. It has been mounted with studs already.

3.  I read from one member to be careful not to drop something...Do I have to be careful removing it something may drop off?

4.  how do I attach pictures in my posting?  When I click on ADD FILES it does not give me the link to open my photo gallery
1.  As I recall very little fuel came out of the lines when I disconnected them.  I think having a few rags handy will suffice.

2.  If your pump is already mounted on studs that is good.

3.  I don't know what that would be, unless it is possible for the push rod to fall out of the pump?  I don't recall that being a problem.

4.  As Richard said you click on the words "selecting them" which are highlighted by a lighter shaded box.  The box is hard to see on some screens.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #9 –
Ok thank you
I don't see any safety blocks in my RV
Do the 2x2 tubings have to have quarter inch thick wall?
Or 1/8" walls

Edmond
1998 U295
Edmond
1998 Foretravel U295
Turlock Ca

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #10 –
Chuck is it just a simple swap ? Remove old lift pump and install the new one?
No adjustment or timing?
Any adjustment on the push rod?

Edmond
1998 U295
Edmond
1998 Foretravel U295
Turlock Ca

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #11 –
Quote from: rvquestion –
Do the 2x2 tubings have to have quarter inch thick wall?
I presented my suggestion for safety stands in the recent thread on that subject (link below).  The hitch extensions from Harbor Freight work great.  You can probably find some kind of similar material in your area, but I can't comment on the suitability of other material because I am not a steel tube expert.

Safety blocks
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #12 –
Quote from: rvquestion –
Chuck is it just a simple swap ? Remove old lift pump and install the new one?
No adjustment or timing?
Any adjustment on the push rod?
Yes, it is a simple swap.  Nothing to adjust.

After the new lift pump is installed and fuel lines connected, you will probably need to push on the rubber manual priming button on the lift pump several times.  It will push in with little effort initially, but after several pushes your should start to feel some increasing resistance.  This will indicate that the fuel lines have been purged of air.  After that, the engine should start right up with minimal cranking.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #13 –
Isn't it better to put at least four blocks on the inner side when rv is in storage for longer time? This could extend the life of the airbags i think

Thank you chuck for all the answers you are giving

Edmond 1998 U295



Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
I presented my suggestion for safety stands in the recent thread on that subject (link below).  The hitch extensions from Harbor Freight work great.  You can probably find some kind of similar material in your area, but I can't comment on the suitability of other material because I am not a steel tube expert.

Safety blocks
Edmond
1998 Foretravel U295
Turlock Ca
 

Re: Fuel transfer pump

Reply #14 –
Quote from: rvquestion –
Isn't it better to put at least four blocks on the inner side when rv is in storage for longer time?
I'm not sure what you are asking.  If you wish to use safety stands when your coach is in storage, then feel free.

The standard Forum recommended safety stand placement is one stand next to each air bag, for a total of 8 stands.

Safety Stand Placement
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"