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Topic: Oil change... can I do it (Read 2436 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Oil change... can I do it

Reply #40 –
And, if the M aluminum pan threads are stripped, not major deal:

Engine Drain Plug Insert

Re: Oil change... can I do it

Reply #41 –
You can learn to do it Keith and do a far better job than some kid "diesel tech".. I run 10 diesel trucks and cringe at the thought of some "tech" fooling with something as important as oil. I wouldn't allow one under one of my trucks or coach.

Re: Oil change... can I do it

Reply #42 –
I also use the "Fumo" drain valve so that I have some control over the flow.  I use two 5 gallon containers (restaurants probably use them  for their veg. oil) that fire retardant used to come  in.  Because of the weight of 36-38 gallons, I would suggest two containers.  When I do the change, I put the containers side by side in a cement mixing tray (Home Depot) to catch spills and the valve allows me to shut off the flow when I go from one container to the next.  You can check to see if your area has a hazardous waste collection site or take it to  your nearest auto parts store, if they are set up for large volumes.

Re: Oil change... can I do it

Reply #43 –
Quote from: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart –
OK, buy a quick drain for your engine, a bunch of one gallon freezer bags, thin HF gloves, rags, a sharp punch and away you go. Naturally, you need the oil and filter as well as some dirty clothes.

Once you have everything in place and have done the safety stuff, pull the top off the oil filler and tape your vacuum cleaner hose to the filler. Turn on the vacuum cleaner (no, it won't ruin the vacuum cleaner) and then pull the oil pan drain plug. No oil will come out, it just will suck a little air in. Thread the quick drain into the pan taking your time as not to cross thread the drain as Cummins have aluminum pans and the thread is also aluminum. Once tight, remove the vacuum cleaner. Take the sharp punch and with at least a gallon container below, puncture the bottom of the filter. With the container in place below, remove the punch. Now, you will have saved yourself a huge mess as nothing should be spilled. If you loosen the filter, oil will pour down the sides and WILL make a mess even if you have a plastic bag around the filter. The big difference between changing your car oil and the diesel is the nasty black color and how hard it is to get off things once you spill. And I've had plenty of spills.

I'm reviving this thread to give Pierce some props. This is one of the more underrated tips & tricks I've stumbled across on the forum. It made switching to a no-spill oil drain kit super easy. Thanks  ^.^d

Re: Oil change... can I do it

Reply #44 –
Thanks Eliott!

Good to have a HD filter wrench, not the rubber strap wrench most the parts stores sell. The PO or a shop may have over tightened the filter and the strap may slip before the filter comes loose. The type that take a ratchet, breaker bar or adjustable wrench work the best for oil, fuel or a spin on air dryer element and take only a little effort. NAPA has one that gets good reviews for less than $8 or chose one from Amazon for $20+.https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769017?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Filtration&campaign_id=6478904302&adgroup_id=121544424384&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=Cj0KCQiA14WdBhD8ARIsANao07jZUWnk9P4Sa-ZSVlO18pQckKNF6W6CcMWMpuUBDOZh0C8vlJ2jomkaAuorEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&

Lube the rubber filter gasket and then tighten according to the instruction on the side of the spin-on filter. Don't go "that little extra" as it won't leak.

None of these are my original ideas but picked up from other sources and just put together. I have been covered with black diesel engine oil in the past and don't want others to suffer the same fate. ;D

Pierce.