Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #50 – May 20, 2017, 11:03:32 pm Quote from: John Haygarth – May 20, 2017, 10:49:17 pmSven, so the new replacement Rad was 3/4" wider and that was from the OEM manufacturer? Any reasons given for that change?Hope you did take many more pics etc as I should be doing this fairly soon as it would sure be nice to be able to r+r the hydraulics at the same time and clean up framework etc. Well done.johnHJohn, the radiator has the same dimensions. I measured the bottom of the new radiator (after installation) and the top of the old one, not taking into account the 3/4 inch was due to the carriage. I have not figured out why the forward diagonal rod did not match up. It bows a little coming around the edge, but fits. I will be happy to help out in any way I can when you get started. I will have to write a lot of this down before I forget. Quote Selected
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #51 – May 29, 2017, 06:21:37 pm Finally all done. Only thing left is to replace the radiator cap which doesn't have the upper seal. While replacing all the radiator hoses, I made a disturbing discovery. One of the "hump hoses" (Gates 23562) looked fine, but had a huge split on the inside wall. It would have failed somewhere on the road had I not changed it out. I would recommend everyone carry an extra one, since they are very difficult to find. NAPA had one in Kansas and I ordered one from North Carolina. Something to ponder when stuck somewhere by the road. Quote Selected 3 Likes
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #52 – May 29, 2017, 06:52:47 pm Nice clean looking engine Sven, and panels look like they were never removed !!Hope your first drive goes well.Just looked at Rockauto and they have it for $12 (green stripe) but 5 day delay. Jegs has it in stock @$ 21JohnH Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #53 – May 29, 2017, 08:55:40 pm Just checked "siliconehose.com" and they have all the hump hoses you could want and they are in calif. Quote Selected
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #54 – May 29, 2017, 09:01:26 pm Quote from: John44 – May 29, 2017, 08:55:40 pmJust checked "siliconehose.com" and they have all the hump hoses you could want and they are in calif.I'm not really familiar with silicone hose and I trust Gates. It was also OEM. Quote Selected
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #55 – May 29, 2017, 09:27:54 pm Quote from: Sven and Kristi – May 29, 2017, 09:01:26 pmI'm not really familiar with silicone hose and I trust Gates. It was also OEM.FYI, "humphose" vibraflex comes in other sizes, if needed: http://ww2.gates.com/common/downloads/files/australia/brochure/GS%20Vibraflex%20Hose%20Flyer%20(AUS%20&%20NZ)%20June%202013.pdfI think the humphose is going to be cheaper than silicon connectors. Quote Selected
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #56 – May 29, 2017, 09:31:58 pm Great job Sven, now lets go somewhere😀 Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #57 – May 29, 2017, 09:35:15 pm The Gates is probably cheaper but I was pointing out that they are not that hard to find,the humphose comes in silicone also.Plus the so called oem had the slit on the inside. Quote Selected
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #58 – May 29, 2017, 10:15:33 pm Quote from: John44 – May 29, 2017, 09:35:15 pmThe Gates is probably cheaper but I was pointing out that they are not that hard to find,the humphose comes in silicone also.Plus the so called oem had the slit on the inside.The "so called OEM" hose was also 17 years old. If you search "hump hose", you will find a bunch of silicon. My point is that it might be a good idea to carry a spare. Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #59 – May 29, 2017, 10:51:31 pm I carry 2 of them as they are used in 3 places. Along with both belts and fuel filters. Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #60 – October 12, 2017, 05:06:43 pm I just had my first breakdown since moving back into the coach a year ago and putting around 10-12k mis on it, including up and down numerous mountain passes, etc. I am headed to TX for the Winter, in between RV Fog Dr to get new windows installed (they're just doing the install) and MCD to get new shades. I had spent the night in a Walmart lot in Hope, AR and was planning to work the day from there and make the run to MCD after work - but fate had other plans. When I started the engine to move to another more remote spot, the "Check engine" light came on, then the "Stop engine" light. I got out and saw quite a bit of what looked like coolant on the ground, and confirmed this by the looks of the bottom of the radiator and the color of the fluid on my white rag - bright red.Fortunately there was a shop within a mile and they dispatched a mobile mechanic. He confirmed my belief that it would have to go to the shop, and we topped off the coolant with water (maybe 8 gallons - enough to satisfy the sensor) for the 1 mile drive. As far as I can tell the thermostat never opened on the way over. I was amazed at all the cooling units there were in one spot, all ganged together - and so inaccessible too! AC evaporator, transmission cooler, charged air cooler, engine radiator... I decided at that point to spend some time this Winter fabricating a piano hinge setup so the skirt panel could be raised without having to remove the seam trim and body screws. I can't even imagine what the result would have been if I had painted the rig already. It's going for full body paint in April, so I have a deadline for the louvered panel modification.As others have mentioned (just confirming here) the '99 U320 the radiator part number is B2358RMPC, manufactured by Atlas Radiator in Corpus Christi. They charged $2,200 + $120 shipping (2 day motor freight to Hope, AR). Foretravel was going to charge about twice as much. I want to thank in the extreme a newbie Forum member, Carl Hansen, for letting me take the radiator that was almost ready for him, which puts him about another week out to receive one, which is being fabricated now. By all indications (Silverleaf?) the CAC is ok. I could replace it at the same time for $1,600 but I'd have to wait a while to get it. My feeling is that when the CAC, transmission cooler and AC condenser require work or replacement (after 19 years I'm thinking *replacement* since I'm full-timing and hoping this will last for 20 more years!) at least the first phase - removing the body panel - will not be necessary, and the paint job won't be sacrificed in the process.I knew when I bought a 19 year old coach that there would be days like this. I was hoping it would come later, but all things considered I really can't complain! I'm just happy to have a coach - despite a few "what were they thinking" moments - that is well worth the renovations it has had and has yet to receive. Quote Selected 10 Likes
Re: Replacing the radiator (update) Reply #61 – October 12, 2017, 05:13:02 pm Forgot the most important "secret sauce":To identify the radiator (besides looking for a tag or stamp once you get it removed - which is a LOT of labor) you can call Foretravel with your BUILD NUMBER and they will gladly tell you the Atlas part number. Then you can call Atlas and order one. Foretravel *might* have one in stock. Atlas almost certainly will not. From what I can tell, I just happened to be VERY lucky. Quote Selected 4 Likes
Topic: Replacing the radiator (update)