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Topic: Power Line Monitor Replacement (Read 2041 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Power Line Monitor Replacement

Reply #25 –
Quote from: DavidS –
I know this is old but I wanted to update on my power line monitor.. I was only getting a glow on 1 light on each leg and a slight glow at that.. If anyone is interested just pm but I have a guy that fixed it for me.. working great .. cost was 150.00 plus parts..

If it's just the lights, not the readout, you can do it yourself and save a few bucks

Power Line Monitor Is On The Fritz
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Power Line Monitor Replacement

Reply #26 –
Well I finally got around to replacing the wiring to the line 1 circuit which has been out of commission for the last 6 years.  I also had to replace a new green led for the Powerwatch meter.  https://www.zoro.com/dayton-raised-indicator-light-green-120v-22ny50/i/G8489214/

It took 50 ft of 12-2 yellow romex and two splices with wago connectors.  I had to take apart a lot of cabinetry and carpet trim to pull the old wire and ended up running the the last connection around the bed frame.  I cut because I couldn't pull the original line that ran from the bed outlet on the drivers side under the floor and the shower pan. I was able to pull the new wire from the Powerwatch in the cabinet above the stairwell back to behind the toilet and then under the shower back to the bedroom vanity.  I then had to go up through the vanity to reach the the outlet in the cabinet next to the vanity. The second splice went from that outlet back down inside the vanity to the floor and around back to the bed outlet to complete the circuit!

The Powerwatch  and all the outlets on line 1 are tested correct and working. All that is left to do is to install some baseboard moulding.  I don't know why that line went out originally. I remember hearing a pop when it happened.  Only the bed outlets were working and the other two were dead along with the Powerwatch.  A dirty rat? (never did find one)  Can old romex develop a hot spot over time?

Jerry













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Jerry and Cindy Maddux
1993 U300/36WTBI DD6v92TA
build 4271  "Miss Lou"
1995 suzuki sidekick 4x4 toad
Gulfport, Ms

"Pride of Ownership"

Re: Power Line Monitor Replacement

Reply #27 –
Quote from: coastprt –

 I don't know why that line went out originally. I remember hearing a pop when it happened.  Only the bed outlets were working and the other two were dead along with the Powerwatch.  A dirty rat? (never did find one)  Can old romex develop a hot spot over time?

Odds of the wire going bad on it's own are slim.  It is possible that rat ate the insulation and wires shorted together and then burned in two. Other possibility is a splice went bad and you did not find it.

Instead of using the wago connectors I would make the connection up in a junction box and twist the wires together, then use a good red wire nut over junction and twist it on tight.  Almost all recess cans come with Wago connectors. We always told our crews to cut them off and make a joint with a wire nut.  Whenever we had a service call on recess not working, the first thing to check was bulb and then the connection. Most time the wago was the problem.
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago

Re: Power Line Monitor Replacement

Reply #28 –
Quote from: turbojack –
Odds of the wire going bad on it's own are slim.  It is possible that rat ate the insulation and wires shorted together and then burned in two. Other possibility is a splice went bad and you did not find it.

Instead of using the wago connectors I would make the connection up in a junction box and twist the wires together, then use a good red wire nut over junction and twist it on tight.  Almost all recess cans come with Wago connectors. We always told our crews to cut them off and make a joint with a wire nut.  Whenever we had a service call on recess not working, the first thing to check was bulb and then the connection. Most time the wago was the problem.

Turbojack,

Thanks for the tech advice on the connections and junction box.  The wagos I used were the 3-wire lever type and are easily removable for reuse. I only used them for testing purposes when I took the pictures.  The two splices I did will be upgraded to the twisted wire and red wire nuts.  I will also use a junction box for the others splices.

Jerry 
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Jerry and Cindy Maddux
1993 U300/36WTBI DD6v92TA
build 4271  "Miss Lou"
1995 suzuki sidekick 4x4 toad
Gulfport, Ms

"Pride of Ownership"