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Odor Problem

I have read some posts regarding this problem and none really applied to my problem. I have an odor problem inside the coach but only when I am parked with strong winds coming from the rear of the coach. I think this problem is an inherent fault of the particular roof vents that are on this coach. I am not sure if this stock photo is the exact vent I have but it's close enough for display purposes.
Has anyone else experienced this problem with this type of vent, and, if so, how did you solve the problem?
Any ideas/comments are welcome. 
1993 U225 Build #: 4285
500 Watts Solar
Honda CRV AWD
Former 1981 Foretravel Travco
Retired, Full Time Off Grid Snowbird

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #1
Is your toilet holding water? If not could be a source of the smell. Also could be an air emittance valve in the black water line or gray line. Not sure where they are on your coach. They are 1 1/4 and screwed in to a tee. They allow air to flo in to prevent a vacuum.
Bruce, Linda, and Macy
Zoey RIP 1/20/19
1999 U295 40' build #5400
2017 silver Jeep Wrangler, 1260 watts of solar on top
Moving around the country

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #2
Several other styles of tank roof vents available. We have the same style as yours and occasionally get a foul oder. See other types at: rv roof tank vent | eBay

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)


Re: Odor Problem

Reply #4

I replaced the original vent (like the one in the first post) with a Cyclone vent 3 years ago.  It is still working great - rotates freely in even the lightest breeze.  Seems to serve it's purpose - never have any funky smells inside the coach.

Amazon.com: Camco 40595 White Cyclone Sewer Plumbing Vent: Automotive

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #5
Also be mindful if your toilet has the over flow holes in the bowl. They have a P-trap. If the water evaporates. Then there is a direct line to smell hell.

I had a case of stink coach. Went to home depot and bought new air admittance valves and also installed the Camco weather vane rotating vents. I added some fine mesh to the Camco vents with clear sealant to keep bugs out. That took care of the nasal assault.
Jerry & Nona and Kimeru the cat that thinks she's a dog
1998 36' WTFE U320  #5314 Motorcade #17711
USAF 1975-1995
2019 Subaru Crosstrek 'toad'
2003 Subaru Legacy touring car
jerry Fincher | Flickr

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #6
If you keep the P-traps full of water, replace the air admittance valves, have a effective vent pipe cap, and STILL have occasions where you are getting bad smells, then there is one final step you can take: a Super Stanker!  I have no personal experience with this product, but it certainly seems like it would be effective.  Of course, it would be another small drain on your batteries when dry camping, but that might be preferable to getting "gassed".  Just another option to consider.

SUPER STANKER Sewer Tank/Vent Pipe Fan - Overview Page
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #7
Also be mindful if your toilet has the over flow holes in the bowl. They have a P-trap. If the water evaporates. Then there is a direct line to smell hell.
I don't know much about RV toilets but I may have overflow holes and evaporated water in the p trap -- and the problem is exacerbated by wind getting in through the roof vent.  My toilet is a Thetford Galaxy Starlight.
If I did have a problem with the p-trap, how would I correct it?
1993 U225 Build #: 4285
500 Watts Solar
Honda CRV AWD
Former 1981 Foretravel Travco
Retired, Full Time Off Grid Snowbird

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #8
Slim,

Check around the top of the toilet bowl, just below the rim, and see if there are any holes.  If not, you probably do not have the overflow system, and in that case would not have the P-trap.  Does your toilet sit directly above the black tank?  That is the way ours is placed, so when we flush the contents drop straight down into the black tank.  We call it the "Drop & Plop".  With that kind of setup, the only seal you have to worry about is the one on the flushing valve.  If it holds water in the bowl between uses, then it is good.

https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/1446/Installation-Owners-Manual.pdf
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #9
Slim,

Check around the top of the toilet bowl, just below the rim, and see if there are any holes.  If not, you probably do not have the overflow system, and in that case would not have the P-trap.  Does your toilet sit directly above the black tank?  That is the way ours is placed, so when we flush the contents drop straight down into the black tank.  We call it the "Drop & Plop".  With that kind of setup, the only seal you have to worry about is the one on the flushing valve.  If it holds water in the bowl between uses, then it is good.

https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/1446/Installation-Owners-Manual.pdf
Chuck, I see one rectangular hole below the rim, and anything flushed does NOT go straight down. On my old coach, the contents did drop straight down and I thought that the only seal I had to worry about with any toilet was the flushing valve which in my toilet's case works great.
1993 U225 Build #: 4285
500 Watts Solar
Honda CRV AWD
Former 1981 Foretravel Travco
Retired, Full Time Off Grid Snowbird

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #10

Sweeten up your black tank, using plenty of this Slim;
Amazon.com: Caravan "Full-timer's RV Holding Tank Treatment - Natural,...

I have the same vent as you and the only time we experienced what you described was when we stayed at a friend's farm.
He had some pigs behind us and when the wind changed after a couple of days we were outta there.

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Re: Odor Problem

Reply #11
Number one complaint when a service adviser with all coaches. Even new ones.

1st question. How clean is your black holding tank. Do you flush it out good? I mean do you flood it, and dump it several times before storing it?

Whenever I use our coach, which I have done with all my coaches, after dumping the tanks, I flood them and dump them twice.Then  I dd tank cleaner on 3rd flooding. I try to use hot water. I let it sit a few days to a week, then dump it again. Easy because I sat up a dump station in my shop.

Whenever I dump at dump stations on the road, I flood the tanks with a hose down the toilet, with my wife's help.

The secret is the crap and toilet paper that sticks on the side of the tanks inside. Just dumping , then using the tank flusher's  help, but don't wash it out. Once it gets wet again, even after a winter of sitting with no smell, it reactivates it, may even be worse.

This has always worked for me, no matter what vent cap I have.

Chris
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #12
Number one complaint when a service adviser with all coaches. Even new ones.

1st question. How clean is your black holding tank. Do you flush it out good? I mean do you flood it, and dump it several times before storing it?

Whenever I use our coach, which I have done with all my coaches, after dumping the tanks, I flood them and dump them twice.Then  I dd tank cleaner on 3rd flooding. I try to use hot water. I let it sit a few days to a week, then dump it again. Easy because I sat up a dump station in my shop.

Whenever I dump at dump stations on the road, I flood the tanks with a hose down the toilet, with my wife's help.

The secret is the crap and toilet paper that sticks on the side of the tanks inside. Just dumping , then using the tank flusher's  help, but don't wash it out. Once it gets wet again, even after a winter of sitting with no smell, it reactivates it, may even be worse.

This has always worked for me, no matter what vent cap I have.

Chris

Hi Chris. I am a full timer so my coach is never stored. It had been stored when I bought it, and at that time the bowl valve leaked a bit but it came back to life and has sealed perfectly for 3 years. As I said, the only time I really have a problem is when I am parked and there is a strong tailwind. Others have said they had this problem as well. I had never heard of a P-trap before it was mentioned here, and I was surprised to see that my toilet has at least one hole that is apparently associated with it. It could be that this hole -- along with the tail wind -- is causing the problem. Obviously I would love to have a fresh smelling coach no matter which way the wind blows. 
1993 U225 Build #: 4285
500 Watts Solar
Honda CRV AWD
Former 1981 Foretravel Travco
Retired, Full Time Off Grid Snowbird

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #13
It is nearly always the air admittance valves causing odors inside the coach. 1st step is to replace them all and see if the odor problem is gone.
Dan - Full timing since 2009
2003 U320 40' Tag 2 slide

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #14
 I am with Dan. The air admittance valves are usually the problem. It's a good idea to replace them all anyway. I would recommend that you buy Studor valves.  I have had two of the big box store type fail.  You probably have two or three valves.
jor
93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #15
Slim,

Check around the top of the toilet bowl, just below the rim, and see if there are any holes.  If not, you probably do not have the overflow system, and in that case would not have the P-trap.  Does your toilet sit directly above the black tank?  That is the way ours is placed, so when we flush the contents drop straight down into the black tank.  We call it the "Drop & Plop".  With that kind of setup, the only seal you have to worry about is the one on the flushing valve.  If it holds water in the bowl between uses, then it is good.

https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/1446/Installation-Owners-Manual.pdf
I am with Dan. The air admittance valves are usually the problem. It's a good idea to replace them all anyway. I would recommend that you buy Studor valves.  I have had two of the big box store type fail.  You probably have two or three valves.
jor
I thought I only had 2 valves -- under the bathroom sink -- and I replaced those. I did some further checking and just found a third valve under the kitchen sink. I replaced that and will see if it solves the problem before doing anything on the roof.
1993 U225 Build #: 4285
500 Watts Solar
Honda CRV AWD
Former 1981 Foretravel Travco
Retired, Full Time Off Grid Snowbird

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #16
I replaced the original vent (like the one in the first post) with a Cyclone vent 3 years ago.  It is still working great - rotates freely in even the lightest breeze.  Seems to serve it's purpose - never have any funky smells inside the coach.

Amazon.com: Camco 40595 White Cyclone Sewer Plumbing Vent: Automotive
I put these on my coach several years ago and they work, no odors inside.  White when installed, but after about a year the color changed to  a light tan.  Still seem to be okay otherwise
As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
Jerry Whiteaker former owner 96 U270  36' #4831 Austin,TX-Owner Mods LCD TV w/front cabinet rebuild - LCD TV bedroom - Dual Central AC, either can cool coach w 30 amp - Skylights at roof AC openings - Drop ceiling for ducting of AC - Shower skylight white gelcoat/wood/epoxy frame - Air Springs/Shocks replaced - 2014 CRV - 8K Home Solar - Chevy Volt

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #17
If you have a washer/dryer in your coach and it hasn't been used in a while, the p-trap can dry out and allow swampy odors into the coach.  How do I know????  Just run a partial load and drain to refill the p-trap.  Voila.
2001 4010 U320 build #5865 "Bluto-d-Bus" since 09/18
2006 Honda Element ESP Toad
Full timing since 2016 in Western MT
Copilot: Sitka
1975 GMC 260 Avion: sold

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #18
I put these on my coach several years ago and they work, no odors inside.  White when installed, but after about a year the color changed to  a light tan.  Still seem to be okay otherwise

I have used both and prefer this as it was patented by the same person as yours and he use to sell both and showed this ones increased ability.  It also is lower, and no moving parts.

Amazon.com: Siphon 389380 RV Plumbing Vent 360 Siphon - Black: Automotive
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97 U295 40, Build #5040, 6C8.3 325 HP
Oregon Continuous Traveler
Samsung Residential #RF20HFENBSR,
Xantrex SW2012, (3)AGM8D Hse, (2)AGM Grp24 Eng, Victron BMV-712, 1800w Solar 4 LG & 2 Sunpower
Extreme Full Body Pt w/hdlmps, new furn/floor, 4 down Lexus 2004 GX470 AWD curb weight 4,740 lbs
Prev: 1990 Barth, 10L 300 2 yrs; 91&92 Monaco Signature, 10 yrs, 10L C 300 &  6C8.3 300; 1997 ForeT 6C8.3 325 since May 2017.  Employed by Guaranty RV 14+ yrs.  Former VW New Car Dlr/Service Dlr, Sales Mgr, Rv Sales, and Service Adviser from 1968-2017
"Don't criticize what you can't understand" Bob Dylan

Re: Odor Problem

Reply #19
If you have a washer/dryer in your coach and it hasn't been used in a while, the p-trap can dry out and allow swampy odors into the coach.  How do I know????  Just run a partial load and drain to refill the p-trap.  Voila.

And there is at least one and maybe 2 air admittance valves behind the washer.
Dan - Full timing since 2009
2003 U320 40' Tag 2 slide