Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #60 – January 21, 2021, 12:12:21 pm Quote from: Elliott – January 21, 2021, 11:00:52 amChuck this is awesome stuff, thank you for this. Has anyone been able to confirm whether or not the parts are the same on the early 2000 unicoaches? They are the same for a 1997.As FYI, if you order the re-build kit from Tom, it will include all of the orings needed except for the check valve and associated retainer plug orings. Tom's kit includes orings for the plunger seat, but they are the round type vs the square cut which appears to be the original style.On Tue, I ordered orings using the part list and supplier in this post. They arrived yesterday. The orings are between .01 to .08 cents each, but they do have a minimum quantity. Shipping will probably cost more than the orings but it is reasonable too. Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #61 – January 21, 2021, 07:21:32 pm I get o rings at a hydraulic repair shop. Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #62 – January 21, 2021, 09:05:34 pm I used the o-rings included in Toms kit, all works good. Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #63 – January 21, 2021, 10:45:10 pm They are the same as I used them on our 2000. They are also the same for Country Coach and any make with hwh 6 packs as far as I am awareJohnh Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #64 – January 22, 2021, 09:52:59 am There are solenoid operated air valves made by Deltrol. They are uncommon and the kits Tom sells will not work to rebuild these valves as his documentation clearly states. I bought a complete new HWH six pack manifold assembly on eBay that had these valves. The manifold was slightly different than the one on my coach but I used the Deltrol valves on my front six pack and so far all is good. These can be identified by their square shaped solenoids. Steve Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #65 – March 14, 2021, 11:25:03 am Add two 1/4 pipe to 3/8 hose 90 degree parker quick connectors to your list and you have what you need for the rear hose fittings! Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #66 – March 14, 2021, 01:22:07 pm I ordered a valve from Foretravel and the part # on the box is RAP 1940. If you google that part # you can buy them for more than half the price. Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #67 – March 18, 2021, 07:39:25 pm Question on rear 85lb pressure Nason switch. Mine is pretty ugly, but I guess I can test it. I assume I can put it online on my compressor hose. Do I apply 12v to it and it will close and then open at 85lb? Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #68 – March 18, 2021, 07:55:47 pm I applied 12v across the connectors on it and it blew the 7.5 amp fuse. Probably not working Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #69 – March 18, 2021, 08:27:32 pm Figured it out. Pressure at 85lb opens connection. It was set a little low. Adjusted works awesome Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #70 – September 07, 2021, 11:23:37 pm Adding some photos and tips to this thread instead of starting a new one, since it's the go-to guide. This is the rear manifold off my 2001. It's two 9/16 bolts holding the six pack on. A 3/4 nut holds the solenoids on. I found a small hooked dentist pick very useful for picking the old o-rings out, seating the smallest o-ring (using backside) and cleaning gunk out of the grooves the rings sit in (again, using the backside of the pick with a fine cloth)Don't forget to source pneumatic thread sealant before starting the job since it can be hard to source in person. Loctite 545 or similar is what you want. Silicon grease and dielectric grease both too. I took the solenoids out, it made testing each of them easy. If you do that, make sure you use colored zip ties or similar to mark the plugs so you know which ones go where when reinstalling. Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #71 – September 08, 2021, 08:39:29 am I think it's a good idea to cover the open ends of the air lines while the 6-pack manifold is removed from the coach. I like to use a piece of tinfoil for that purpose. Easy on - easy off.You want to be sure no bugs or dirt can get into those open lines. One tiny insect carcass in the wrong place could cause all kinds of mysterious leveling system problems. Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #72 – September 08, 2021, 10:05:17 am I changed to the Parker push on connectors. Now some of my hoses are too short, so be careful with this so.utionQuote from: Chuck & Jeannie – February 26, 2016, 07:31:53 pmSIX PACK REBUILD - COMPLETE PARTS LISTReminder: Everything I list here pertains to the FRONT six pack manifold on our '93 model coach, with the HWH 600 Series leveling system. It is up to you to verify if these items are the same on your coach. Newer models might differ, but I think the HWH hardware is pretty consistent over the model years.O-RINGSAll the O-rings I have encountered are standard AS568 sizes. These are readily available online, and possibly from local vendors. Online prices change, sometimes daily. I will link where I purchased my O-rings, but you should shop around for the best current price.Air Inlet Check Valve (2 in front manifold): AS568-10-010 N70 Buna-N Nitrile 70 O-ring [B70010] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make...Air Inlet Check Valve Retaining Plug (2 in front manifold): AS568-13-013 N70 Buna-N Nitrile 70 O-ring [B70013] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make...Between the brass valve and the aluminum manifold (small O-ring): AS568-15-015 N70 Buna-N Nitrile 70 O-ring [B70015] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make...Between the brass valve and the aluminum manifold (large O-ring): AS568-28-028 N70 Buna-N Nitrile 70 O-ring [B70028] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make...Brass valve internal seal, under the stainless armature tube (square O-ring): AS568-19019 Buna-N Square O-rings - Tetraseals [SN70019] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We...PRESSURE SWITCHOn the front six pack, there are 2 pressure switches, 10 PSI, Normally Closed: Originally made by Honeywell, part # 76578-10 NCStewart Warner-Stewart Warner - Hobbs Pressure Switch 10 psi Normally Closed...AIR CONNECTIONSOur front manifold was originally fitted with compression-type air connections. With my rebuild, I have elected to change over to more modern Parker Prestomatic "push to fit" air connections. These are now quite common on over-the-road trucks, are fully DOT approved for all air brake systems, and have a max pressure rating of 250 PSI. They are reusable, which will be handy if I ever need to remove this manifold again. You just push in on the tube and the retaining ring, and the tube pulls right out. Push the tube back into the fitting, and it is ready to go again. EASY!There are six air hose connectors, size 3/8" tube X 1/8" NPTParker Male Connector, 3/8 x 1/8 In 68PMT-6-2 | Zoro.comThere is one air hose connector, size 3/8" tube X 1/4" NPT (the air inlet fitting)Parker Male Connector, 3/8 x 1/4In 68PMT-6-4 | Zoro.comYou will also need one (or two) brass 1/8" NPT male X 1/8" NPT female 45 degree fittings. This is necessary because the mounting holes for the 2 pressure gauges are too close together to screw them straight in. One gauge must be offset to the side slightly. You can buy this fitting online (Amazon or eBay), or at your local NAPA store. I am planning on using 2 of these 45's, one for each gauge. This will allow easier access to the exhaust ports on the manifold, for the purpose of keeping them clean. See photos below: Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #73 – September 08, 2021, 10:29:09 am Quote from: Ldillow – September 08, 2021, 10:05:17 amI changed to the Parker push on connectors. Now some of my hoses are too short, so be careful with this solutionAgree - be careful. Measure twice - cut once.The push-on connectors work best when there is zero sideways strain on the air lines. Make sure you have sufficient slack in the lines before swapping to push-on connectors.Also, when using push-on connectors, air line ends should be cut off cleanly, with no burrs or deformation of the tubing. See my note (Reply #34) on the Parker tubing cut-off tool. Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #74 – September 08, 2021, 10:42:32 am Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie – September 08, 2021, 08:39:29 amI think it's a good idea to cover the open ends of the air lines while the 6-pack manifold is removed from the coach. I like to use a piece of tinfoil for that purpose. Easy on - easy off.You want to be sure no bugs or dirt can get into those open lines. One tiny insect carcass in the wrong place could cause all kinds of mysterious leveling system problems.One should also be careful with the manifold block itself, particularly the face where the valves screw on. That's an o-ring mating surface, it should be as smooth and clean as possible, and you need to be careful not to scratch it. Any radial scratches that cross the mating area can cause leaks. Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #75 – September 08, 2021, 12:01:09 pm Quote from: Michelle – September 08, 2021, 10:42:32 amOne should also be careful with the manifold block itself, particularly the face where the valves screw on. That's an o-ring mating surface, it should be as smooth and clean as possible, and you need to be careful not to scratch it. Any radial scratches that cross the mating area can cause leaks. Yes, and easy to bugger an O ring screwing the solenoid on, or any of the O rings for that matter......Ask me how I know.... Chris Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #76 – September 08, 2021, 12:50:16 pm Quote from: gracerace – September 08, 2021, 12:01:09 pmYes, and easy to bugger an O ring screwing the solenoid on, or any of the O rings for that matter......Ask me how I know.... Chris Just a tiny dab of o-ring grease (not too much, just enough) between clean thumb and forefinger, then gently drag/rotate (don't tug/stretch) the o-ring between them to LIGHTLY lubricate...(I spent too many years maintaining thin film vacuum deposition and etch equipment. Lots and lots of flanges and o-rings...) Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #77 – September 08, 2021, 03:21:08 pm I am still trying to figure out how the people that do this job without removing the manifold from the coach keep the o-rings clean. I came out looking like this. Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #78 – September 08, 2021, 03:37:52 pm Job is easier on some coaches than others due to location of the manifolds.On my U280 the front manifold is a piece of cake. I can roll under the coach on my creeper and then sit up to work comfortably in the shade, with the manifold hanging there at face level, totally unobstructed.My rear manifold, on the other hand, is just the exact opposite. I am a LOT dirtier than you after working on it.Plus, some extremely fortunate Forum members have service pits where they park their coach. Working underneath a coach while standing upright is much nicer. Quote Selected
Re: Working On My Six Pack Reply #79 – September 08, 2021, 05:59:35 pm Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie – September 08, 2021, 03:37:52 pmPlus, some extremely fortunate Forum members have service pits where they park their coach. Working underneath a coach while standing upright is much nicer.Building the pit so you set on a 5 gallon bucket is even better.Mike Quote Selected
Topic: Working On My Six Pack