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Topic: Travel Light Issue (Read 3777 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #25
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Found one for $40 + shipping:
You're a wonder, Chuck. Well, I tried removing one of the wires from the rear switch (air at 110psi, ignition switch on). The travel light did not come on so I guess that eliminates the pressure switch. The link you sent me (from Barry Beam's site) with the alternate test says, "Unplug the CN100 connector from the control box..." Any idea what connector that is? Also, a little confusing as this test speaks of a master control light which we don't have. Thanks.

Another thing. I found a BIG air leak this morning. I don't think it would influence this issue as I did the test with both gauges reading 110psi.

The plot thickens. Coach running with no travel light, level system prompt on beeper beeping. Enable air button, press the raise button and after a couple of seconds, light off and no beeper and travel light on. Wait a minute, light and beeper back with travel light off. Press raise, no light no beeper and travel light on. Leveled coach, turned off leveling system and travel light on!
jor
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #26
Jor, your comment on Chuck "wonder" has me wishing they owned a similar year coach as us as he has a knack for finding "stuff" for sure. Would save lots of time for me when needed (and knowledge)
Way to go Chuck, you are indeed helpful.
JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #27
The "Master Control" light your referencing is the "Level System" indicator on the warning light strip on the dash, the same panel that shows low air pressure, check engine, etc. On ours, when the control box (HWH computer) failed, I was confused by that description. Turned out that the troubleshooting tree which says
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"With the ignition switch on: a. The green "TRAVEL" light nor the master warning light is lit." AND "Whenever the ignition switch is "ON" one of these lights will be lit but never both at the same time. If neither light is on, check the power to the control box. The yellow wire in the power harness will have +12 volts with the ignition in the "ON" position. The red wire should have +12 volts with the ignition in any position. If the yellow wire has power replace the control box. If not, trace the yellow wire to its source."
This was the issue with our coach, and I chose to replace HWH computer. No problem since... If I read it correctly, you said that the "Level System" light was on. If so, that probably means your computer is not the issue. I hope that is the case, though the HWH computer can likely be repaired much cheaper than being replaced, there is no way to tell short of sending it in.
Don

You're a wonder, Chuck. Well, I tried removing one of the wires from the rear switch (air at 110psi, ignition switch on). The travel light did not come on so I guess that eliminates the pressure switch. The link you sent me (from Barry Beam's site) with the alternate test says, "Unplug the CN100 connector from the control box..." Any idea what connector that is? Also, a little confusing as this test speaks of a master control light which we don't have. Thanks.

Another thing. I found a BIG air leak this morning. I don't think it would influence this issue as I did the test with both gauges reading 110psi.

The plot thickens. Coach running with no travel light, level system prompt on beeper beeping. Enable air button, press the raise button and after a couple of seconds, light off and no beeper and travel light on. Wait a minute, light and beeper back with travel light off. Press raise, no light no beeper and travel light on. Leveled coach, turned off leveling system and travel light on!
jor
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Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #28
Don,
  Thanks for that info on the master light. I'm going to run that test now. Actually, I'm not. Have to fix this massive air leak first.
jor
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #29
There should be a schematic on the inside of the control box lid. You should be able to figure out which plug that is.
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #30
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There should be a schematic on the inside of the control box lid
I've been looking at the manual schematics. Turns out that the text Don quoted is the same as in my manual so the Barry Beam text doesn't apply. Anyhow, after I get the leak fixed I'll return it to ride height and run the test for power at the box. I'm hoping it's not the box although I sent one in for repair a few years ago and it came back within a couple of weeks and it was relatively inexpensive. Thanks.
jor
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #31
Just sent schematics to you...hope they help.
George and Steph
1997 U270 36 Build 5081 "Honu"
1180w Solar 400A lithium all Victron house system
Motorcade 17670, SKP 128300, FMCA F459019
73 VW Camper, 79 VW Camper, 2363 Sunline, and an Arctic Fox 25P

Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #32
@jor

I haven't rebuild my rear 6-pack yet - waiting for cooler weather - so I have never really paid any attention to the pressure switch back there.  This thread got me curious, so I crawled under this morning and cleaned the switch off so I could get a good look at it.  Guess what?  It looks exactly like the one in your photo!  There is no label or i.d. info of any kind affixed to my switch, so I can't say if it is the same brand/model/rating as yours.  BUT, I would say this suggests that your switch may, indeed, be original equipment.  If you ever hear back from HWH, they should be able to verify that fact.

It would be pretty easy to pull your pressure switch off and check it's function.  Get a 1/8" or 1/4" (whichever matches your pressure switch thread) NPT female "T".  They have them at Lowe's and Home Depot.  Screw the pressure switch in one end, put a cheap pressure gauge (also available at Lowe's/HD) in the other end, and a quick connect air fitting in the 3rd hole.  With a multimeter, check the continuity across the contacts as you slowly add air pressure.  Meter should beep (closed circuit) until the opening pressure of the switch is reached, then silence.  Note the pressure.

I have no idea what the CN100 connector is...never had to mess with our HWH brain box (knock on wood).

Where was the big air leak? 
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #33
OK, here's where I'm at. I fixed the big air leak so at least I won't have to worry about that. Anyhow, when I got it off the blocks I leveled it. No problem. However, when I turned off the HWH, the dash light (now known to be the master warning light) came back on and, of course, no travel light. I checked the air bags and the two front left were deflated. I turned the HWH back on and manually raised the coach. The master light went out and the travel light came on. This appears to be the symptom that should lead to a solution.

The manual says in this instance, go to Section 7. That's where I'm at now.
jor
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #34
OK. Did the Section 7 diagnostics. I have 12v at the control box for both Travel solenoids. This indicates the problem is a bad solenoid. I can raise, lower and level but the front lefts won't inflate automatically. That is, they won't return to travel mode.

Now, I'm back to an earlier post regarding whether I can drive it like this. Need to re-read those suggestions. If I raise the front left manually, the travel light comes on and all appears well. BTW, I am sure this is the longest thread I've ever initiated!
jor
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #35
OK. Did the Section 7 diagnostics. I have 12v at the control box for both Travel solenoids. This indicates the problem is a bad solenoid. I can raise, lower and level but the front lefts won't inflate automatically. That is, they won't return to travel mode.

Now, I'm back to an earlier post regarding whether I can drive it like this. Need to re-read those suggestions. If I raise the front left manually, the travel light comes on and all appears well. BTW, I am sure this is the longest thread I've ever initiated!
jor
Back earlier I posted that I drove over 2400 mi. without travel working. I didn't know anything other than the right front tire was rubbing the floor and manually raised and drove home.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #36
I have a plan. I'm going to get as close to ride height as possible, pull the #11 fuse and hit the road. I'm ordering solenoids and hopefully pressure switches too from Motorhomes which will be delivered in Oregon. Then, when everyone is sitting around drinking wine and eating cheese, I'll be installing those parts (provided we make it, of course). Thanks to all for the great advice.
jor
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #37
I drove the coach after doing my best eyeball ride height measurement (while stopped at a relatively level spot), and although nerve racking because I didn't know what the result would be, didn't have any problem. We drove a total of about 300 miles all told. I stopped several times to check the ride height, but it seemed to stay where I put it. It did seem not to track as well, but I attributed that to there being no dynamic adjustment of ride height in response to changing road conditions.
Don
OK. Did the Section 7 diagnostics. I have 12v at the control box for both Travel solenoids. This indicates the problem is a bad solenoid. I can raise, lower and level but the front lefts won't inflate automatically. That is, they won't return to travel mode.

Now, I'm back to an earlier post regarding whether I can drive it like this. Need to re-read those suggestions. If I raise the front left manually, the travel light comes on and all appears well. BTW, I am sure this is the longest thread I've ever initiated!
jor
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Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #38
Make a ride height checker to allow you to quickly check while on the road.  Just be sure to park on a level place to check.

I use a scrap of wood, then drill and install two long nails 8.5" center to center.  The 8.5" dimension is from the top of the top mounting plate to the bottom of the bottom mounting plate. This is easier to measure than the 8" for bag itself (plates are 1/4" thick).

Remember, there are two ride height valves in back, only the one in front.  So, any side to side adjustment needs to be made first (i.e. the rear).  Then (ya, with everything working as it should) the "average" of the fronts should be the same 8.5".  So, if left front is heavier than right front, you might have 8.25" on left front and 8.75 on right front (though that is probably an exaggeration unless you have a very heavy rock collection on the left side)..
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #39
Thanks, Brett. That's a nifty idea on the measuring device. I had a neat one I got from Wayne down at FT but I let it go with our last coach. Wish I could fix this right before we leave but we gotta go.
jor
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #40
Thanks, Brett. That's a nifty idea on the measuring device. I had a neat one I got from Wayne down at FT but I let it go with our last coach. Wish I could fix this right before we leave but we gotta go.
jor
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unless you have a very heavy rock collection on the left side)..
Ricky made me throw them all out.
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #41
Just about out of ideas. Today I intended to get it at ride height and pull the #11 fuse. Ride height is no problem on the back as it is just about right without adjustment. The problem is with the front. The coach will hold air in all bags all night long but as soon as I start the engine (with the HWH off) the left front bags immediately deflate completely. I tried to get it reasonably close manually after pulling the fuse but I can't dump the front bags completely; the right two deflate partially but not all the way. I can raise the front and the travel light comes on but then the front is way high. Can't see how I can drive it like this.

Question: I've seen photos of bags and know that the actual air bag is inside the bladder we see. Here's the question. If the outside bladder is soft (can push it in easily with a finger) is the inner bag partially inflated?

Have a call into Triana and Keith at MOT.
jor
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #42
Jor,
Unless you are on level ground you can't get both sides on the front down all the way. As soon as the first front side bottoms out that 10psi switch will take power off the other side dump solenoid to stop that side from continuing down and twisting the coach.
That's what the 10psi switches are there for.
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #43
Thanks, John. Understood. The ground in my driveway is not level but I drove the coach up onto a couple of 2x10s to get close to level. The problem is that as soon as I turn the ignition on those two front lefts lose all their air. Just can't figure out how to get it close to ride height so I can pull the fuse.
jor
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #44
Jor,
Can you tell where the air comes out?
Is it coming out of the vent by the dump valve in the six pack (dump solenoid)or out through the (travel solenoid)ride height control valve?
How are you getting air in those bags?
Can you raise the front with the  aux pump?
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #45
I have s similar issue with my coach.  When starting at 110 psi on gauges, level switch off.  The front will rise but the rear will not come up to travel mode.  After raising the coach manually the travel light will come on.  I just didn't know if it was the ride height valves or the pressure switch in the rear.  After following this conversation I think I will start with the pressure switch.  The funny thing is once I get it up I can dump all the air start the coach and it will go into travel mode with no problem.  I do this many times and it works beautiful.  I let it sit for a few days and I'm back to the same problem.  Could the pressure switch be getting stuck?
John & Carm Morales

"We travel not to go anywhere, but to just go.  We travel for travel's sake.  Our great desire is to move."

Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #46
John,
  I think your comment re level ground is the answer for getting it close to ride height. My driveway is large gravel and very uneven. I drove the coach up a little higher and raised it manually and turned it off. Then I pulled the fuse and started adjusting the front down. Ended up uneven side to side but much closer and the left air bags are inflated. Then I adjusted the back manually with pretty much the same results. I'm thinking I could drive it to a level parking lot and do the manual adjust without the fuse and then drive on. What do you think? Thanks.

Re air exit. I am not sure. It's not a large volume and I can ONLY hear it when the ignition switch is ON.
jor

PS: Travel light is on.
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #47
I guess if it was me and I didn't have to go too far I would do it if I didn't have any other option.
Go easy over any driveway entrances and hit them square if you can.
If you have it fairly close to even it shouldn't be a problem.
The worst thing you can do is break a windshield !😬
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #48
JOR, did you hear back from HWH today?
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Re: Travel Light Issue

Reply #49
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did you hear back from HWH today?
Nope. I did call just to see what was going on with technical support. They take your number and you can expect a call in 10 days or so.

Called Foretravel tech support too. Wondered how the premium membership deal would work. Been five hours; haven't heard anything.
jor
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