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Topic: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires. (Read 2998 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #20 –
So far the Zip Dee on our 02 is working perfectly. I assume we have the original 12v compressor but wouldn't swear to that. There are a lot of moving parts relays etc. so it will break sometime.

We never used our manual awning because it was easier to find a shade tree than put it out.  This one however is a different story.

In Oklahoma we can go from no wind to 80 mph in a short time. With the electric we can just put the awning up when leaving the coach or going to bed. We love it.

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #21 –
I think it is Corbett and Connie Poole. I saw their zip dee and it was connected to a second compressor in the first bay.  He said no problems since he put that in. I would contact them and talk to him.  He showed me the setup and it was pretty sweet.

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #22 –
The unit on our '02 ZipDee Autoawn uses 90psi. I regularly need to use the little button that turns the entire control OFF and ON again, to reset everything... then it is fine for a while. The remote does not like to "talk" to the control through the closed bay door.  We have to open it a bit to get good communication. 

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #23 –
Hi Carol - Hope things are going well for you guys.

Ours communicates kinda the same as yours.  Sometimes OK through the bay door - other times - no.

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #24 –
I would have another conversation with Jimmy at Zip Dee and mention that the doc says 90 psi.  Foretravel would not have installed those awnings with a compressor that did not produce the correct PSI. 

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #25 –
Could it be that the cylinders need some lubrication in the air line?  I don't know how the Zip Dee system works but I do know that dried oil on the seals of an air cylinder can greatly affect operation making it seem like there's not enough pressure.  Maybe another question for Jimmy.

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #26 –
Hey John - The right arm was rebuilt by ZipDee and the left one was lubricated by FT in Nac.  It appears that I have low air pressure that does not push the cylinders and extend - Per Jimmy at ZipDee. 

I will call Jimmy again tomorrow AM and chat again.

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #27 –
TT Jimmy at ZipDee again.  He called to advise he is trying to contact the owners that have a second compressor - think the Pooles - but they have not returned his calls.  I asked about the air pressure discrepancy between the docs., 90psi and his statement, 110psi.  He advised that he sets the control boxes at 110 psi. 

Still looking for a small compressor that can be installed in the bay. Going down to 4 wheel parts in Houston.  They have a few 12 volt units that produce up to 135 psi.

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #28 –
Latest developments - Found posts from the PO dating back to 2004 where he talked about the problems with the ZipDee awning.  Found a small Senco single tank compressor - 135psi and Jimmy @ ZipDee said it should do the job.  We are going to meet him somewhere near the FMCA rally in Gillette where he is going to replace the rear awning arm at a great price.  Checked with FMCA and their powered spots are all gone.  Soooo we can either dry camp in an area that allows generators to run at any time or stay in a lot/field where generators are limited use.  I think we may try to stay at a CG close and meet Jimmy in a parking lot close to the rally so he can do his magic.

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #29 –
Latest Developments - Success - In Gillette.  Jimmy, Jim - the owner of Zip Dee, his wife and son came to our CG this afternoon.  Replaced the rear awning arm, the spring, showed me how to drain the water out of the arms, (should be done on occasion) and  shared with us how this thing works. It now works great. Cost - $30.00 service call. :D   

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #30 –
Congrats!  Glad you finally are able to use the awning! 

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #31 –
Hi Scott,

Please remind me of the arm draining procedure. I presume you have same the Auto-Awn system I do.

Jim

2002 U320

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #32 –
Hi Jim - Extend awning until arms arms are slightly past horizontal position.  Use motor manual awning extension switch in the control box to do this.  There is a black cap with 4 screws on the end of the arm where an extension comes out.  This is the arm seal.  Turn the 4 screws counterclockwise (loosen) for 2 revolutions (DO NOT REMOVE SCREWS AS THEY ARE A BUGGER TO GET BACK IN).  Tap black cap away from arm on the screws - maybe 1/8th of an inch.  If there is water in the arm it will flow out between the arm and black cap.  Re tighten screws, retract awning using the same switch and operate as usual.  Jimmy says that this should be done on occasion.  I asked how often.  He said it largely depends on the amount of rain that has fallen but suggests once every three to four months.  Keep in mind that there is a timer built into the control box to eliminate overuse.  If the awning will not retract after this procedure, reset the unit by turning it off then on.  The bottom switch in the control box is the  on/off switch.  Jim, the owner of Zip Dee. said they built that timing control due to many people running the awing out and in numerous times that the motor in the awning burnt out.  Idiot proof.  Jim added that one of the greatest causes of arm failure is the build up of water in an arm that is not drained.  The black cap is a seal but water tend to find a way in.  He also suggests, normal maintenance, to use 3 in one oil, to lube the arm.  You will find a hex bolt head on the main arm.  Remove the bolt and put oil in hole until it starts to flow out.  Replace hex head bolt.  I think I have listed accurately the procedure.  If in doubt call Jimmy in Elk Grove, IL for details.  He is a great guy and will answer any questions you may have.

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #33 –
That's how they instructed me on how to get the water out.  This is a great awning but you do have to have the air pressure to make it work.  I put mine out right after I turn the engine off as the pressure is at its highest point at that time.  DAN

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #34 –
Scott,

Wow, thank you for the detailed answer for awning arm water removal. Good luck with your coach - it is a rather long learning curve. Great fun though!

Jim

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #35 –
Dan and Scott,

Last year I had my Auto-Awn control box re-built by Jimmie from Zip Dee (at an FMCA) in order to gain greater air pressure for the arms. He also as replaced the front arm. Actually I do not use the big awning very much (too chicken from previous experiences), but sure had more difficulty until upgrading my 2002 vintage control box.

Jim

2002 U320

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #36 –
Per Jimmy's request/requirement, being that the control box needs 110 psi to operate, I invested in a small air compressor that I now use to air my tires and operate the awning.  The air compressor will produce max. 135 psi with a small air tank - not pancake style.  Jimmy was glad to see it when I opened the bay for him to make his magic.

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #37 –
Quote from: Carol & Scott –
Per Jimmy's request/requirement, being that the control box needs 110 psi to operate, I invested in a small air compressor that I now use to air my tires and operate the awning.  The air compressor will produce max. 135 psi with a small air tank - not pancake style.  Jimmy was glad to see it when I opened the bay for him to make his magic.

Scott - Jimmy had suggested the same to me just last week.  I have a small pancake compressor that I could take if I knew where to connect.  How do you make your connection. 
I really like my AutoAwn.  Although I have experienced some of the problems others have experienced over the past six years,  I regularly deploy my awning and adjust for best viewing from inside when we eat.  I find that if you use it regularly you may experience fewer problems. 

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #38 –
Ron - I hope we enjoy our awning as much as you do.  I do not know where your aux. comp. or Zip Dee control box is but mine is on the passenger side - center Bay.  First bay being LP gas and third being the Maniblock water valves.  My control box is gray in color and attached on a partial bulkhead that runs parallel with and toward the center of the coach.  The air manifold that controls air in and out of the arms is attached to the control box on the right, then a water separator that received air from the aux. comp. is to the right of the of the air manifold.  Out of the aux. comp. there are three black air lines approx. 1/4" in diameter.  I think one line goes to auto level function, one line goes to slide air bags and one goes to water separator then to the air manifold for the Zip Dee control box.  I cut the line about 3" from the water separator and connected a 5' line with a quick disconnect on the other end.  The end with the quick disconnect I connect to my compressor that lives in the center bay under the Aux Comp.  The end that comes from the aux compressor I doubled over and used a stainless steel clamp to secure the end so air could not get out.  You could also use a screw and thread into end of air line to stop the air but I had a clamp and not a screw.  I think it was recommended somewhere on this site to use the screw method.  I think that covers it. 

Re: Zip Dee Awning control box - melted wires.

Reply #39 –
Where are you guys???  When we were in Tucson and I was coming home from running errands in the 110 degree heat, I saw that Jeff had the awning extended. I cleverly thought that I would park the Jeep partially under the awning and use the shade.  I forgot, however, that he still had his "floaty-boat" frame on the roof rack of the Jeep, and smacked the awning with the damned boat.  It was slightly skewed by this maneuver (awning ... not boat) and the fabric ruched along the roller a bit. I will say that Mr Wonderful kept his mouth shut pretty well ... and we managed to un-skew things for the most part and the awning did raise with only a modicum of unnatural protest. We have not lowered it since.  I would really really really like a consensus/committee of other ZipDee folks present when we try this baby again.