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Topic: Starter Wiring Advice (Read 1429 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Starter Wiring Advice

Reply #25
Mark D,
I just went through the same issue on my coach. New batteries and struggling to start.  The ground wire and the positive wire on the starter were loose.  The positive wire would arc big time.  I did not notice it until I had my wife crank the coach will I was under it. I removed both connections, cleaned and reinstalled them both.  It spins like a top and with no boost.
John M
John & Carm Morales

"We travel not to go anywhere, but to just go.  We travel for travel's sake.  Our great desire is to move."

Re: Starter Wiring Advice

Reply #26
We 'fought' engine start hesitation for over a year, although engine always started. Rebuilt starter, changed components, batteries, solenoids, cables, but nothing fixed the engine start issue.  Only after installing a new Delco 41MT starter, part number 10478818 did all troubles instantly go away. In the 6-years with the new starter, engine always starts on first crank with only engine batteries.

We never let our original starter out of our hand. We did rebuild it, and put it back in. The new starter was not a rebuild and was identical to original.

Re: Starter Wiring Advice

Reply #27
Mark D,
I just went through the same issue on my coach. New batteries and struggling to start.  The ground wire and the positive wire on the starter were loose.  The positive wire would arc big time.  I did not notice it until I had my wife crank the coach will I was under it. I removed both connections, cleaned and reinstalled them both.  It spins like a top and with no boost.
John M

I believe this is the problem I had except the issue was inside the solenoid.  I noticed the plastic cover on the solenoid has a very fresh looking break in the plastic (on the old starter).  What prompted this all is that I was late to Sebring this year due to being unable to get the coach started.  I decided to start tracking things down without boost on.  I was at the back panel attempting to crank it to get the cables warm - only about 5-7 seconds I'd say and BOOM.  Huge arc and puff of smoke.  Still cranked about the same after that but I decided to bite the bullet and get fresh components.

All the connectors were very tight.  I sprayed QD electrical cleaner on them before reassembly but they are still not shiny or clean or anything.

What really made me decide to do it though was that I saw evidence of heat on both the positive and ground cables.  The whole thing was just straight up drawing far too much current.  Internal shorts or something.

Re: Starter Wiring Advice

Reply #28
Those bolts are a grade 8, 1/2x13 according, to the chart they torque at 106 ft. lbs.

Seems I may have underestimated it a tad.  I'll bring it up to 130Nm or so and hopefully it'll stay there.  It still had a ton of thread locking residue on it.

Re: Starter Wiring Advice

Reply #29
When it comes to breaking bolts loose, I bought a Earthquake cordless, for less than 300 bucks, this thing will take off lugs on the coach with ease. Amazing time saver. I do not use it for tightening anything up, it is scary strong, but works great. Just a thought when one is on the road, handy and cheap tool.
'The strength of the effort is the measure of the result'
1995 U320SE
40'
#4740
#17648

Re: Starter Wiring Advice

Reply #30
When it comes to breaking bolts loose, I bought a Earthquake cordless, for less than 300 bucks, this thing will take off lugs on the coach with ease. Amazing time saver. I do not use it for tightening anything up, it is scary strong, but works great. Just a thought when one is on the road, handy and cheap tool.

Yeah I have a Milwaukee M18 fuel which is pretty much equivalent.  Zips off lugs like they aren't even there.  Wasn't TOUCHING these.  These were tough to get loose at the end of a BIG breaker bar.  They are 12 point heads for a reason!  This was border line not able to be loosened by 1/2" drive equipment at all.

EDIT: Actually it sounds like you have the equivalent of the next size up which is bigger than the Milwaukee I have.  Either way, the top bolt can't fit an impact on except at the end of a long extension AND you'd have to pull the fuel filter off the engine on mine.