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Topic: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic) (Read 8088 times) previous topic - next topic - Topic derived from Please confirm waste ...

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #20 –
Wow Roger, now that the gallery is working, I would say you set a new standard for detailed write ups!  ^.^d One which I will aspire to once we have finished the moving of our home base to the SKP's Co-Op park near Temecula... I have quite a backlog of projects that I have pictures for. I guess I need to spend some time and figure out how to use the Gallery as you did, and also place pictures inline with the relevant body of text. What a resource this forum is! ^.^d
Don

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #21 –
What's the purpose of the rubber liner ?

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #22 –
I guess to trap and contain spills.  The faucet dribbles after shutting it off occasionally. Lets you rinse that part of the bay.  I guess this is another example of yours is different from mine. 

I have found it helpful in keeping this section clean.

Roger

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #23 –
Quote from: Home2fromHastings –
Mark, I could have just cut off the outlet pipe and added a third valve without taking anything apart in our 2001. 

That was the point I was trying to make in a subtle way for others.  Don't get me wrong, I admire the amazing things you and others can do but, sometimes it is ok to just do the simple thing if that is all that is needed. 

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #24 –
Trent, here is a sketch of my panels.  Can't attach pics to PM. Measure your setup carefully.

Mark, you can get a third valve with a female bayonet fitting on one side and a male on the other side.  Some folks have done that too.  Lots of ways to accomplish the task.  Sooner or later the main valves are likely going to need some maintenance or replacement.  I would rather do this now when it is not a very nasty emergency.

Roger

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #25 –
Roger,
 
Thank you very much for sharing. WOW! I am sure others will benefit from your R&D.
 
It is truly amazing how much information you conveyed with so little on a piece of paper. My three semesters of drafting left me with enough knowledge to recognize brilliance when I see it. (I was an Aeronautical Engineering student before I became an Electrical Engineer.)
 
Trent

 

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #26 –
On the far right of the utility bay is a small door that covers an area for storage of the sewer hose. In the process of cleaning up to add a third valve, I tried to remove this door which is covering some of the rubber mat which I am removing (in pieces).

I have removed EIGHT screws from the inner slot around the door (normally covered by the door), but the door assembly will not budge. I wanted to clean up the area while I clean up the sewer door, while I am doing preventive maintenance on two tank valves. The lip of the door assembly looks like it is on top of the upper potion of the rubber mat. There is a large dose of sealant around the door assembly.
 
Has anyone successfully removed this door assembly? Is it likely that with the screws removed, it is now held fast by the sealant around the edge of it? Is there any reason to continue trying to disassemble it any further?
 
thanks for any explanations, suggestions, or guidance anyone can provide,
 
Trent

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #27 –
It is held in place by the sealant. I removed the one on ours twice... once when I rebuilt the bulkhead and then after I actually used the coach and tried to stow the sewer hose in it, at which point I removed it and covered the backside in front of the driver's side rear wheels with a pice of 16 gage stainless. I think I may have posted on it awhile back... but not sure.
Edit: Here are a couple of pictures while in process.
Don
Quote from: TulsaTrent –
Has anyone successfully removed this door assembly? Is it likely that with the screws removed, it is now held fast by the sealant around the edge of it? Is there any reason to continue trying to disassemble it any further?
 
thanks for any explanations, suggestions, or guidance anyone can provide,
 
Trent


Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #28 –
I am still wrestling with removing the lowest back wall section. It is the one that (in my case) has the faucet and both tank valve handles. I have removed the water pipes from the back of the faucet.
 
I have not been able to remove any more of the faucet components from the lower wall section. Part of the problem is that the gray valve cable is too short. The black tank cable is long enough to let me move the bottom wall section out of the way. When I rebuild the two valves, I am going to switch the valves, so that the shorter cable goes to the black tank which will have more excess cable with the shorter cable (as the valves are physically located).

If I can remove the gray tank handle section from the that wall section, then I could move that wall section up and out of the way. This should give me enough clearance to allow me to replace the seals and clean the gate valves.
 
My questions are:
 
    1. How do I remove the gray tank handle assembly from the wall section?
 
    2. How do I further disassemble the outside faucet? I have tried using an adjustable wrench to remove the connector that attaches the thru-the-wall pipe to the body of the faucet, but it did not want to budge. I think I am turning it in the right direction (righty-tighty, lefty-loosey). I can use a cheater pipe for more leverage, but am afraid of destroying the faucet assembly. I have gotten a pretty good push/pull on it with a 10" wrench.

    3. Do I need to replace the rubber flooring piece? I have the replacement ribbed rubberish material. If I do replace it, do I bring it up to the front metal or try to go under it? Do I fold the back and sides and seal the corners of them good enough to hold water if it drips?
 
Thanks for any advice y'all might be willing to provide,
 
Trent

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #29 –
Quote from: acousticart –
after I actually used the coach and tried to stow the sewer hose in it, at which point I removed it and covered the backside in front of the driver's side rear wheels with a piece of 16 gauge stainless.
Don,

So you totally removed any access to the Foretravel sewer hose storage vault?

(Which gives you the same storage ability that I have, based on the number of times I have used it.)

I am not sure I want to stow my used sewer hose there either, but it seems a shame to not use that area for something -- but I don't know what. Maybe a place to store valuables, with some minor modifications.

Thanks for your quick response and continued demonstration of your willingness to share your experiences with others.

Trent

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #30 –
Mine had a lot of 2" or more ss screws and lots of silicone seal.  I took the screws out and used a thin scraper to pry it loose from the silicone.  I could pull it into the bay about an inch, enough to get the rubber liner out and later back in.  The door assembly looked like it was glued into the 90° fitting that was connected to the transverse tube for storing the drain hose.  This tube and the door are not big enough to fit a hose with fittings.  So I just put mine back in with new silicone and screws. 

Maybe I will find something to store there. It is open to the weather at the other end so nothing important.

My new Valterra hoses are much easier to store.  They compress in length and stay compressed.  10' to about 40".

Roger

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #31 –
Trent,
On our coach, the sewer hose storage was in a 4 inch ABS pipe in front of the axle that you access through a white plastic hatch just in front of the outside dually. It was very difficult to try and feed the sewer host through the 90º elbow there, and none of the Valterra fittings would fit. I took the hatch and 4" ABS pipe out, which also improved access from underneath to the wet tank area. Now I store the Wastemaster Hose which has a valve in the Nozzle, but I also made a cap. The entire area under the cord reel shelf is caulked top and bottom except at the front. When stowed, of course all three waste valves plus the final one in the nozzle are closed. If I wish, I can put the entire 20' hose plus an extension hose and a shoe box full of various adapters etc. and cover it with a hatch, but so far I love the quick hook up I get just leaving it connected at the camlock fitting and pulling the hose out. It is very convenient.
Don
Quote from: TulsaTrent –
Don,

So you totally removed any access to the Foretravel sewer hose storage vault?

(Which gives you the same storage ability that I have, based on the number of times I have used it.)

I am not sure I want to stow my used sewer hose there either, but it seems a shame to not use that area for something -- but I don't know what. Maybe a place to store valuables, with some minor modifications.

Thanks for your quick response and continued demonstration of your willingness to share your experiences with others.

Trent


Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #32 –
Our wet bay faucet bit the bullet the other day and I decided that along with replacing it, I would install a 3rd valve and quite fooling with those cables to the black and grey tanks.  It got to the point of throwing good money after bad and when I had to put both hands on the handle to pull the valve open, I decided it was time to cut my losses!
So, I went in and cut the cables, made sure the valves were fully open and installed a 3rd valve.  I ordered the faucet from websturant.com and it met the 8 inch spread for the holes as well as a good price.  I believe with shipping, tax, it was less than $50.  Got all back together yesterday and am a happy camper now!

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #33 –

Joe, are you saying you opened and left open the gray and black valves and now have only the third valve to hold back the sludge?

I replaced both the gray and black valves with the center blade section of new valves.  I reused the flanges.
Amazon.com: Valterra T1003PBC 3" Valve Body: Automotive
Lube all of the moving parts and gaskets with silicone plumber's grease.

I reused the OEM cables.  Pulled the wire out and cleaned it us, lubed it with lithium grease.  They work fine.

The way I use mine is to start with all valves closed, double check connections, open the black valve about 1/4 of the way, open the third valve about 1/4 of the way and check to see if anything is misbehaving.  Believe me having just a small flow is way better than a full blown blow out. 

If all is OK the third valve gets opened all the way, black valve full open.

Once the black tank is empty, close the third valve and open the gray valve.  If you can monitor your tanks close the gray valve after about 1/4 has drained out or about 20 seconds.  This flushes gray water into the black tank.  Now open the third valve until the black tank is empty. Then close the third valve. 

Repeat a couple times until you have used 2/3 - 3/4 of the gray tank.  The black tank will be flushed out and empty. Close the black tank valve.

Open the third valve and the gray valve and let the gray tank empty.  Close the gray valve and the third valve.  Double check that all three valves are closed.  Deal with the hoses.

Other likely will do it differently but the idea is the same.

Roger

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Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #34 –
Yes, Roger, left open the black and grey and only have the 3rd valve.  When I dump, I flush the black out till clear water comes out and that cleans the sewer hose.  Have not had any issues with this and it sure is easier to dump now.  Of course, when I dump, I start slowly just to make sure all is okay!  Don't want any issues with that mess!

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #35 –
Joe, so basically your black tank and grey tank are open to each other all the time and your only valve is the third valve?

I admit, that would make me nervous. I like the redundancy that my 3rd valve gives me. I also like how I can use the grey tank to flush the black tank and the sewer hose... with three valves.

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #36 –
Quote from: Jeff & Sandy –
Joe, so basically your black tank and grey tank are open to each other all the time and your only valve is the third valve?

I admit, that would make me nervous. I like the redundancy that my 3rd valve gives me. I also like how I can use the grey tank to flush the black tank and the sewer hose... with three valves.

I have had no issue with this and the tanks show empty when dumped!  I do flush the system out quite well. 

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #37 –
Joe that gives you one valve to contain all your sewage. If that fails you're not going to like it. Just clean and relube them. Or replace them. It's cheap insurance.

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #38 –
New coaches do have combined holding tanks do they not?

Most new coaches were designed to have full hookups always

The idea of bootleg dumping of a grey tank is easier with split tanks.

Sink and shower water?  We used to be remote area dry campers in the open dez.....

Re: Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic)

Reply #39 –
Quote from: Caflashbob –
New coaches do have combined holding tanks do they not?

Most new coaches were designed to have full hookups always

The idea of bootleg dumping of a grey tank is easier with split tanks.

Sink and shower water?  We used to be remote area dry campers in the open dez.....

Bob, this is just the reason why I decided to go this route.  New RV's only have one dump valve for both.  I have full timed going on 7 years now and have never had any issues with dumping, ever!  I buy the best hoses and check them regularly.  I also don't just go out and open that valve all the way, as I open slightly and see if there is an issue and then proceed.  My tanks have been happier with this setup and I have been keeping more money in my pocket.  The last charge on repairing these valves with installing new ones in May last year was just over $500.  Was not a happy camper on that bill!  I hate to use the word, but dumping now is a much less stressful experience.  Just saying..................