Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Battery Isolator or auto combiner? (Read 1397 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #25 –
Bob,

We have an LED in the kitchen in our 12v monitor panel that lights up when BlueSea is combining. Also have separate volt meters for house & start bank, all to keep us informed on our 12-volt world.

In addition, we power Blue Sea start isolation feature with ignition (not start) so we don't combine when engine alternator is charging.

As far as our previous discussion, Blue Sea will stop combining (it will open its relay) when battery voltage drops below its specified set point. Which in our coach, based upon the charger's profile, when house battery bank gets too warm (about 90 degrees) charger's float voltage lowers to about 13 volts to prevent damaging batteries.

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #26 –
As stated before, I am tossing around getting a auto combiner instead of replacing the isolator I have.
In viewing it again today (see pics) the right side of the isolator is actually coming apart!
So I guess I should get to it.. but another question arises. The unit below confuses me as to what it is. I presume I will have to replace it as well, but do not know what it is. Any help would be great!
I think the cables are ok  (with a little brushing)
Peter
Peter    Alberta Canada
'98 U320 40'  Build 5359 M11 450 HP, Aqua hot, Blu Ox

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #27 –
That is the boost solenoid and if it works not necessary to change.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #28 –
Barry I talked with my guru and he mentioned that the blue seas does not disconnect until 12.75 or 12.6 volts.

The location of the combiner at a distance from the batteries induces a voltage drop.  The combiner is seeing the lower voltages hence the disconnect.  I am thinking the cabling from the batteries to the combiner is not 4.0 marine fine strand cabling?  We may need to see what's actually used.  If we want our combiners to work in hot weather we may need to run better cabling to the combiner.

Stands to reason as blue seas is a marine unit and long cable runs to the combiner would be unusual.

Can you see for us what size cabling did Foretravel use from the battery area to the isolator/combiner?
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Battery Isolator or auto combiner?

Reply #29 –
Bob, you could be correct. After being combined, specs show it will disconnect after falling to 12.75v.

Specs for our Blue Sea SI-ACr:

Combine 30 sec 13.6V @ 12 V

Combine 90 sec 13.0V @ 12 V

Open 10 sec      12.35V @ 12 V

Open 30 sec      12.75V @ 12 V

I installed our Blue Sea combiner to heavy battery direct cables at the top of our bay wall 12-volt panel. Combiner is mountedright next to the bay wall panel under the white cover.

My observations are when battery temp is about 90 degrees, the combine LED light is off and house voltage shows about 12.9 volts. I don't think much about the disconnection as we also have a Trik-L-Start to keep start bank under some charge.

Our house are two 8D GELL, start three red-top AGM and both banks seem to last over 10 years. Our Xantrex inverter charger has a custom setting to adjust voltages and temp-voltage coefficient, which I changed. Most chargers do not allow this adjustment and have pre-set coefficients for each profile.

BTW, my previous mention about having ignition tied to Blue Sea Start-Isolation terminal to prevent combining does flash the inside LED lamp.