TV

Topic: TV (Read 1868 times) previous topic - next topic

TV

June 08, 2010, 11:21:14 pm

I have the old crank up tv antenna and just added a converter to be able to receive. I notice that picture improves a little moving the antenna around but switching the switch between on/off or antenna/cable on the panel does nothing. Last year at CG we had cable on the front tv so the cable for that must be correct. It looks like the antenna cable comes in from roof in the cabinet above the sleeper sofa and passes behind the sidewall into the driver's overhead. Is this typical? I think it must bypass the orginal coax cable connections but I don't see a splitter behind the TV...just one coax that is working on antenna or cable. There is a coax from sat dish coming into hall closet connected to nothing. There are other coax cables in there as well connected to nothing. Can someone tell me the original coax network layout by the factory. What came in where? Where does it go? Where is the switching hub that is controlled by the panel? Since there is an on/off something must be powered. Where is it powered from? At each tv I have a 12V power connector with a coax plug in next to it in the same outlet box. I guess this was for VCR's. TV doesn't receive well even local stations that should be booming. Thinking about adding the wingman.

Re: TV

Reply #1 – June 08, 2010, 11:42:03 pm

Dwayne ,one of the low tech tricks we have used in the shop to chase wires including coax is to get a 2 C cell battery holder at radio shack and some wires with alligator clips on them.Add the wires to the battery holder put a couple of fresh batteries in the holder ,hook the pos wire to the center wire of the coax and the neg to the outer nut of the coax.Go around the motorhome with a volt meter looking for 2.5 + volts.

Re: TV

Reply #2 – June 09, 2010, 09:15:05 am

( I tried to insert a photo, lets see if it works.
Ron, I should have patented my version of a coax tester, I used a 9 Volt battery attached to a chunk of coax. I simply used the clip on connector for a 9 Volt. If I get 9 volts at the other end I know I have a circuit. One of the big things to check is the position of the center conductor in the connector, it can be to short or to long and its easily bent over.

While on the subject... I am having trouble with my rear TV while on CABLE at a CG. I still have old analog sets and I use Digital converters, the front one is no problem but the rear one does not seem to pass the CABLE signal thru the converter. As a quick fix I hooked cable in to back of set to get by. I am missing something simple and it bugs me. I am using a Winegard Switch box but if its working for the front it should work for the back ? Any Ideas ?

Re: TV

Reply #3 – June 09, 2010, 11:37:44 am

Gary, what a good idea for a coax tester. Thanks, Dick

Re: TV

Reply #4 – June 09, 2010, 11:48:49 am

Gary, do you have a video control box for the front & reat TV's (something like the one I have, Audiovox AVCC100)? Can you post a pictue of your set up (wire-wise of rear of TV, Converter box, VCR, etc)? It would be easier to review the set and be able to diagnose if the set-up is the problem.

Re: TV

Reply #5 – June 09, 2010, 11:48:53 am

Most digital converter boxes do not have the "pass-though" feature, which
allows analog to pass through the box. Some with "pass-through" work by
turning the converter box off.
If your box does not have "pass-through" feature, the most common work
around is to put a splitter on on the cable that went into the converter
box, one to to converter box, & other to one leg of A/B coax switch. Common
of A/B to TV.

If your video switch box has an available input, like AUX, you could split
roof antenna and run one split to antenna in & other to converter box & then
to AUX.
Watch front TV on antenna or cable.
Watch rear TV on AUX or cable.

Re: TV

Reply #6 – June 09, 2010, 12:15:37 pm

Gary - The easiest way to post a picture is to add it as an attachment. Then a thumbnail version will appear in your note that can be enlarged by the reader by clicking on it.

Re: TV

Reply #7 – June 09, 2010, 12:20:00 pm

Gary - I was just looking at the post listing format where your picture had not shown up. When I went into the forum, I saw that you had already figured out the easy way I had described.

Re: TV

Reply #8 – June 09, 2010, 02:24:40 pm

Thanks for the info everybody. And I did discover that there are two types of converters....with or without pass through.

Re: TV

Reply #9 – June 09, 2010, 03:32:18 pm

Both of my Digital converters are labeled as PASS THROUGH so this should not be the problem. I have confirmed that I have continuity from the outside cable input connector to the switch box and from the switch box to the converter/TV input. I feel like I am missing something simple.
I can't take a photo of switch box til I get coach out of storage.
I know this sounds stupid but I am thinking that somehow I am failing to set up the rear Panasonic TV correctly for CABLE. On The on screen menu you select CABLE as the input and then go to auto program. This is the same as the Panasonic in front so it really mystifies me as to what I am doing wrong. Both converter boxes instruct you to simply turn them off to pass thru analog signal.
Next step ( I just thought of this ) I guess will be to swap DTV Converter boxes from front to back.
That's why I like having you guys available, it makes me think

, thanks

Re: TV

Reply #10 – June 09, 2010, 03:45:36 pm

Dwayne, FWIW both my 85 and the now 95 had all the TV wiring terminate in the floor of the closet, I'm not sure if yours is the same. There is a false bottom in the closet, pull up the carpet, pull up the pieces of plywood and you can see it all.

Re: TV

Reply #11 – June 10, 2010, 12:23:54 am

Gary, as another idea to try to eliminate possible problems, I would drop a coax out the bedroom window to the "camp ground "cable supply ,hook thew other end to the back of the converter box for the bedroom TV.If the issues go away then you know it is in the "switching area ".Then plan a trip to Wichita and we'll get ride of those old TVs for you.!!!!!

Ron

Re: TV

Reply #12 – June 10, 2010, 08:24:16 am

Ron, Next time I am in a CG I'll try that. I had to operate that way all winter in FL when nothing worked right. Since then have rewired the whole system.
I am too tight to replace TV's that are still working, with my luck they will both fail at the same time and when I am nowhere near Wichita.

Re: TV

Reply #13 – June 15, 2010, 11:42:51 pm

Gary , another trick i've used in the past is to use a VCR as a test signal.just put a tape in the you don't like and plug in to different places to test if the picture comes thru.

Re: TV

Reply #14 – June 16, 2010, 04:21:27 pm

"I notice that picture improves a little moving the antenna around but switching the switch between on/off or antenna/cable on the panel does nothing."
Does that switch provide the 12 volt power to the antenna for the antenna amplifier? I just have a three way Antenna - VCR- Cable switch. Don't see the normal 12 volt plug/antenna power switch combination anywhere?

Re: TV

Reply #15 – June 17, 2010, 08:42:15 am

Pat, If yours is similar to mine you will find the antennae booster in the blind floor compartment in the closet.
Before you take the closet apart use a volt meter to confirm that you have 12 volts at the antennae head on the roof. Check both at the antennae and the through connector at the roof line. This will tell you that the booster is working. My through connector at the roof was badly corroded.
Then you can begin tracing down continuity in cables.

Re: TV

Reply #16 – June 18, 2010, 01:15:06 am

If this is like the old winegard batwing I had on my previous SOB motorhome, the on/off antenna control box receives 12 volts and sends it up the coax to the antenna, where the booster amp is located. If the red light in the control box fails to light, the problem is likely with 12 volts getting to the box. If it does light, the fact that the antenna works the same with or without the booster indicates a problem in the injection of 12 volts into the coax or a problem within the antenna/booster assembly.

Re: TV

Reply #17 – June 18, 2010, 11:35:26 am

Quote from: Tom Lang – June 18, 2010, 01:15:06 am

If this is like the old winegard batwing I had on my previous SOB motorhome, the on/off antenna control box receives 12 volts and sends it up the coax to the antenna, where the booster amp is located. If the red light in the control box fails to light, the problem is likely with 12 volts getting to the box.

But is is not like your previous SOB motorhome or not like my previous Allegro. There is not on/off switch control box that the coax screws into in a normal place like I've seen in SOB motorhomes. And there is no red light to indicate on or off. As Gary Bouland pointed out, it is under the floorboards in the closet. You can see it here:

and there is a 3 way switch on the wall cabinet behind the drivers seat. It says antenna, vcr and cable. No on or off. It is apparently powered all the time, or powered by a relay somewhere that I have not found.
Edit: found the on off switch / indicator light at entrance to bedroom.

Re: TV

Reply #18 – June 18, 2010, 01:47:37 pm

Pat, In the photo I can see a model number, try googling Wingard and the # to see it there is documentation on it and possible trouble shooting tips.
On my 95 the whole system was so screwed up that I threw it all out. With help of Dave H I put in a new Wingard box, new cabling and now works fine. I still have original TV's ( I know ) and use DTV boxes.

Re: TV

Reply #19 – June 18, 2010, 02:58:24 pm

Quote from: Gary Bouland – June 18, 2010, 01:47:37 pm

Pat, In the photo I can see a model number, try googling Wingard and the # to see it there is documentation on it and possible trouble shooting tips.
On my 95 the whole system was so screwed up that I threw it all out. With help of Dave H I put in a new Wingard box, new cabling and now works fine. I still have original TV's ( I know ) and use DTV boxes.

I am thinking of putting in a new box, plus I have unhooked coax where the OP had a Direct tv box. I am going to be using Dish so mine can just swap out, except I will have to run a coax line down to the utility bay for the Dish antenna.

Re: TV

Reply #20 – June 18, 2010, 09:24:16 pm

Mine started working when I went up on the roof and beat on it a little bit. There is what looks like a magnetic burgler alarm contactor on the unit and on the roof so that when it is down they meet, presumably to shut off the 12 volt to the amp. Is this right or am I seeing things? In any case, with antenna up it will now amplify with the switch on. My switches are also in the bedroom and behind the driver on the upper cabinet (though this one is much smaller).

Re: TV

Reply #21 – June 18, 2010, 09:47:28 pm

Dwayne,

No, the magnetic contactors are for the dash warning system-- antenna UP. Nothing to do with the Wingard system itself.

Brett Wolfe

Re: TV

Reply #22 – June 18, 2010, 10:01:31 pm

Dwayne, I pulled boot off of fitting where cable goes thru roof and found that it was so badly corroded that it was a wonder that it worked at all. I pulled screws from plate on roof, replaced thru fitting with one from Radio shack, resealed plate, replaced cable with new RG6 and fittings. I also used dieelectric grease to retard corrosion on fittings. It may help and it sure can't hurt.

Affiliate Notice