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Yet Another Victron installation ( YAVI )

multiplus0.jpg We decided it was time to retire our aging Xantrex ProSine 2.5 inverter/charger in favor of something more modern. While we were at it, we also wanted to upgrade our Heliotrope RV-30DE solar charge controller and replace the 100-watt solar panel. After researching various options, we chose a Victron-based system as we liked the features as well as many system components they offer.

We're not off-grid diehards or long-term boondockers, so our install is not a solar panel, battery capacity, 48V, juggernaut. Our focus was on updated functionality, quality, and integration.  Not an expert of any sorts, so this was a learn as you go, took more time than I care to discuss, and mistakes were made!

Step One: Choose Components, Understand Connections, and Plan the Layout
First, a huge thank you to @T and M Long  for sharing their Victron schematic. It served as our Rosetta Stone, mapping out essential connections, recommended wire sizes, and communication lines that ensure all components integrate and operate correctly. Without that I'd still be reading the Victron manuals and looking at their often mind numbing schematics.  With the Rosetta in hand, and a credit card with plenty of headroom, we started ordering parts.

Parts
Here is a run down of what we purchased, I've linked some of them to the vendors' websites.



Vendors
We used several vendors to find the best pricing we could. You really have to shop around, look for sales, find coupons, see if they charge sales tax, shipping costs, etc. Here is the short list of where we purchased the majority of the above items for this project.


Budget
giphy.gif Let's just say... "Make it rain" pretty much sums up the cost.

Layout
Figuring out where to place various components took some time. There are A BUNCH of inspiring installations on the site, I looked at many of those to get ideas. Since we have a 36' I tended to look for installs done in 34-36' coaches. I also wanted to keep most of items out of the interior, again at 36' giving up a closet was not really an option for us especially after the Splendide we added already consumed 1/4 of our closet space.

One install that I found interesting was by @floridarandy  New Energy and Facelift for Ole Red as it showed using the area above the house batteries. Another good area would be the propane bay if you have removed the tank (we have not .. yet)

The DC wiring to Multiplus was as straight forward as it could be. Change from the OEM 3/0 to 4/0 and routing it to new locations.

The AC wiring was more complex. Our existing setup had the generator and shore power (both with 6/3G Romex) running to the foot of the bed, where the transfer switches, Progressive EMS, and main breaker panels were located. The old ProSine used two lines: a 12/2G for charger input and a 10/2G for inverter output, neither suitable for the MultiPlus II, which requires 6/3G for both in and out.

AC Wiring Options
There were two options to consider.

Option A:
I came across several posts that described running two 6/4 SOOW or SJOOW cables (Much like your shore cord) from the inverter bay, through the rear bulkhead, along the chassis underbelly—above the transmission—and up into the compartment behind the bed. In that setup, one line connects to the output of the shore/gen transfer switch (becoming your inverter IN), while the other feeds the main breaker (your inverter OUT). The path is already packed with factory wiring, hoses, and conduits, so there are plenty of existing supports and pathways to secure the new cables along the way.

Option B (Our Choice):
multiplus1.jpg Instead, I cut the generator's 6/3G Romex in the utility bay—just before it entered the space under the closet. I then pulled the end coming from the generator back into the inverter bay, where it now connects to the transfer switch as the generator input (same function, new location).

multiplus3.jpg The other end of the cut cable was used to pull a new run of 6/3G from the inverter bay, through the closet floor, and into the under-bed cable channel. This new run connects to the main breaker as the inverter output. I opted for a continuous cable rather than splicing, to avoid extra connections.

The 6/3G Romex that ran from the shore junction box to the breaker panel was also rerouted. I pulled it back from the foot of the bed and into the inverter bay, where it now connects to the transfer switch as the shore input, the same function it had, just now in a new location.

multiplus2.jpg I moved the main transfer switch and progressive EMS to be with the inverter, removing it from the foot of the bed. The second transfer switch (also located in the bed area) is no longer needed and was removed, its function is handled by the Multiplus II

multiplus4.jpg To improve access, we did remove the upper cable raceway and supported everything while we worked on the connections. This was also a great time to remove few mouse nests, stank, and remains that were in the raceway (nasty stuff)

Notes & Summary
  • We now have a single 6/3G Romex running from the inverter bay to the foot of the bed. The original (2) two 6/3G lines, that had ran to the foot of the bed, now run to the relocated transfer switch. No lines are run outside the coach and all the AC lines are grouped together. The old ProSine 12/2G & 10/2G lines were disconnected and left in place for any future needs.
  • multiplus5.jpg To reroute cables through the closet floor, you must remove the floor panel, loosen clamps, and break the silicone around the cable passthroughs.  Here you can see the original (2) 6/3 lines (one to shore line and one to generator) that have been replaced with a single 6/3 that runs to the inverter bay.
  • Cable lube is a help when the pulling of the cables through those areas. The cable pulling and moving did not take even an hour.
  • An assistant to help field questions like, "Can you see which line is moving?", "Try pulling now... wait, not that one!", "I'm stuck can you help me get out of here?", "That stain/scratch must have been there already.", "Did you take my 10mm socket?" is also a great help and adds to the fun.

I'll attempt cover the inverter bay wiring and mounting setup that we did in another post.
2000 / 36' / U320 / WTFE
WildEBeest / "Striving to put right what once went wrong"

Re: Yet Another Victron Installation (YAVI)

Reply #1 –
I have attached a basic diagram of (most) of the AC wring.  It roughly shows what I tried to explain in Option B (what we did)
2000 / 36' / U320 / WTFE
WildEBeest / "Striving to put right what once went wrong"

Re: Yet Another Victron Installation (YAVI)

Reply #2 –
Thanks Steve, if my Xantrex SW 3012 ever dies I will have the blueprint to go Victron.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Yet Another Victron Installation (YAVI)

Reply #3 –
Quote from: steve –

Help me understand this inverter/charger

This charger inverter, will take in, up to, the full 50 amps of 120/240V shore power and supply the breaker boxe(s) with 50A 120/240V power
If no shore power or generator, the inverter (with power from batteries)
give you a max of 3,000 watts  to the coach breaker box, (both legs)?
If the max of 3,000 watts, it it then split between the phases?
Could you run 2,000 watts on one phase, say the AC unit, and then what ever else on either legs?
Would you have 240V at the panel while on inverter?  So you could run a 240V load up to a max of 3,000 watts?
What happens if on shore power, both AC's running and you lose shore power?
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago

Re: Yet Another Victron Installation (YAVI)

Reply #4 –
Quote from: turbojack –
Help me understand this inverter/charger
I need help with this myself, but I'll reply with my current understanding. I have limited experience with this unit so take my responses as I'm still learning its operations.

Quote from: turbojack –
This charger inverter, will take in, up to, the full 50 amps of 120/240V shore power and supply the breaker boxe(s) with 50A 120/240V power
Correct, when on 50amp split-phase it will pass through both legs

Quote from: turbojack –
If no shore power or generator, the inverter (with power from batteries) give you a max of 3,000 watts  to the coach breaker box, (both legs)?
That is my understanding.  I don't believe it differentiates between legs, it provides 3000 watts of max output (I believe 2400 continuous) and that will be distributed to where needed as L1 and L2 are bonded together internally.  So everything is on the inverter which is providing single phase 120V.

Quote from: turbojack –
If the max of 3,000 watts, it it then split between the phases?
Yes, 120V of single phase is available on L1 and L2, but a total of 3000W peak is available.

Quote from: turbojack –
Could you run 2,000 watts on one phase, say the AC unit, and then what ever else on either legs?
Yes

Quote from: turbojack –
Would you have 240V at the panel while on inverter?  So you could run a 240V load up to a max of 3,000 watts?
No, it does not deliver split phase from just the inverter (or on 30A shore), only when on 50A shore or on a generator setup to be split-phase.

Quote from: turbojack –
What happens if on shore power, both AC's running and you lose shore power?
You would get warm :D .... There maybe enough juice to keep running, it would try, but if you exceed the 3000W output it would shutdown with an over current error. 

An option would be to use the AC2 Out which is only active when shore/gen power is available.  You could attach items that would never run on inverter mode to that such as AC2.  Then if power went out, only things attached to AC1 remained powered (inverted) and items on AC2 would be off until shore power was restored.
2000 / 36' / U320 / WTFE
WildEBeest / "Striving to put right what once went wrong"

Re: Yet Another Victron Installation (YAVI)

Reply #5 –
It looks like this same inverter/charger can have 5,000 watts vs 3,000, What is the price difference between the two.  Would the no load overhead be the same?

If cost is not that much more I would think going with the 5,000W model would be a better deal since only cost increase would be the charger/inverter and you would be totally future proofed.
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago

Re: Yet Another Victron Installation (YAVI)

Reply #6 –
I don't believe the 12V 2x120 comes in anything other than a 3000 watt version.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Yet Another Victron Installation (YAVI)

Reply #7 –
Steve I think you have a pretty clear understanding of how it works! It is a lot to digest all the different scenarios. Also important to point out. The ability to boost 30 amp or 15 amp shore power. To be able to run both air conditioners etc with partial power coming from the batteries. Jack I don't know that they make the exact inverter in 5000 watts. You can also run 2 of the Multiplus II 2 x120 in parallel. But if you start doing that you would really need a large amount of solar and batteries to get the benefits of it.
Tom
Tom and Michelle 2004 U270 36WTFS

Re: Yet Another Victron Installation (YAVI)

Reply #8 –
I think for 5000W, you have to step up to 24V or 48V due to the amperage.
Steve and Cassi
2007 Foretravel Nimbus 42'

Re: Yet Another Victron Installation (YAVI)

Reply #9 –
Victron Multiplus II Mounting
With the basic AC wiring in place, it was time to install the Multiplus II, PD52V 5200 Transfer Switch, and the 50 Amp EMS/Surge Protector. When adding the AC wiring, we made sure to leave extra to allow flexibility in mounting, all on a single wall or split between two.

Ultimately we chose to mount everything on the rear wall of the pass-thru bay. That wall already hosts several components, HWH Pump, AquaHot overflow, cable cover, transmission module, a few more wouldn't make a difference. This  also avoided having to route 6/3 Romex across the bay through the cramped ceiling tray/cable raceway.

Partition Walls
multiplus_m1.jpg The partition walls are constructed from a framework of welded tube and angle brackets. This structure is then skinned with Filon and finished with a layer of bay carpet. The specific layout of the beams varies by partition and model year. I used a magnet to locate the steel tubes before drilling.  The Filon isn't strong enough to support heavy components, even with Rivnuts or similar, you need to be in the steel tubes.

Transfer Switch and EMS
I cut an L-shaped piece of 3/4" plywood to serve as a mounting base for the Progressive Industries 50 Amp RV Surge Protector/EMS and Progressive Dynamics PD52V Automatic Transfer Switch.

Rivnut Mounted to Wall Components Attached
multiplus_m2.jpg
multiplus_m3.jpg
multiplus_m4.jpg
You're unlikely to have frame members exactly where you need them, so it's best to use an intermediate mounting plate. This plate can be anchored to known structural points and then used to mount the equipment. The plywood L-plate was attached to the wall using Rivnuts installed in the steel tubing. The transfer switch and EMS were then secured to the plywood.

Wiring
The transfer switch receives input from the 6/3G shore power and 6/3G generator lines, both of which enter at the top. These were the two lines that we relocated in the first step of this project. Output from the transfer switch runs through a section of 6/3G to the EMS input. The EMS output then feeds into the AC input of the Multiplus II.

multiplus_m5.jpg There's enough space inside the transfer switch box to create small service loops. These tight loops can be difficult to make, I used a section of PVC tubing to wrap the wire around.  The loops make routing easier inside the box and offer some flexibility during maintenance or future upgrades/replacements.

multiplus_m6.jpg The Progressive EMS wiring is tight and I do not think the box is well thought out. The input side leaves no room for slack. The output side is only slightly better, but you still have to fit #6 wire and two current sensor rings into a cramped area. You must also be cautious not to damage the circuit board during installation of the wires.  I had installed one of these units 20 years ago, and it's disappointing that the design hasn't changed. Using SOOW wire could help, but only if both sides connection blocks support it.

Multiplus Mounting
Transfer PlateMounted to Wall
multiplus_m7.jpg
multiplus_m8.jpg
For mounting the Multiplus II, we used a steel intermediate plate instead of wood. This plate was also bolted to the wall using Rivnuts and uses press-in nuts (from behind) at (7) seven inverter mounting points. The Multiplus II weighs in at ~66 pounds, and considering the bumps and jolts of the road, a secure mount was needed.

The inverter comes with a vertical mounting bracket, we didn't have the space for that orientation. Instead, we mounted it horizontally. In this layout, the bracket only helps hold the unit to the wall but doesn't bear its weight directly. Fortunately, Victron includes two additional mounting points under the top (blue) cover for horizontal installations.

The intermediate plate also includes a ledge that supports the inverter during installation. Simply set the Multiplus on the ledge, slide it left to engage it on the wall bracket, then install the four corner bolts.

DC Wiring
New Cables Test Fit
multiplus_m9.jpg
multiplus_m10.jpg
Three 4/0 cables, positive, negative, and ground,  are run from the Multiplus II to the battery bay. Our coach includes a secondary, smaller raceway running along the bay ceiling parallel to the main one. It already carried several DC lines (boost, ignition power, ground), and we found it had plenty space to add our new cables, along with several VE.Direct and VE.Bus communication lines.

AC Wiring
multiplus_m11.jpg The AC wiring was straightforward, thanks to generous space for service loops in the access area. Strip the cable jackets according to the installation guide, it's probably more than you'd expect. The terminals use spring clips: press a small screwdriver into the release slot, fully insert the #6 wire, then remove the screwdriver to secure it, wish all the other connections were that fast and easy.

multiplus_m13.jpg With the (2) two transfer switches and the EMS relocated, the compartment at the foot of the bed now has ample space. It's a nice not having those components nearby, they tended to generate some heat and emitted a faint humming noise, neither of which will be missed.

Up Next
multiplus_m0.jpg With the AC and inverter side complete, its now time for the battery part of the install.  Also not shown in the above pictures is the existing 10/2 Romex from the old inverter.  This was attached to the Multiplus II AC OUT 2 terminals and will be used for loads that we never would put on the inverter, such as AquaHot electric heater element, etc.
2000 / 36' / U320 / WTFE
WildEBeest / "Striving to put right what once went wrong"

Re: Yet Another Victron installation ( YAVI )

Reply #10 –
Victron Multiplus II DC Wiring

multiplus_dc0.jpg The battery compartment received a major upgrade. Originally, it housed three MK Gel 8D batteries, each rated at 225Ah for a combined capacity of 675Ah.  The recommended safe discharge for those gel batteries is around 50%, leaving around 335Ah of usable power.

Those were replaced with two Epoch LiFePO4 460Ah Essentials, providing a total capacity of 920Ah. The LiFePO4 batteries allow for an 80+% DoD.  The usable capacity jumps up to 736Ah, more than double the original setup.

multiplus_dc1.jpg Switching to just two batteries opens up the upper section of the bay. That allowed an area for the installation of the Lynx Distributor, MPPT controller, SmartShunt, Disconnect switch, and some Solar breakers.  The idea for this layout was inspired by @floridarandy New Energy and Facelift for Ole Red . Although that thread featured a different setup, it showed that multiple components and the necessary cabling can fit in that space.

Lynx Distributor
Instead of using individual bus bars and fuse holders, we chose the Victron Lynx Distributor. The Lynx combines bus bars and fuse holders into a single unit. It helps keep the cabling organized and keeps the fuses and connections safely covered.

multiplus_dc2.jpg During the installation of the lugs to the distributor I had a few issues come up. I used marine-rated 4/0 cable and Sigma lugs, which worked well, but there were fitment issues when trying to add them to the Lynx.
   
  • The lug tips interfered with the MEGA fuse body. I had to file down the top arc of the lug to create clearance.
  • Small screw heads on the negative bus bar caused interference with the lugs. Here I filed small reliefs in the lugs to clear the screws.  This only occurs on certain buss bar positions, some are fine.
  • The base of the lug extended into the Lynx's plastic cable guides. I had to cut/file small reliefs in the swing arms to ensure they wouldn't be under stress/crack when the lug was tightened.

These "adjustments" allowed the lugs to fit.  Perhaps another brand of lug would have worked better, thank goodness I did not use FTZ Power lugs, those would have been an even tighter fit.

Lynx Light Hack
The Lynx Distributor has built-in indicator LEDs, designed to show the status of the fuses.  They light up when a fuse is blown. For this to work the Lynx distributor expects to be connected to a Lynx Smart BMS, which is how the circuit gets its 5V power.
Cable Assembly Cable Installed in Lynx
multiplus_dc3.jpg
multiplus_dc4.jpg
multiplus_dc5.jpg
Since I'm not using a Lynx Smart BMS, I needed to supply external power to enable the status LEDs. I built a simple adapter using a 12V-to-5V Step-Down Regulator, which feeds 5V to the appropriate pins on the RJ10 connector.  If you search online for "Lynx Light Hack" there are plenty of tutorials available, and some pre-built cables.

Once connected, the Lynx's fuse monitoring circuit is powered and the LED indicators functions. This is actually described in Section 3.3 of the Lynx Distributor Manual.  It also carries the warning: "The RJ10 connection is not protected against reverse polarity. A wrong RJ10 connection can irreversibly damage the Lynx Distributor's electronic circuits."  The finished cable was tucked in behind the MEGA fuses (see picture) for a clean hidden install.

Battery Bank & Distribution
multiplus_dc6.jpg We're using (2) two 460Ah Epoch Essential deep-cycle batteries wired in parallel. This maintains a 12V while doubling available capacity. On the (-) side, a SmartShunt is installed to monitor current and voltage before connecting to the Lynx Distributor. On the (+) side, power is routed through a manual battery disconnect before terminating at the Lynx Distributor. The battery lines are protected by a 400A MEGA fuse.

The original MK Gel batteries weighed about 160 lbs each and didn't have any brackets or clamps holding them down. I'm guessing the thinking was that they were heavy enough not to move. The new Epoch batteries are around 84 lbs each — basically half the weight of the old Gels. Swapping them out saved us over 300 lbs. Since the new ones are a lot lighter, we added a top bar/clamp to secure them in place.

From the Lynx Distributor, power is routed to the MultiPlus via a 400A MEGA fuse. The MultiPlus handles converting 12V DC from the batteries into 120V AC.

Solar Power TBD
multiplus_dc7.jpg The system will start with four 220-watt solar panels, wired in series (TBD). Power from that runs through marine grade duplex 6/2 wire to a Midnite Solar Baby Box, which houses DIN rail style breakers for protection. From there, the power goes to a Victron MPPT 100/50 charge controller, which will take the solar input and convert to 12V it for use on the Lynx.

Smart Dongle
multiplus_dc8.jpg A Smart Dongle was installed in the bay and is wired to the MultiPlus VE.Bus port. The Smart Dongle adds Bluetooth connectivity, allowing adjustment of the inverter settings from a smartphone. In addition to wireless access, it provides voltage and temperature sensing.  For temperature monitoring, you can either mount the dongle directly onto the battery using double-sided tape, or connect a dedicated temperature probe (Note: this must be one designed for the Smart Dongle/BMV 702, not the one supplied with the MultiPlus, we used BMV-702/712 Replacement Temperature Sensor - Made in The USA - 12 Month... )

If you do not need the temperature sense function, or intend to use the temp sensor from the Multiplus, then a great location for the dongle is inside the wire access cover of the Multiplus where its easy to wire and its hidden and protected.

Up Next System Monitoring
The brains of the system is the Victron Cerbo GX, which ties all the components together. The Cerbo provides monitoring and control of the system with a 7" touchscreen. It communicates with the SmartShunt, MultiPlus, Orion and MPPT, giving details on power flow, battery health, and inverter status. I'll give a quick outline of that in another post.
2000 / 36' / U320 / WTFE
WildEBeest / "Striving to put right what once went wrong"

Re: Yet Another Victron installation ( YAVI )

Reply #11 –
I will be waiting to see if your 2 batteries charge  / discharge at the same rate based off the Bluetooth app for the Epoch batteries. I have mine wired like the factory batteries were,  every thing goes to the buss bars. Individual equal length cables and size to each battery.  When charging or discharging,  all 3 are at different rates.  The 3 batteries are also now on different cycles, now 6,7,8
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago

Re: Yet Another Victron installation ( YAVI )

Reply #12 –
Quote from: turbojack –
I will be waiting to see if your 2 batteries charge  / discharge at the same rate based off the Bluetooth app for the Epoch batteries. I have mine wired like the factory batteries were,  every thing goes to the buss bars. Individual equal length cables and size to each battery.  When charging or discharging,  all 3 are at different rates.  The 3 batteries are also now on different cycles, now 6,7,8

Mine act the same way. Never the same SOC etc.  I built mine from cells so I just thought it was something I did wrong🙂🙂😳😳

2000 GV320 4010 build #5712  2019-?
1999 Bounder 2000-2008
Bardstown, KY
🥃The Bourbon Capital of the World🥃

Re: Yet Another Victron installation ( YAVI )

Reply #13 –
I used to have an issue with my batteries cell differences so I upped the voltage just a touch and let them charge/absorb just a little longer so the slower cells would catch up, but I have the EG4 server rack batteries so might react differently
1999 36 ft U270
Build 5465

Re: Yet Another Victron installation ( YAVI )

Reply #14 –
I've been slow in getting to writing up what I did,  so those batteries have been in place for ~5months.  To date, I've not taken them down much below 70% SoC, but I've not seen much more than an .1 or .2 % delta between the two when looking at them from the Epoch app (charged state)

I was initially having an issue where the Victron SoC would float at 97% but I tweaked the charging values and now it settles at 99.5+ percent.  For the essentials (not Elite) I'm currently using these parameters FWIW
Code: [Select]
Capacity: 920Ah (460*2)
Charged Voltage: 14.2
Tail Current: 2%
Charge Detection Time: 3m
Peukert: 1.05
Charge Efficiency: 99%
Current Threshold: 0.1A
Avg. Period: 3m
SoC on reset: keep
I think I'm still at the default charge rate of 120A
2000 / 36' / U320 / WTFE
WildEBeest / "Striving to put right what once went wrong"

Re: Yet Another Victron installation ( YAVI )

Reply #15 –
Multiplus II & OEM DC Wiring
multiplus_other0.jpg With the inverter swap done, the transfer switch relocated, and all inverter AC/DC wiring buttoned up, it was time to tackle the next job: checking the OEM DC wiring to ensure it plays nicely with our new battery bay layout. 

multiplus_other4.jpg  In the original build, the inverter wiring (now replaced) wasn't the only thing tied to the house batteries. We also had:
    • Engine boost switch
    • Generator starter
    • 120A breaker feeding the battery disconnect by the front door (aka "salesman's switch")
 
Your setup might be completely different, so check your schematics. Ours came from print B-2126 / Automotive Wiring Diagram for our year/model coach.  The original inverter was protected by a 350A T-Tron fast-acting fuse. Since the new Lynx Distributor uses a 400A MEGA fuse, that old fuse got the boot.


multiplus_other1.jpg For the remaining circuits, we had two choices: 
  • Feed them through the Lynx Distributor
  • Tie them directly to the battery disconnect
 
We went with Option 2. Why? Pulling power from the Lynx would send those loads through the 400A MEGA fuse, and the boost/generator circuits are intermittent and really have an unknown peak draws. In the original design, they weren't fused at all, same as the engine starter/batteries.  So basically we choose to leave well enough alone.  We did leave extra cable for an easy switch to the Lynx later and could add in-line fuses if needed, but for now its as the OEM setup was.

multiplus_other3.jpg The original distribution setup used a single wall-mounted post as the battery input and branching point for the inverter, boost, generator starter, and 120A breaker/disconnect, and a few other items.

multiplus_other2.jpg As done in our starter battery upgrade, those single-lug posts were replaced with BEP 650A 3-Stud Bus Bars,  one for positive, one for negative.  This not only cleans up the wiring (especially the crowded negative side) but also boosts contact surface area, helping the overall connection efficiency.  Note the original negative mounting stud is pressed into the relay plate, as such it remains in place and is used to bond the plate to ground.
2000 / 36' / U320 / WTFE
WildEBeest / "Striving to put right what once went wrong"
 

Re: Yet Another Victron installation ( YAVI )

Reply #16 –
cerbo0.jpg The heart of the monitoring system is the Victron Cerbo GX, which links all components together. The Cerbo provides monitoring and control via a 7" touchscreen. You can also access it through Victron's VRM Portal as long as the Cerbo has an internet connection.  Alternatively you can also connect to it locally at local.venus as long as it has a WiFi connection.

It communicates directly with the SmartShunt, MultiPlus, Orion, Solar MPPT and SeeLevel (709-N2K-NLP, aka NMEA 2000, version) giving us full visibility into power flow, battery health, and inverter status, tank status whether we're on-site or away.

Mounting
cerbo1.jpg We installed the Cerbo "brain" in a central location which in our case is behind the drawer stack under the cooktop in the kitchen. Cables run from the front battery bay, the mid passthru bay, and the engine compartment directly to this location and then plug into the Cerbo.

cerbo2.jpg Another reason for selecting this area was due to the spot formerly occupied by the Heliotrope RV-30DE charge controller. Its installation in the wall next to the cooktop left a rough cutout, which the 7" touchscreen fit in (and covered) with some modifications. Although we needed to enlarge the height of the cutout, the adjustment actually improved the overall appearance of the area. This arrangement also keep the screen and the Cerbo close enough together that the HDMI and USB cables reached without any extensions.

The wall paneling has a thin and brittle veneer. Be sure to score through it with a sharp blade when enlarging the opening to prevent splintering. The touch screen has minimal overlay, so it is not going to hide mistakes. I traced the outline on painters tape and scored through that. The Cerbo does come with a cutout template for you to use.

Communication Wiring
cerbo4.jpg We have "a bunch" of communication lines running to the Cerbo. They meet in the passthru storage bay and then come up through the floor under the kitchen drawer stack. From there they plug into the Cerbo which is mounted to the outside wall.

Cable Connections
  • Orion XS <-> VE.Direct <-> Cerbo
  • Chassis Smart Shunt <-> VE.Direct <-> Cerbo
  • House Smart Shunt <-> VE.Direct <-> Cerbo
  • MPPT <-> VE.Direct <-> Cerbo
  • Smart Dongle <-> VE.Bus <-> Multiplus
  • Multiplus <-> VE.Bus <-> Cerbo
  • SeeLevel <-> VE.Can <-> Cerbo
  • Propane/Manchester G12845 <-> 2-Wire <-> Cerbo
  • GPS <-> USB <-> Cerbo
  • Touch Screen <-> USB <-> Cerbo
  • Touch Screen <-> HDMI <-> Cerbo
  • Spare line to battery compartment
  • Spare line to engine compartment

We need more VE.Direct Ports
moreports.gif We had more components using VE.Direct than the Cerbo provided ports for. Although combiners are available, they can be difficult to source. An alternative solution is the Victron VE.Direct to USB Interface, which converts one of the USB connectors into a VE.Direct port.

Depending on your installation, you might need to work around a few quirks with this USB cable. Victron's solution is a cable that is approximately 5 feet long, with one end designed to plug into the Cerbo's USB port and the other directly into the component.  In our case, the components were located more than 5 feet away from the Cerbo, and we already had a dedicated VE.Direct cable running to it. Since both cables end in male connectors, a coupler was necessary. However, a straight coupler did not work—wires 2 (RX) and 3 (TX) had to be swapped (basic RS232 null modem) in the coupler to ensure proper VE.Direct communication.
cerbo5.jpg Null Modem Union cerbo6.jpg Assembly



20250904_170208.jpg 20250904_170220.jpg 20250904_170215.jpg

With the cabling figured out, the Cerbo fired up and was able to communicate with all the devices, including the Seelevel tank monitor and the propane level. 👌
2000 / 36' / U320 / WTFE
WildEBeest / "Striving to put right what once went wrong"