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Topic: Dead chassis batteries (Read 1605 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #21 –
The wire that had fallen off the selenoid was for the boost assist selenoid. So my house batteries never got the memo when I turned the boost rocker to on.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #22 –
Boost or no boost, if something is not draining your batteries, then IMHO your 3 year old red tops are not holding a charge and are indeed toast.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #23 –
I'm less than impressed with the optima red tops installed 3 years ago.  Think I'll go with a plain old single lead acid 8d .  I've had em last for years in boat service.  Might consider it....

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #24 –
When Foretravel relocated the engine batteries from a vented side compartment that lessened the temp swings to the open to air engine compartment which will have much more temp swings required a change to optima red tops for every unicoach built.

Properly charged/stored without running them down they last a dozen years.

Without a failure proof engine battery charging/maintenance system installed any engine start battery will fail.

No high current battery likes being discharged.  Kills the life.

All the new coaches use a automatic connecting relay to combine the battery banks and probably offer at least a nominal solar panel setup to keep the batteries from self discharging.

Red tops are made for tough locations,  Frugal Foretravel would normally not install expensive anything if there was a way around it.

Red tops and house gels.  Every unicoach made as far as I know.  And they are notoriously frugal. 

The m11 requires 2200 CCA to start. 

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #25 –
I just wonder if it was as some noted. A bit of a bum connection.
I cleaned all six connectors on the batteries. Later the tech cleaned the connection that joins the big cables that runs to the smaller three post cables.

All I know is that after all connections were cleaned. Boost selenoid wire reconnected. And two hours of their service truck running while tethered to the coach via jumper cables. The coach roared to life quicker than it ever has.

The total bill was $25. So no complaints about that.

Finally arrived at Silver Falls where it is on 30amps. Saturday when we head out will be the big test.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #26 –
Good news, Jerry.  Do you have a small smart charger hooked up to the start batteries so they get charged while plugged in?  They normally do not get charged unless youdo.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #27 –
Oh doo doo. I thought it was done along with the house batteries by the xantrax system. Guess when we go into Silverton tomorrow I'll stop by an auto parts store. Any particular type or brand needed or recommend?

So now that leads me to think it just might have been corrosion mucking up the charging. This coach has been sitting quite a lot while we waited for the boss to retire. I can't recall that it has ever failed to start because of a dead battery since installing the red tops three years ago.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #28 –
You could cross connect the batteries at the isolator with a jumper cable  as far as I know.  Just remove it prior to driving.  My auto connect is installed where the isolator was,  then the house side will charge the engine batteries.  The auto connect auto disconnects when either battery is not charged and is in discharge use.

Same idea just automatic

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #29 –
Quote from: bigdog –
Oh doo doo. I thought it was done along with the house batteries by the xantrax system. Guess when we go into Silverton tomorrow I'll stop by an auto parts store. Any particular type or brand needed or recommend?
Just make sure the charger has a setting for AGM batteries - most of them do these days.  Some ideas:

The Best AGM Battery Chargers To Buy with In-Depth Reviews - 2018

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #30 –
As I mentioned before connections are most often the problem. In my coach the location of my batteries, isolator, solenoids, etc, are in places that get all kinds of road dirt and moisture. That's why this always the first place I look.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #31 –
Thanks everyone for all the info/guidance. Until I get out to pickup the appropriate charger. I'll just disconnect the neg side.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #32 –
Jerry you needed a walk through.  Much harder to learn on the fly.

Would not disconnect the engine.  Just jump over the isolator.  Then the charger charges both sides. 

Definitely a combiner would help

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #33 –
Just leave the boost switch on. It won't hurt a thing.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #35 –
Quote from: Dakota Slim –
Unless, of course, one of the batteries is bad or goes bad.
Excellent point. If the batteries are fully charged, leave the boost switch off. Disconnect the ground for overnight and IF in the morning they are dead or close to it, you've found the culprit.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #36 –
As long as you have the ground lead disconnected, use an Ammeter to see just how Buchanan parasitic drain there is.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #37 –
Boost takes 3 amps continuously.

Combiner is magnetic and zero draw. 

As I said every new coach has a combiner

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #38 –
I found a charger that does AGM's at a local Napa in Silverton. It shows the set as 95% charged with the neg cable removed after sitting over night. I have the charger set at 2Amps. It has an AGM over charge prevention program.

Re: Dead chassis batteries

Reply #39 –
Let's see some pics of your trip!  ^.^d