Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Topic: Furniture Oil/Polish Application (Read 2362 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #25 – March 10, 2017, 09:04:02 am

When I built my house I used Polymerized Tung Oil from Sutherland Welles, Ltd – Tung Oil Finishes for... Murdock's Hard Oil was the specific product.

I'm guessing that FT cabinets were finished with lacquer. I have successfully applied their lounge oil over the top of lacquer. I would call and ask them about which product to use and the procedure. A de-waxer would have to be used first. Yes, there will be some smell from the off gassing of the tongue oil, however, they cook the oil first which allows the oil to dry fast. Different levels of sheen can be achieved by how the product is applied. The wood is permanently sealed. There is nothing in the finish to ever yellow or crack.

It would be worth a test in an isolated cabinet.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #26 – March 10, 2017, 09:07:44 am

Quote from: OverTheHill – March 10, 2017, 09:04:02 am

I'm guessing that FT cabinets were finished with lacquer. I have successfully applied their lounge oil over the top of lacquer. I would call and ask them about which product to use and the procedure.

Pre-2006 (at least), FT used Sherwin Williams Sanding Sealer as the finish.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #27 – March 10, 2017, 12:07:29 pm

Quote from: Michelle – March 10, 2017, 09:07:44 am

Pre-2006 (at least), FT used Sherwin Williams Sanding Sealer as the finish.

A sanding sealer is used as the first coat to fill in the larger pores of the wood. Then a stain (I don't think they used stain) and multiple finish coats.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #28 – March 10, 2017, 12:51:45 pm

It has been talked about as long as I have been a member on forum that FT ONLY used that sanding sealer. Remember that the woods they use in our coach's have a much tighter grain than softer woods and fine sanded very well.
I think you will find out this is correct and do not forget Michelle is a sticker for facts and a great resource too.

JohnH

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #29 – March 10, 2017, 03:14:13 pm

Not sure on production, but that is how David Flanagan finishes his walnut cabinet remods

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #30 – March 10, 2017, 04:18:28 pm

Tim, which post are you referring to 27 or 28?
JohnH

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #31 – March 10, 2017, 04:24:53 pm

Sanding sealer as only finish on walnut at FT remodel shop

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #32 – March 10, 2017, 08:07:29 pm

Google Sherwin Williams sanding sealer or wood sealer and you will see there are many choices.

There are pre-stain sealers that you put on woods with a wide range of surface densities (like maple) before using common stains to get a more uniform result.

Sanding sealers are usually pretty soft which helps them fill grain. Many coats, sanded each time gets you a very smooth surface with chemistry such that the final finishes (varnish, poly or lacquer) bond well. This is like many sanded coats of primer on a vintage car before the final coats of candy apple red are applied. Sanding sealers by themselves are generally not waterproof nor alcohol resistant. They are frequently a 1 pound cut of shellac (shellac flakes and alcohol, 1:8 by weight) which will impart a bit of a yellowish to orange tint.

There are newer spray on catalyzed lacquers that are much more alcohol and water resistant that can be sanded and reapplied to build up the surface level and durability.

Most of the furniture I make is quarter sawn white oak. It gets base colored with alcohol and dye tints and then at least six coats of catalyzed oil, wet sanded with 600 grit wet or dry paper, wiped dry and left to cure overnight. This finish is in the wood not just on it and very durable and has the feel and sheen I want. Finally waxed of course. Both the cherry and walnut used in our coaches change color as they age. I use the same process to get very good matches to the aged cherry in our coach.

It is very hard to imagine what FT used 12-25 years ago. Probably something that isn't made anymore for environmental and health reasons. The catalyzed lacquers are very common finishes today because production time is low and durability is high.

Whatever they used 16 years ago in our 2001 has a wonderful feel and sheen and seems pretty durable. I am doing everything I can to preserve and protect it.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #33 – March 10, 2017, 11:10:02 pm

Great thread. A window leak had discolored the wood

and I was wondering how to repair the spots. I was

wondering what stain was used? Now I will strip and

see what it looks like and go back with sanding sealer.

Thanks everybody, have a great weekend,

Carter-

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #34 – March 11, 2017, 01:46:48 am

Typically American black walnut needs no stain to be beautiful but check with our experts. Only straight grain wood that may be more expensive may be rosewood.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #35 – March 11, 2017, 10:13:58 am

Quote from: John Haygarth – March 10, 2017, 12:51:45 pm

It has been talked about as long as I have been a member on forum that FT ONLY used that sanding sealer. Remember that the woods they use in our coach's have a much tighter grain than softer woods and fine sanded very well.
I think you will find out this is correct and do not forget Michelle is a sticker for facts and a great resource too.
JohnH

Michelle keep being a sticker for the facts.

I stopped by the shop of the man who made the cabinets for my house yesterday and asked him about just using a sanding sealer. He said he had never heard of that being done. Regardless of whether or not the cabinets were just finished with a sanding sealer or not, I hear people saying that they are having maintenance problems with the finish. I am just suggesting one alternative to what has been tried by different people. 1st thing would be to check the compatibility of the tongue oil and the original finish and use a wax remover.

Today most kitchen cabinets are finished with lacquer or polyurethane. Lacquer yellows with age and polyurethane, in my opinion, kills the natural beauty and richness of the wood. The reason for this is that oil based finishes penetrate into the wood more and bring out the natural color in the wood. The pictures I have seen of FT walnut cabinets show variations in the color. I really like that look. The wood in my house is cherry. Most commercial products are stained to a desired color and then finished. This process fast and you don't have to wait 6 months to a year for the wood to develop its color. With stain you lose the richness and color variation.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #36 – March 11, 2017, 10:30:29 am

Quote from: OverTheHill – March 11, 2017, 10:13:58 am

Michelle keep being a sticker for the facts.

Ha ha! I was just sharing what David Flanagan at FOT had told us and several others when we asked him, and some years ago someone had contacted the folks in production and was told the same thing. Ours was for a TV cabinet remod we did.

Finishes did change somewhere around 2006 or so - they went to a much higher gloss on some coaches and also did some stained options rather than just a clear finish.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #37 – March 11, 2017, 01:39:35 pm

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the original question. When I was at Foretravel last time the wood shop told me to use ZEP "Wood Doctor" and they even demonstrated it on the walnut cabinets in my coach. They have spray cans of the stuff strategically located on the table in the office where you pay your bill, causing me to purchase a can of it of course. Spray some onto a soft cotton rag and wipe it onto the walnut. It works great... Is this what you were asking? ...If you're building new walnut cabinets and you want them to match your current wood you need to order dark walnut, which is slightly different when ordered from California than when ordered from the rest of the nation. Order a small piece first and see if it matches. Finish it with sanding sealer. Don't use any stain. This is what they told me in the wood shop at Foretravel. I did this and my new woodwork matches the existing wood exactly.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #38 – March 11, 2017, 02:30:57 pm

The OP asked how to apply whatever you choose to use. A small soft rag works well. With ZEP WD wear nitrile glove, eye protection and a respirator mask.

ZEP Wood Doctor MSDS
Handling
Pressurized container: protect from sunlight and do not expose to temperatures exceeding 50°C. Do not pierce or burn, even after use. Store and use away from heat, sparks, open flame or any other ignition source. Put on appropriate personal protective equipment (see section

. Do not get in eyes or on skin or clothing. Do not breathe vapor or mist. Do not ingest. Avoid breathing gas. Use only with adequate ventilation. Wear appropriate respirator when ventilation is inadequate. Wash thoroughly after handling.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
Eyes, Hands and Body, Respiratory
Recommended: Safety glasses. Recommended: Nitrile gloves.
Recommended: Use with adequate ventilation. Provide exhaust ventilation or other engineering controls to keep the airborne concentrations of vapors below their respective occupational exposure limits.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #39 – March 11, 2017, 03:45:06 pm

I don't doubt that it works well but, Paraffin Oil is the same thing as Kerosene which is why it is good at removing wax.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #40 – March 11, 2017, 04:14:58 pm

Roger has good suggestions: Do we need air tanks and re-breathers?

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #41 – March 11, 2017, 04:33:16 pm

Oil finishes have their downsides. That is why Southerner Wells products are very expensive. They cook the tongue oil so that it cures and can be re-coated in a couple of hours vs. days. They also add lemon oil to mask the smell. The upside is oil finishes are beautiful.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #42 – April 17, 2017, 09:16:14 pm

Linseed oil really worked nicely on my water discolored wood .

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #43 – April 17, 2017, 09:18:39 pm

Quote from: Protech Racing – April 17, 2017, 09:16:14 pm

Linseed oil really worked nicely on my water discolored wood .

Boiled or raw?

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #44 – April 17, 2017, 09:21:00 pm

I think that it says boiled on the can but will check tues. I had it from my airplane days, for inside of the tubing. .

Boiled . it is.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #45 – April 18, 2017, 01:01:31 am

Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 – March 03, 2017, 06:16:33 pm

Last time through NAC I got son ZEP Wood Doctor. As a woodworker I was not as pleased with the results as most seem to be. It looks nice for awhile but then the wood in our coach takes on a dull dry look, probably from the solvents in it.

Four years ago I bought this stuff. Put it on (very light coat) with a rag. Let it sit for 20 min or so and then wipe it off with a dry rag. I have almost half of it left and the entire inside of the coach gets done every month or two. The resulting wood color and luster is what I want. And it is way cheaper than WoodDoc which you can't just spray on anyway.

Amazon.com: Howard FW0016 Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish and Conditioner, 16-Ounce:...

It is just like your coach, there are no shortcuts to keeping it looking great.

I took Roger's advice (which is always a good idea) and bought Feed N Wax and like it MUCH better than the ZEP product.

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #46 – April 18, 2017, 11:48:49 pm

So whats wrong with just using Old English? I've been using it years.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #47 – April 19, 2017, 12:17:35 am

Here's a pic of our wood kit.

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #48 – April 19, 2017, 12:21:11 am

any before and after pics?

Re: Furniture Oil/Polish Application

Reply #49 – April 19, 2017, 11:20:05 am

I too took Roger's advice and recently got some Howard Feed and Wax. We have an old oak ice box that we turned into a liquor cabinet back about 1970. My wife refinished it (the only time she ever did any refinishing) and I remember her using bees wax on it.
It still looks as good as it did back then, so when I saw Roger's recommendation it got my attention.

I haven't used it yet, but I'm sure it's what my cabinets need.

Thanks Roger!

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