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Topic: Working Safely around your Foretravel (Read 41076 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #80 –
I want to stay safe/can't take any more injuries'', so this idea caught my attention. 
Garry's yellow posts show slots and holes in upper tubing. Necessary? or safety for tie wraps?  Harbor Freight box tubing units ... cuts the cost and will work fine.  Advantage/disadvantages?
any other comments??
ron

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #81 –
Jerry,

Now that is a great way to obtain safety stands!

Keith

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #82 –
Quote from: coastprt –
They are 2" square and 12" long.  One  end has a welded base that works well to keep it upright when placing into position next to the airbags. They are electroplated and powder coated for rust protection.  Maximum space between the frame supports on my coach is just over 12 inches after starting/airing up, and using the raise button and arrows for manual leveling to its maximum height. 

Anybody know how Jerry's "over 12 inches" on his 1993 compares to the Unicoaches and newer coaches?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #83 –
I think I remember someone posting a picture of safety stands to which he had welded handles to make them easier to carry and manuever under the RV (they may have been painted white).
 
I looked through this whole thread and could not find them, so they must have been in a different thread. I tried a few searches but could not find them.
 
Anybody remember them and what he used for handles?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #84 –
Used mine for the first time yesterday as I wanted to slide the gen out to try and get up to the foot brake valve to stop some air leaks. Just put the front 4 in and worked good as I slid under to release muffler pipe. I  then noticed that it is not the gen that makes getting to that valve hard but the frame for genset!!! How do you get a good position for getting at those lines and valve??
My safety blocks are 3x3" 1/4" wall tube with end plates welded on= 11". No handles as I do not see a need for them.
Left this job for another day and got back to my friends CC. Fixing falling off slide corner mouldings with 3M tape.
John H

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #85 –
Quote from: TulsaTrent –
I think I remember someone posting a picture of safety stands to which he had welded handles to make them easier to carry and manuever under the RV (they may have been painted white).
 
I looked through this whole thread and could not find them, so they must have been in a different thread. I tried a few searches but could not find them.
 
Anybody remember them and what he used for handles?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent

Whew - took a few tries with "search", but would it be Brian's (Aspenpilot) post here:?

Generator Box and Frame Blocks

Michelle

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #86 –
Quote from: Michelle –
Whew - took a few tries with "search", but would it be Brian's (Aspenpilot) post here:?

Generator Box and Frame Blocks

Michelle

Thanks, Michelle -- How do you to that?  :o
 
That *might* be them but I had not remembered them being 4x4x3/8" -- those have to be heavy to move around (guess that's why they have handles), but sure would make you feel safe.
 
I thought I remembered some that were 2x2" with simple bent rod handles, all painted white, but I could just be channeling my version of the synergistic group design.  :-\
 
Trent

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #87 –
Quote from: coastprt –
I went to Harbor Freight tools and bought 4 standard receiver hitch tubes to use for safety supports .  They are 2" square and 12" long.  ...  They are electroplated and powder coated for rust protection.  ... Not cheap at $17.99 each but a very inexpensive form of insurance when working underneath. 

If you are too cheap to pay for these, Harbor Freight also has some surplus "Foretravel" safety tubes they are selling at a discount for $12.99. These are also 2" square and eletroplated and powder coated, but only 11 3/4" long. They also have a handle: it is about 2" round and welded on for safety. :)  The Foretravel logo has been painted over, but you could probably get some nice vinyl ones made. It is Harbor Freight SKU 95884. Will attach a picture. Hope this helps someone.  ;D
 
Trent

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #88 –
Mine are 1 1/2" sq. x 11" overall with a tee welded on the bottom (that was the tubing I had on hand), but you really only need 1 1/2" sq or 2" sq tubing, 1/8" wall, without a base or tee.  Go to any weld shop and they can cut 8 of them for you on their chop saw in a jiffy.  Would be surprised if they cost more than $5 each.

I suspect I could get 12" long pieces in, but it would be tight.

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #89 –
On our 99' U270, 12" length or even 12.5" is doable on all corners. I wish I would have known that before I made the 11 inchers... Doing the kind of work I have been doing underneath makes every inch count!
Don

Quote from: Dave Katsuki –
Mine are 1 1/2" sq. x 11" overall with a tee welded on the bottom (that was the tubing I had on hand), but you really only need 1 1/2" sq or 2" sq tubing, 1/8" wall, without a base or tee.  Go to any weld shop and they can cut 8 of them for you on their chop saw in a jiffy.  Would be surprised if they cost more than $5 each.

I suspect I could get 12" long pieces in, but it would be tight.

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #90 –
Speaking of safety stands, anyone know if 2"x2"x1/8" square ALUMINUM square tubing would be sufficient?
 
How about bolting or welding two of them side by side?
 
Please let me know what you think.
 
Thanks,
 
Trent

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #91 –
Quote from: TulsaTrent –
Speaking of safety stands, anyone know if 2"x2"x1/8" square ALUMINUM square tubing would be sufficient?
 
How about bolting or welding two of them side by side?
 
Please let me know what you think.
 
Thanks,
 
Trent
                              I wouldn't do it Trent. Aluminum does not have nearly the compressive strength of Steel. Also Steel is typically cheaper to purchase.

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #92 –
The compressive strength of 2.125 x 2.125 x12" long structural steel tubing with a .125 or 1/8" wall is 36,000 lbs . So two at a wheel can hold 36 tons. With all the alloys of aluminum having different compressive strengths I would not use aluminum. Gam

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #93 –
It is not necessary for them to be rectangle shaped. I used 3" sch. 40 pipe which has a 1/4" wall thickness.

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #94 –
12" long sch 40 seamless pipe should be good . The standard rigging safety factor is 5 to 1 so if the wheel load is 5 tons the blocking must be able to hold 25 tons. It is had to believe how much weight a hollow shape can hold.As part of a rigging class I would cut the ends out of a Campbell's  soup can .Them mount it in a 50 ton shop hyd press and take bets on how much weight it would hold. Time and again they will hold just over 1200  lbs. Gam

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #95 –
Barry
Will your specs for safety tubing.. work on a u280?

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #96 –
@  JD Stevens & others: Screw Jacks Lifting Support Jack House Floor Leveling Floor Support Sagging  these jacks are pretty good quality & rated to support houses.... used them to support a pole barn we rebuilt at the farm a couple of years ago. Nice features are: Acme Thread, variety of sizes & capacities, assumed professional engineering, and FAST availibility. Fortunately I've got hydraulic leveling jacks... UNFORTUNATELY I've made a living fixing broken technology so I'm EXTREMELY paranoid about trusting my life to hydraulics, pneumatics, computers, or the government. Please use something folks to prevent getting squished. I personally know of more than one tech that has been injured because they didn't use a jackstand. I almost lost a leg to a slowly collapsing scissor jack. Glad it collapsed slowly....

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #97 –
2x4's 11.5" long glued with construction adhesive and screwed together with long screws work fine and it's cheap. 4x4 would work fine but laminated 2x4's is stronger and supports the weight of the coach easily. If I had steel tubing laying around I'd use it but it's not necessary. In the interest of safety do not get under a coach without some kind of safety support.

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #98 –
After reading through these posts I'm still not sure where to place the safety stands. I have 4 2X2 1/4 inch wall steel tubes 12 inches long. Do you place them at the inside airbag or the outside airbag? Thank you all in advance! :D

Re: Working Safely around your Foretravel

Reply #99 –
Place them between the upper and lower frame members in front of and behind air bags.
Gary B