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Topic: Water Leak (Read 5295 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Water Leak

Reply #40
Roland,
I moved our tank from the wet bay to inside the coach under the bathroom sink.  Opens up the water pump/water heater bay area - much easier to work on leaks and other stuff.
Water Pump Accumulator Tank
Great idea! The tank gets in the way and I could probably store filters in there. You have to lie on your back to do any work behind it.

Pierce

Re: Water Leak

Reply #41
#@$& water. Installed the new expansion tank, got the water hooked up and turned on and I still have a leak. This tank is pressurized at 40#, couldn't pressurized the old one. Water pump compartment is dry and all fittings are dry. Water and electrical hookup compartment driver's side wet but all fittings are dry. Water dripping from the bulkhead. I had everything pressurized with water without the expansion tank and no leak. All my fittings are dry. Back of water heater dry. All water fittings on the driver's side are dry. Water tank is 3/4 full. Almost seems like the tank itself is leaking from the bottom. Not sure how to test for that. That tank does not look like it's easy to replace.

Time to watch some football.

Roland

Re: Water Leak

Reply #42
If it is the tank, should leak the same amount with pump on or off, shore water on or off (the latter, assuming the check valve in the pump is not leaking and the fill valve is closed and not leaking-- if either not functioning it would fill/overfill the tank).

Re: Water Leak

Reply #43
Thank you Brett you found my leak. After reading your post I Went out and checked the audit monitor. Audit monitor showed the fresh water tank full but I only filled it to the 3/4 mark. So the water is leaking by the tank fill valve under the vanity or the pump. When I was testing the system under pressure during my troubleshooting I didn't give it enough time to fill the top of the tank before I buttoned stuff up. Not sure why it's leaking inside and not through the overflow hose but I'll take care of that. I have a spare pump and with the shutoffs I have it's easy to replace so I'll try that first then go to the valve.

Roland

Re: Water Leak

Reply #44
It's never easy.

I drained the system and changed out the water pump because it was the easiest to switch, read on and you will understand, I had a spare pump and it seemed to me that the pump diaphragm was the more likely culprit. Filled the fresh water tank to the the 1/4 mark then closed for valve under the vanity sink. Left the system pressurized and a few hours later I checked the water level and don't you know the level was at the half full mark. So now I have too change out the water fill valve under the vanity.

As an aside during this process the kitchen sink drain decided to start leaking. It was the original drain. I had to use a dremel tool to get the drain off. Was not that difficult too replace but enough already.

To access the plumbing under the vanity I have to remove the bottom drawer. BUT the toilet is in the way. So I have too remove the toilet to remove the bottom drawer. Several years ago I bought a replacement flap for our Microphore toilet, never installed it cause I didn't want to remove the toilet. Guess I'll install it now.

It's never easy.

Roland

Re: Water Leak

Reply #45
Looks like you are near the end of the problem. Hate it when one thing leads to another. Hope all goes as planned now.

Re: Water Leak

Reply #46
Finally got the fill valve removed and yep it's was sleeping water. BUT that is not my problem. Oh and I pressure checked the water pump diaphragm and that's OK. Through all of this I've wondered how an overfull fresh water tank can leak in the basement. It didn't make sense. And we never leave the pump on and we are never hooked to water. The leak started when I hooked up to water cooled the tank to 3/5 and left the system pressurized. A leaking diaphragm or a bad fill valve would cause the tank to overflow but not in my basements. Not unless the overflow hose is plugged and it's not. My leak is in the fresh water tank itself as far as I can tell. The water is coming from the compartment where the fresh water tank is located (looks like it's coming from under the tank) going across to the wet bay and out.

As I said when I began this saga water is my nemesis.

Anyone ever exchange a fresh water tank in a U280? Is it a big deal or am I putting the coach in a salvage yard? Sure looked like more then I want to tackle. Well wouldn't do that just yet we'll just keep our little motel room for family visitors. But eventually that's where it'll end up. Works fine hooked up to water as long as the tank is empty.

Roland

Re: Water Leak

Reply #47
A leaking diaphragm or a bad fill valve would cause the tank to overflow but not in my basements. Not unless the overflow hose is plugged and it's not. My leak is in the fresh water tank itself as far as I can tell. The water is coming from the compartment where the fresh water tank is located (looks like it's coming from under the tank) going across to the wet bay and out.

As I said when I began this saga water is my nemesis.

Anyone ever exchange a fresh water tank in a U280? Is it a big deal or am I putting the coach in a salvage yard? Sure looked like more then I want to tackle. Well wouldn't do that just yet we'll just keep our little motel room for family visitors. But eventually that's where it'll end up. Works fine hooked up to water as long as the tank is empty.

Roland
[/quote

...the corrugated white and green overflow hose connection to the tank is not a very sufficient seal. If it is anything like mine it is very difficult to see if at all, it's behind the hot water tank.

Re: Water Leak

Reply #48



...the corrugated white and green overflow hose connection to the tank is not a very sufficient seal. If it is anything like mine it is very difficult to see if at all, it's behind the hot water tank.

I am seeing a leak with the tank at 1/4 full and the water is on the driver's side of the coach. So the overflow hose doesn't come into play.

I'm thinking of cutting the old tank out and installing a smaller fresh water tank. We'll only be using the coach for short trips so a hundred gallon tank isn't necessary.

Roland

Re: Water Leak

Reply #49
Maybe using flexseal could be appropriate? At least until you can get a handle on cost and replacing.

Re: Water Leak

Reply #50
I am seeing a leak with the tank at 1/4 full and the water is on the driver's side of the coach. So the overflow hose doesn't come into play.

I'm thinking of cutting the old tank out and installing a smaller fresh water tank. We'll only be using the coach for short trips so a hundred gallon tank isn't necessary.

Roland

I wouldn't trash the old tank it will come out in one piece. You remember my tank leaking at Quartzsite?  The 1/2" male fill inlet was cracked across the threads. I pulled it out with no problems and for $20 I had a new fitting spun on in Yuma. I'm sure you can have the tank repaired.

Re: Water Leak

Reply #51
I had to repair the one in the '81 FT easier to get out than yours but like Doug said it can be repaired. I had one made for my old Vogue when it failed.

Re: Water Leak

Reply #52
Roland,

Whatever you do, do NOT let water continue to sit in the wet bay--that is death for the rear bulkhead.

Re: Water Leak

Reply #53
Roland I had the same problem. Chased it for a year. I finally pulled the freshwater tank and found the lowermost tank fitting was a "spun in" style OEM and THAT was where it was leaking. Repaired the connection and no more leak into the basement. Sad to say, next step was rebuilding the basement but, it's done. No telling how many years that slow leak had been weeping.

Re: Water Leak

Reply #54
I hope this is my final entry on this thread. I removed everything on the hot water heater side, left the hot water heater alone. Replumbed with sharkbite fittings and gasoila on the threaded fittings into the water tank. I filled the tank to the halfway mark and let everything set for a couple hours. Everything is dry. It wasn't the spunon tank fittings that were leaking but the adapters that were threaded into the tank fittings. Foretravel used Teflon tape on those fittings, well someone did, in any case Teflon tape is NOT a sealer and that's what was leaking. Going too let it set overnight and if it is still dry in the AM I will call it fixed.

A hundred and fifty dollars in parts for a $.50 fix. I believe gasoila on the original fittings would have taken care of the leak. However the fill valve under the cabinet in the bathroom was leaking. I installed two Sharkbite shutoff valve for the outside "shower" faucet, (was always nervous with the handles on those faucets) replaced a bad expansion tank and installed new Sharkbite shutoff valves and a new water pump (had a spare and figured it was a good time to replace the ten year old pump).

Now I have to replace the flapper in the Microphor toilet and re-install the toilet Oh the Joy of it all.

Roland

Re: Water Leak

Reply #55
Everything was just fine until I filled the water tank to get maximum head pressure on my fittings. You guessed it I had a leak. I believe however that I overtightened the inlet fitting and broke it. Wasn't leaking there before is now. Called a place in Phoenix that does spin welding but they wanted most of my retirement income to do the job. And I had to bring the tank to Phoenix leave it and go back so I said scr#$ this I'm going to fix it myself.

The first picture shows the pressure/leak test on the assembly I fabricated. The assembly is a piece of plastic from cutting board I purchased at Walmart. The through fittings are hose fittings that I purchased from Amazon . The sharkbite fittings are two that I already had in my spare parts.

The second picture is my executed solution.

The third picture is the system I used to bond my assembly to the water tank.

I will fill the tank and if I have a leak from the assembly I will weld the perimeter of the assembly. I may weld it if it doesn't leak haven't decided yet.

I will post my results when I completed the leak test.

Roland

Re: Water Leak

Reply #56
Roland where did you get the sealers etc
JohnH

Re: Water Leak

Reply #57
Roland where did you get the sealers etc
JohnH
Roland where did you get the sealers etc
JohnH
I bought the bonding system from Amazon after a bunch of research. It's a three step process. Tech - Bond is the manufacterer

1 spray both pieces with the Poly Prep and let dry....dries quickly
2 spray ONE surface with Activator/Accelerator and let dry. And apply heat with a hair dryer.
3 Apply the SI Blue to the other surface.

Then you put the two surfaces together and hold them for them for fifteen second and that's it.

According too their literature the adhesion is at a molecular level. I've seen demonstrations on YouTube where they adhered a silicone rubber piece to polypropelyne. I do know that my piece of cutting board is adhering well at this point. Going too fill the tank tomorrow and see how it goes.

Roland

Re: Water Leak

Reply #58
Final entry on this issue. I still had small leaks after soldering the seam of the cutting board to the water tank. Tried many times to resolder the areas that were leaking with no results. I only succeeded in making a mess of already messy attempts at soldering the seams. Kent Speers recommended applying 3M 5200 Marine adhesive sealant to the problem areas. I covered the entire area with the 3M sealant, let it cure for ten days. Today I put a hundred gallons of water in the tank and no leaks. Photo shows the application of the sealant as well as my testing method and results. Thank you Kent.
Roland

Re: Water Leak

Reply #59

Sounds like a good product to carry a little 3 oz of.  If it is used to seal thru hulls on a boat, it sounds like an excellent sealer, as long as it is not something you might have to remove easily later.

3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, PN05203, White, 3 oz Tube Amazon.com: 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, PN05203, White, 3 oz Tube:...

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