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Topic: Pump Switch (Read 2956 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #20 –
I went to the coach today. Wasn't sure how to check the latch relay to see if it's getting 12v. Pressed the reset switches....they clicked but didn't stay "in"????
Still three dead switches. I am not sure which is to pump and which ti fill. Also not sure how to remove from the board. There seems to be two silver posts. Are they pressed onto the posts. Where should I get replacements.? The BEST place.??
Is it normal for the switches to work fine one day and then just " die"??

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #21 –
Quote from: GleamB –
I went to the coach today. Wasn't sure how to check the latch relay to see if it's getting 12v. Pressed the reset switches....they clicked but didn't stay "in"????
Still three dead switches. I am not sure which is to pump and which ti fill. Also not sure how to remove from the board. There seems to be two silver posts. Are they pressed onto the posts. Where should I get replacements.? The BEST place.??
Is it normal for the switches to work fine one day and then just " die"??
If the reset pops back out it is either bad or you have a short. Wish I could help you tell the difference.

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #22 –

If he is referring to the button on the relay it is not a reset button, it latches or unlatches the relay.

Glenn, the white wire labeled B29 powers both relays and connects to the A1 and 1 terminals.  The grounding switch circuits connect to terminal A2. Terminal 2 connects to white wire labeled C8.  On the other relay terminal 2 connects to white wire labeled C28. 

There is a button on the top of the relay (on your coach the top of the relay it oriented down) works just like pressing one of the switches.  Press it, the latch latches or releases.  If you have power at terminal 1 and the latch is latched you will have power at terminal 2.    If you short terminal A2 to ground the latch will latch or release.

The 15 amp circuit breaker for the relay power (White B29) is the bottom one on the right column on the left side of the panel behind the white cover.

Start there.  Do you have power here? Do you have power at the relays? Does the button on the relay make something happen?  Do you have power at terminal 2?  If you ground (momentarily) A2 what happens? 

It is very unlikely that the latching relay has failed.  It is even more unlikely that all switches failed at the same time.  The most likely thing is that somewhere the ground circuit is open.

FINDER - 20.21.9.012.0000 - RELAY, SPST-NO, 400VAC, 16A | eBay

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #23 –
thanks, again. I will give it another go in a few days. Always something new to learn.

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #24 –
Glenn,

The ground wire on the pump itself was causing an intermittent stoppage on ours. I moved the ground to the compartment light switch in the front where I could see it and the problem was solved. I just put a spice on it to extend it a few inches.

Put a test light on the hot wire to the pump and see if it comes on with the switches. Latching relay makes a little clicking noise when switched on/off.

This was in Bill's "hanger" in Texas. Thanks again.

Pierce

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #25 –
Indicator lamps on the switches and the pump are powered by same circuit from the latching relay. The ground wire to the pump doesn't have anything to do with the indicator lamps or the pump switches ability to close a ground path to trigger the relay to latch or release.  All of this began while doing the floor.  Verify the power side of the circuits.  Then trace the ground control side.

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #26 –
Correct but if the lights come on and the pump does not work, 12V at the pump and the ground are  good places to check. It only takes 30 seconds to see if you have juice at the pump or a bad ground. Our latching relay is a lot harder to get to.

Pierce

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #27 –
OP says no lights. Start at the source.

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #28 –
I did have a strange occurrence this last winter. We had a few freezing days in a row and I was going through the coach and decided to turn on the pump make sure the water heater was full before I lighted it. No light on either pump switch. Tried repeatedly but no joy. Left it for other projects but when I returned a week later, pump worked fine and has ever since.

Pierce

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #29 –
I went to the coach today to start her up and run the Aqua Hot. Got underneath with a voltmeter and tested the B29 cb....I have power there. I am not certain how to test the latch switch. I put positive at A1 and negative at A2...nothing. Same A to 2. The fill switch also doesn't light up or work.
Is it even possible both latch switches went bad at the same time?
If it is the switch, they are attached to the board with two silver pegs. I have NO IDEA of how to take them iff the board. We need the pump to work. What is my next step??

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #30 –
I must ask again.....how do I remove the latch switches from the board? I can" jump " the latch switch a lot easier if I can remove it from the board. Do they just PRY out, or is there a trick to it ?

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #31 –
Quote
how do I remove the latch switches from the board?

I believe they are mounted with Velcro or similar, but it has been several years since I replaced mine. The back side of the Finder is flat like the visible side, no place for screws

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #32 –
Quote from: GleamB –
I put positive at A1 and negative at A2...nothing. Same A to 2.
The fill switch also doesn't light up or work.
Is it even possible both latch switches went bad at the same time?

Glenn,
1. If you measured between A1 & A2 you will have nothing.  You need to measure between A1 and a known ground.
2.  This leads me to think that you have loss of power.
3. Not likely
4. Are you sure that you have checked the proper beaker that feeds the water pump relay. On our coach that breaker not only feeds water pump relay but also the fill valve relay.
Those silver pins on the relay hold it together. Some coaches the relay is held on by the wires, some by Velcro, some even have a tray that they are clipped into. From your 1st. pic yours may have a spring clip holding it into the tray. It is hard to tell because we are on the road and don't have a big screen to give a good look and see.

Mike

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #33 –
Thanks Mike,
What breaker am I looking for??? Roger told me about B29 cb on the board. Is there another breaker? Where do I look?? maybe the fix !!??

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #34 –
Glen, behind the white panel.

Water pump breaker is the bottom right side.  Test wire B29 on the post to the left side of the bus bar.  Should be 12 v.  This powers both relays.

The latching relays are helld on with double stick tape.  Use a thin flat bar or scraper and carefully pull then off.  The two relays are probably stuck to each other the same way.  On my coach and likely yours the outside relay is for the fill valve and the inside relay is for the water pump. 

The wires are held in by small Philips head screws.

Press the button to latch (red indicator) or release t(no red indicator) the relay.

+12 volts goes into A1 and 1.  When the relay is latched the two wires coming out of 2 will be 12v.  One goes to the indicator lamps and the other goes to the pump or fill valve)

The green wire  connected to A2 is the external trigger.  A momentary connection to ground latches or releases the relay.  There will be continuity from this connection to ground only when the momentary button is pushed.  You can check continuity from here to one side of the switch and from the other side of the switch to the common ground bar in the space at the foot of the bed.

If there is power at the A1 and 1 side of the relay and you latch the relay manually there will be power at the 2 terminal, your fill valve will clunk and lights will be on at the fill valve switches.  Same with the pump relay.

It is very unlikely that both relays failed at the same time.  If you have power on the 2 post when the relay is latched but no fill or pump then you have a pair of broken wires, also unlikely.

Follow the 12 volts.


Re: Pump Switch

Reply #35 –
 Roger.....you rock !!! will look at it this weekend. Thanks, much.

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #36 –
Update:
The B29 cb is tripped.
When I press the reset button on the cb,
It pops back out
With my limited knowledge, that means:
1) bad cb. Where would I get one and what is the replacement proceedure?. Do I have to undo and remove the copper buss bar?
Or 2) a short somewhere. Since I recently r/r'd the bedroom flooring, there is a POSSIBLE spot where I pin nailed quarter round under the drawer stack. There are ac ducts above the floor there, so this is unlikely....????? BUT I don't know if I can jump the cb to hot wire the latch switch, or what??!!!
When I hit the reset AND the manual latch switch for BOTH pump and fill, I heard a distant clunk. Hope this turns out to be an easy fix

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #37 –
I would , first unhook the load, ie the wire going to the  circuit breaker and reset the breaker .. if the breaker resets , then you know the breaker is good... I would disconnect the  pump wire from the relay, if after resetting the breaker, if you have 12 volts at the relay after pressing the button on the relay, I would suggest checking fuse at the pump, if no fuse is present, un hook power from the pump, reset breaker , have some one push the button on relay and check for voltage at pump wire, it should be min of 12volts.. if you have
12 volts I would think the water pump has failed. Circuit breakers rarely fail, the latching relay sometimes fail, but a fuse at the pump, or the pump is more likely...in my humble opinion.

Safe travels,
Dave




Re: Pump Switch

Reply #38 –
Under coach today
I disconnected load side of both latch switches
The CB held AND the buttons on the latch switches held
I pressed each external switch
Each one lit up....for 2 seconds... then tripped both CB and latch
I do not see any fuse or reset at the pump
I do not know what to do next

Re: Pump Switch

Reply #39 –
Have you followed Dave's directions?