Re: bulkhead blues Reply #200 – July 19, 2012, 06:45:52 pm I have looked in some of the local stores and have not been able to locate a in. lb. wrench locally. Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #203 – July 19, 2012, 10:07:08 pm Thanks Gam. Will try Sears tomorrow. Would doubt correct calibration with a used unit. Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #204 – July 19, 2012, 10:22:03 pm If I can find an inch lb. wrench, will compare 240 in lb. with 20 ft. lb. on my old wrench to see if the values are close. Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #205 – July 19, 2012, 10:23:09 pm Guys,Not sure 240 inch-lbs or 260 inch-lbs vs 250 is super critical. Yes, you do want sufficient torque to verify that it is holding, and not crank on it so hard you strip it out or break the bolt.Brett Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #206 – July 19, 2012, 10:39:30 pm If youy have a small airport nearby, every aviation mechanic has both a ft lb and inch lb torque wrench in his toolbox, go by, give him a cup of coffee and ten bucks and you can probably get by without a ratchet for life. Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #207 – July 20, 2012, 12:38:19 am Quote from: Tim Fiedler – July 19, 2012, 10:39:30 pmIf youy have a small airport nearby, every aviation mechanic has both a ft lb and inch lb torque wrench in his toolbox, go by, give him a cup of coffee and ten bucks and you can probably get by without a ratchet for life.If he loans his torque wrench make a mental note to self. "Find someone else to be my A&P mechanic." Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #208 – July 20, 2012, 12:47:00 am The harbor freight small torque wrenches are fairly accurate and very inexpensive. Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #209 – July 20, 2012, 08:59:02 am Quote from: Caflashbob – July 20, 2012, 12:47:00 amThe harbor freight small torque wrenches are fairly accurate and very inexpensive. Because I am buying one just to use on the bulkhead and most likely that's the only use it will get I am thinking the Harbor Frieght one looks pretty good. Even if it's off a few pounds I can't believe it would be an issue. Dean Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #210 – July 20, 2012, 09:32:01 am no, I am a better sales guy than that! For $10 he gets under the coach with his wrench!Actually, the guy that works on my Tri-Pacer is a great guy and happy to crawl under for free. That being said, I have MOT check every year when I am in Nac now. Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #211 – July 20, 2012, 10:24:10 am Quote from: Tim Fiedler – July 20, 2012, 09:32:01 amno, I am a better sales guy than that! For $10 he gets under the coach with his wrench!Actually, the guy that works on my Tri-Pacer is a great guy and happy to crawl under for free. That being said, I have MOT check every year when I am in Nac now.Just kidding, nothing like having a helpful mechanic that'll work with you to keep those old birds flying. Owned a '46 Ercoupe 415C, replaced a rear spar under the watchful eye of a guy like that. Chuck Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #212 – July 20, 2012, 06:10:57 pm After pricing the quality in. lb. wrenches at Sears today, I feel like Dean. The only time I use a torque wrench is when I change the transmission , differential, fluids, etc. and these parameters are all measured in ft. lbs. I will rely on my craftsman (Fleetwood) ft. lb. torque wrench to test the bulkhead bolts. I am not an engineer, mechanic or even a musician (good on you Don). By the way my "Fleetwood" torque was not cheap when I bought it many years ago. Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #213 – July 20, 2012, 09:00:18 pm Anti seize or a lub on the bolt threads mean a reduction in torque when tightening. That means approximately 20% less or as an example, if a fastener is torqued to 100 lbs dry, it only gets about 80 lbs. when a lubricant is used. Tim, I bought a 135 hp Tri-Pacer in 1968. Burned about 7.5 gph at 100 mph. GREAT plane. Flew it for 20 years. Only wish would have been the 150 hp engine. Pierce Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #214 – July 20, 2012, 09:07:05 pm I have been reading all the posts relative to bulkhead issues. May I have missed something. I notice that we are all sealing the bottom joint between the angle iron and the box beam, but I got to thinking and looking, is anyone sealing the top of the angle iron. Seems like a good place for water to seep in and have no way to escape. Plan on sealing the top of ours before I seal the bottom. Inquiring minds want to know.Roland Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #215 – July 20, 2012, 09:30:29 pm Planning on doing both when I do mine.Pierce Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #216 – July 20, 2012, 10:09:14 pm Quote from: Roland Begin – July 20, 2012, 09:07:05 pmI have been reading all the posts relative to bulkhead issues. May I have missed something. I notice that we are all sealing the bottom joint between the angle iron and the box beam, but I got to thinking and looking, is anyone sealing the top of the angle iron. Seems like a good place for water to seep in and have no way to escape. Plan on sealing the top of ours before I seal the bottom. Inquiring minds want to know.RolandRoland,You are exactly correct.From my perspective, where the top of the angle iron meets the vertical plane of the bulkhead is one of the less addressed and more critical of the areas to attend to.It tends to look good (no oxidation or deterioration) and therefore is not addressed much. But, because water (and corrosion catalysts such as chloride ions) can enter the joint, it is a big contributor to the rust jacking and to other forms of corrosion that can effect the joint/bolting.The joint being open to water intrusion, is a major reason that (original design) fresh water tank overflows disproportionately aggravate bolting in the vicinity below the overflow.The top, horizontal surface of the angle iron also tends to collect dirt, sand and grit that sponges up moisture and tends to hold it there longer. The vertical bulkhead on my coach is lightly tack welded, at generous intervals, to the angle iron, and that tack welding is all-intact and still looks good (another reason to believe that bulkhead shear forces are non-contributors to fastener failures).So what is one to do? Redirect the fresh water tank overflow, clean the top horizontal surface of the bulkhead joint angle iron and the vertical bulkhead metal surface well, neutralize any visible oxidation, and then preserve that joint with either applied coatings (e.g.: PAR 3 step, or undercoating) or keep the joint corrosion neutral with a product such as Corrosion-X.Not difficult, but MUST be routinely inspected and attended to.Good observation,Neal Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #217 – July 20, 2012, 10:10:58 pm Agree on the milk stool with 150 hp, a joy to play with.Dave M Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #218 – July 20, 2012, 10:20:19 pm Have Quote from: Roland Begin – July 20, 2012, 09:07:05 pmI have been reading all the posts relative to bulkhead issues. May I have missed something. I notice that we are all sealing the bottom joint between the angle iron and the box beam, but I got to thinking and looking, is anyone sealing the top of the angle iron. Seems like a good place for water to seep in and have no way to escape. Plan on sealing the top of ours before I seal the bottom. Inquiring minds want to know.RolandHave you found the upper side of the L bracket unsealed??? Mine was factory sealed-- just crawled under to confirm.Brett Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #219 – July 20, 2012, 10:34:22 pm Quote from: wolfe10 – July 20, 2012, 10:20:19 pmHave Have you found the upper side of the L bracket unsealed??? Mine was factory sealed-- just crawled under to confirm.BrettBrett,How is yours sealed?I don't believe that mine is.I could be wrong, but I've always thought that it was unprotected.Of course it's way too tight to get a feeler gauge or anything else into the joint , but I see no evidence of a gasket or caulking. I just have tack welds every 12 to 18 inches.Neal Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #220 – July 20, 2012, 10:35:19 pm QuoteSo what is one to do? Redirect the fresh water tank overflow, I eliminate the overflow.I have a clear plastic tube plumbed into the fresh water tank and stay there and visually check the level of water in the tank by looking at the tube and vowing to never let it overflow again.So far, so good.best, paul Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #221 – July 20, 2012, 10:37:11 pm Neal,Put some water on it and see if it disappears. Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #222 – July 20, 2012, 10:42:56 pm I had also inspected the area above the angle iron. There is a lot of dirt there but it appears to be tack welded to the bulkhead at intervals and not sealed. Even though I have diverted the overflow vent, this area may need further attention. Will have to clean it and have a closer look. Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #223 – July 20, 2012, 11:03:03 pm Quote from: wolfe10 – July 20, 2012, 10:37:11 pmNeal,Put some water on it and see if it disappears. Thanks, Brett,Will try fluids tomorrow.Neal Quote Selected
Re: bulkhead blues Reply #224 – July 20, 2012, 11:38:45 pm I would have thought that anyone cleaning and checking then sealing the bulkhead area would automatically seal the top too. If not done completely around you are asking for more possible trouble later, even if the factory did seal that edge. I even sprayed about 12" past the joint on both surfaces, that is why I suggested in an ealier post you would need a coouple of cans of Spray rubberised underseal.John H Quote Selected
Topic: bulkhead blues