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Topic: Redirect Water Overfill Hose (Read 1461 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Redirect Water Overfill Hose

Reply #25
Oh Don! Very nice. 

I would avoid any penetrations of the bay floor.  In my mind any failure of the overflow hose puts water into the bay and there is a risk of water intrusion from the bottom.  Plus the hose is subject to bugs, animals, flood water -- all things I would not want in my fresh water tank.

The existing overflow drain exits the rear bulkhead it seems and excess water runs down the bulkhead.  Why not just extend the drain hose a foot or so so that it runs out of the extended hose away from the bulkhead.  The end of the hose is out of harm's (and bigs and mice etc.) way.

Is there some reason this won't work?

Since adding my SeeLevel with a wet bay display, I haven't had an over-fill. I fill to about 95%.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Redirect Water Overfill Hose

Reply #26
Roger on mine the over flow comes out right behind the air bag, it would be a real tough place to work.
Bruce, Linda, and Macy
Zoey RIP 1/20/19
1999 U295 40' build #5400
2017 silver Jeep Wrangler, 1260 watts of solar on top
Moving around the country

Re: Redirect Water Overfill Hose

Reply #27
Roger,
My freshwater overflow set up is a bit more complicated. As it is currently set up, that drain manifold set up just handles all of the drains, i.e. the fresh tank drain, hot water drain, cold water drain, the washer drain pan. I have one port left...  I just wanted to show one way of protecting the space between the basement skins from water intrusion since that is where my bulkhead joint misery originally started. I went from 4 separate floor penetrations with the original set up to just one. My FW drain actually goes up into the washer plumbing alcove in the closet (has a top hat vent placed as high as possible in that space) and then back down through the the floor near the fresh tank and then out through a bulkhead fitting in the original location for the overflow. It is terminated with a PVC 1 1/4" elbow after it passes through a bulkhead fitting. I planned to run a pipe over to the street side where the fresh tank overflow would be visible from the street side utility bay. I haven't bothered with that yet as I can fill the tank over a hundred percent and still not have any slosh out while driving. If any water got into the drain manifold, that is as far is could go as the valves are normally closed unless draining the system. Well except for washer overflow pan... I leave that valve open when we are using the coach in case the washer was to develop a leak. If we were in water deep enough to get that far, I would have far bigger problems!
Don
Oh Don! Very nice. 

I would avoid any penetrations of the bay floor.  In my mind any failure of the overflow hose puts water into the bay and there is a risk of water intrusion from the bottom.  Plus the hose is subject to bugs, animals, flood water -- all things I would not want in my fresh water tank.

The existing overflow drain exits the rear bulkhead it seems and excess water runs down the bulkhead.  Why not just extend the drain hose a foot or so so that it runs out of the extended hose away from the bulkhead.  The end of the hose is out of harm's (and bigs and mice etc.) way.

Is there some reason this won't work?

Since adding my SeeLevel with a wet bay display, I haven't had an over-fill. I fill to about 95%.
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Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Redirect Water Overfill Hose

Reply #28
A "siphon break" would be another option for the overflow line.  Very familiar with them from the sailboats, since the engine and raw water exhaust of the engine are below the waterline!

Lots of styles, just do a search on "siphon break".
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Redirect Water Overfill Hose

Reply #29
Thanks Don and Brett, I like it idea of the overflow line draining over by the wet bay where you would actually see it. And you do need a vent of some sort. Going up into the space where the washer hook ups are for a vacuum breaker would work.

Great ideas, thanks!
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Redirect Water Overfill Hose

Reply #30
It's been discussed before....but what is the problem that is being solved by this relocation?  The overflow dumps water to the same location that very much water gets when one drives in the rain.

Another thing to check, though: my overflow leaks at the tank if I fill my water tank 100% I can see it dripping down to the basement floor. Either the hose is leaking on the barb or the fitting is leaking where it is attached to the tank. It's impossible to repair without removing the water heater.

I put a rag on the floor where it drips and don't fill the tank full. If I do fill it full, I make sure to empty it below the point that makes it leak.....and the well placed rag keep water from pooling LOL.
1998 U270 34'

Re: Redirect Water Overfill Hose

Reply #31
The OEM tank overflow runs down the back side of the rear bulkhead.  There may be some road spray around the mud flap but it is much less than an overflowing tank.  And many just fill the tank until it is running on the ground, it is not easy to know how full it is sometimes or you start filling and get busy with something else.

The point is trying to limit any water intrusion into the bulkhead or floor structure to prevent rust. 
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Redirect Water Overfill Hose

Reply #32
For the time being I just sprayed undercoating all the way across the frame and up the vertical on the inboard side of the overflow. Including the bulkhead bolts. When I check the bolts again next year I will scrape the head off them off and re-spray after.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean