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Topic: Brake job (Read 1817 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Brake job

Reply #25 –
I always thought we'd have disk brakes: looks like what we have are old time drum & shoe!
1993 U-240 "La Villa Grande"..CAT 3116 w/ Pacbrake PRXB...Allison 3060 6-speed..
Previous: 1983 Airstream 310 turbo diesel, 1979 Airstream 280 turbo diesel
                                      Build # 4297
                                      PNW natives
                      Home base:  'Cactus Hug' (Ajo, Arizona)
                        DW Judy & Chet the wonder dog
                        Full-Timers 'Sailing the asphalt sea'

Re: Brake job

Reply #26 –
Mike you might want to start squirreling some money away for rear pads, and save a couple of hundred bucks and have it done when they put on your new tires. There are some ports on the backing plate where you can see how thick the pads are pita on the rear, may need flashlight and a mirror. Rear pads are where most of the wear occurs.
Old Phart Phred, EIEIO
89 GV ored 36' #3405 300 hp cat 3208 ATAAC side radiator, mountain tamer exhaust brake

Re: Brake job

Reply #27 –
Quote from: Old phart phred –
Mike you might want to start squirreling some money away for rear pads
Hmm, I called my small house a 'pad' in the sixties, but I've always called drum brakes 'shoes'. Are we on the same track or:
1993 U-240 "La Villa Grande"..CAT 3116 w/ Pacbrake PRXB...Allison 3060 6-speed..
Previous: 1983 Airstream 310 turbo diesel, 1979 Airstream 280 turbo diesel
                                      Build # 4297
                                      PNW natives
                      Home base:  'Cactus Hug' (Ajo, Arizona)
                        DW Judy & Chet the wonder dog
                        Full-Timers 'Sailing the asphalt sea'

Re: Brake job

Reply #28 –
Yes, shoes, brain phart soo used to disks
Old Phart Phred, EIEIO
89 GV ored 36' #3405 300 hp cat 3208 ATAAC side radiator, mountain tamer exhaust brake

Re: Brake job

Reply #29 –
Quote from: Old phart phred –
Yes, shoes, brain phart soo used to disks
Comprende.  I'm still going through my files and I'm sure Brett is, too. Hard to fathom, in 170,000 miles, this coach has had NO brake work???
1993 U-240 "La Villa Grande"..CAT 3116 w/ Pacbrake PRXB...Allison 3060 6-speed..
Previous: 1983 Airstream 310 turbo diesel, 1979 Airstream 280 turbo diesel
                                      Build # 4297
                                      PNW natives
                      Home base:  'Cactus Hug' (Ajo, Arizona)
                        DW Judy & Chet the wonder dog
                        Full-Timers 'Sailing the asphalt sea'

Re: Brake job

Reply #30 –
No brake work (in terms of shoes/pads) on any vehicle I have ever owned.

One reason for the PRXB exhaust brake!

Unless subsequent owner overheated them, probably still in very fine condition.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Brake job

Reply #31 –
Our retarder is abrupt at low speeds.  Like the service brakes better
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Brake job

Reply #32 –
Quote
Unless subsequent owner overheated them, probably still in very fine condition.

This is an interesting thread. Two of the three disk brake models that I've had showed very little pad wear. Those two had the Allison retarder. Our 95 had to have major brake work - rotors and pads. That coach was a 40 footer with an M11 and a Jake brake. When I got it, the Jake was a one speed, all six cylinders to 4th gear. It was not a good setup and was not enjoyable driving in the mountains. I had it changed to 5th gear and two speeds which made it really nice (almost as nice as a transmission retarder). I think the single speed 4th gear setup caused the previous owner to lay on those brakes much more than you would prefer and ended up really heating them up many times.
jor
93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320

Re: Brake job

Reply #33 –
Quote from: jor –
I think the single speed 4th gear setup caused the previous owner to lay on those brakes much more than you would prefer and ended up really heating them up many times.
jor

VERY likely!

Different driving styles call for different engine/exhaust brake programming.  Rarely have I found that factory settings meet my spes.

Perhaps they are meant for "Americans"-- we only drive automatics and only drive with the transmission in "D".

Sorry, can't do that.  Listening to the machine says a knowledgeable driver is better than a pre-set program. Pre-set programming can not know that you are about to to hit a 7% grade and you need to downshift early to prevent "running right through 5th gear to 4th".  Downshifting manually to 5th and putting the hammer down and 5th is a good choice.

Same for downshifting program for exhaust/engine brake.  Take the down grade on I40 into Albuquerque.  5th gear exhaust brake and you are good for the full 14 mile run.  4th gear and you are "over-braking"/accelerating all the way down.  But 5th gear pre-select says you have to be willing to use the down arrow when you need to go slower.

The good news (VERY good news) is that you  can have the Allison reprogrammed to any pre-select gear.  Takes about 15 minutes at any Allison dealer.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Brake job

Reply #34 –
Quote from: mike leary –
I always thought we'd have disk brakes: looks like what we have are old time drum & shoe!

Old time?  It's certainly how I feel some mornings.
Jerry & Nona and Kimeru the cat that thinks she's a dog
1998 36' WTFE U320  #5314 Motorcade #17711
USAF 1975-1995
2019 Subaru Crosstrek 'toad'
2003 Subaru Legacy touring car
jerry Fincher | Flickr

Re: Brake job

Reply #35 –
I'm in the process of putting brake pads on drivers
And I could use a little guidance!!
Mainly a couple of questions
1 can I heat the torque plate arm
  Picture with finger pointing
2 can I buy a boot for the slack adjuster rod
Thanks
Chris
1999 U 320 DGFE
Build Number 5523
Chris & Elka Lang
In the field, Lonoke AR

Re: Brake job

Reply #36 –
As a added note I used a air hammer to get top one loose but bottom don't want to move
I have been soaking it in PB blaster
Chris
1999 U 320 DGFE
Build Number 5523
Chris & Elka Lang
In the field, Lonoke AR

Re: Brake job

Reply #37 –
Quote from: Chris m lang –
1 can I heat the torque plate arm

2 can I buy a boot for the slack adjuster rod

Chris,
1. I have never had to and would avoid it at all cost. If you warp, crack, distort that piece in any way the guide pin will be out of alignment. This will cause the guide pins to bind.  Have you taken a 4# hammer and massaged the end of that nut that is backed off to loosen up the slide pin retainer?  That slide pin retainer needs to be depressed to get the slide pin out and by the looks of it the retainer is not in the down possession to be able to release the guide pin.

2. Have never looked for one as once they have road grime in the adjuster we just replace the adjuster.

 Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Brake job

Reply #38 –
Mike, Thanks I was reluctant to do any heating, been using a air hammer while holding retainer pin in to no avail.  Will Try chucks approach and use a bolt with deep wall socket to pull pin.  I soaked it down with penetrating oil and will let set overnight.
Chris
1999 U 320 DGFE
Build Number 5523
Chris & Elka Lang
In the field, Lonoke AR

Re: Brake job

Reply #39 –
Quote from: Chris m lang –
Will Try chucks approach and use a bolt with deep wall socket to pull pin. 

Chuck,
That has been the best way for me also if the guide pin is stuck.  Hope you don't have a bur pulled up on the slide pin from the slide retaining pin nut being overtightened.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Brake job

Reply #40 –

When David at NMS did mine he had a puller like this: 
Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 27085 Slide Hammer Bearing Puller Set: Home Improvement
but had a threaded end that he screwed into the threads of the caliper slide pins.  They came out pretty easy with that.  Not sure if he made the tool or if it's available to buy.

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Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
no longer 1999 36' U320 build #5522
2013 Rzr 570 & 2018 Ranger XP1000
2006 Lexus GX470
2011 Tahoe LT 4x4
Previous 1998 45' 2 slide Newell, 1993 39' Newell

Re: Brake job

Reply #41 –
This is what got mine out.

helper springs
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Brake job

Reply #42 –
Chris,

Had another thought on this that may help you out.  Take a pair of pliers and carefully twist the slide pin retainer. You don't want to bugger the threads up or you will have to replace it for sure. The reason being is the flat that is on the retainer pin may be slightly off causing the slide pin to be in a bind. I have had this happen in the past but not often as there isn't much wiggle/twist room for the pin.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."