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Topic: Another (Interior) LED Project (Read 4466 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Another (Interior) LED Project

Reply #20 –
Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 –
So for fluorescents there is not much power savings, a bit more light but it is a easier light to live with, cooler, no noise and dimmable...
One BIG advantage for us will be the greatly reduced IRRITATION factor.  It seems like I was constantly having to replace those d%&# little thin fluorescent tubes.  Our under-cabinet lights used the F13T5 (long) and F8T5 (short) bulbs.  On our recent 5-week trip, I had to replace 6 of the long tubes, and 2 of the short ones.  Even with fresh bulbs, sometimes the lights would work - sometimes they wouldn't.  I became proficient at smacking the bottom of the cabinet with my hand to coax a reluctent light into operation.  I don't know if our coach was particularly hard on the bulbs for some reason, or if the short bulb life we experienced is typical for that particular size.

Whatever the reason, finally having reliable lights that come on every time will be, to us, priceless!  b^.^d

Re: Another (Interior) LED Project

Reply #21 –
Chuck, you might want to check voltages at your lights.  If the flourescent bulbs are burning out then voltage might be off.  LEDs like 12 volts and the better strings can manage a range that is typical in our coaches. Ground paths can be iffy.  I notice that turning my water pump on will cause the LR and BR LEDs to blink for a fraction of a second,  almost imperceptibly.  You can only see it if eveything is dark. Not so with kitchen lights. So there must be some interaction going on that I have not found. 

This is an effort that has big payoff in reliability and useful light levels that we are glad we did.

Re: Another (Interior) LED Project

Reply #22 –
I just finished the last of my 4 "down the center of the ceiling" light fixtures.  My final design still looks the same as the photos I posted earlier, except I cleaned up the wiring on the outside of the unit, and made it more robust.  Someone asked me (in a PM) why I didn't just connect both the positive and negative wires to the same end of each strip.  The answer is: I like to make things complicated for myself.  :))  No, the real reason is that I read online (while researching LED light strips) that connecting the power leads to opposite ends of the strip helps make the light output from each LED more uniform.  I don't know if this is actually correct or not...perhaps it is only valid in really long strips.  In any case, it isn't that hard to route the ground wire along the outside edge of the fixture, so that's what I did.

I also found a old 120V to 12V power transformer in my electrical junk box.  I made up a little bench test power supply so I can check the lights before I take them out to the coach.  Very handy!

Re: Another (Interior) LED Project

Reply #23 –
I mentioned earlier that I had purchased some "quarter round" aluminum channels with frosted covers.  I've been looking around inside the coach for possible applications.  A recent posting by JohnFitz showing his nicely finished "custom" stair well with LED lighting got me to thinking.  I decided to try a similar approach on our stairs.  I made up 2 light units and stuck them (with double-sided tape) in the vertical orientation on both sides of the door opening.  The size of the aluminum channel is a perfect fit in that spot - they do not stick out past the metal door frame.  I wired them to operate with the original stair light switch on the wood wall just inside the door.  They will be a great help in avoiding trips and falls down the stairs (as is being discussed in another current thread).

Re: Another (Interior) LED Project

Reply #24 –
I found another application for the corner lights in the bathroom.  I've never liked the "3 bulb" light over the mirror above the sink.  It is terrible for shaving because all the light is above your head.  All I see is shadows on my face (due, no doubt, to the great number of wrinkles).  Still, it is working fine, and fits in with the overall decor, so I hate to rip it out and throw it away.  I decided adding a couple small light tubes on each side of the mirror would brighten up things considerably, and allow us to retain the original light fixture.  I used the double-stick tape again, to avoid drilling any holes.  I think they look pretty good, and they REALLY improve the amount and direction of light.  I won't have any trouble shaving with those lights on!  They may be a little too bright - time will tell.  If so, I can simply install a dimmer.

Working with these LED strips is really great fun.  I encourage every member to buy a couple strips and do some experimenting.

Re: Another (Interior) LED Project

Reply #25 –
Chuck, we're going to have to start calling you "the light man😀

Re: Another (Interior) LED Project

Reply #26 –
Let's see... last time I shaved was in 1969.  4 minutes a day times 48 years times 365 days divided by 60 min/hr is 1168 hrs I spent on something else. 48+ days.  I wonder what I got done?

Chuck is right. This is a fairly simple thing to figure out and do your self. The benefits are significant at a pretty low cost.

Re: Another (Interior) LED Project

Reply #27 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
I wired them to operate with the original stair light switch on the wood wall just inside the door.
Chuck,

Where did you run the wires?

Is the brown rectangel on the left side of the stairs the original light?

Thanks,

Trent

Re: Another (Interior) LED Project

Reply #28 –
Quote from: TulsaTrent –
Where did you run the wires?

Is the brown rectangel on the left side of the stairs the original light?
Yes, the brown thing is the original (worthless) step light.  It still functions, along with the new lights, when I flip the original switch.

On our GV, running the wires was easier than I thought it would be.  By carefully studying the layout and position of the bottom stair step, I determined that the project was feasible.  Standing outside, facing the stair well, the left-side light is easy.  In the corner of the step, drill down and to the left, and you come out in the storage bay "next door", close to the bay door frame.  On the right side, drill straight down in the corner of the step, and you come out in a 2" high open space that runs under the bottom step.  I pushed the power wire down the hole, and reached into the open space from the storage bay (with a piece of hooked coat hanger wire) until I was able to grab it and pull it on through.  Sounds harder than it is.  Once both wires were in the storage bay, I ran them up to meet the wires feeding the original step light, and connected them all together.

I wish I had thought about this mod before we had the tile work done - I would have avoided having the hole cut for the original light.